I may not be fawked after all!!

[romer]

I may not be fawked after all.

First, Special thanks to Shawn (Magoo), Ige(FJSRULE) and Mike (Treeroot)

If you forgot my original saga here it is:

/forum/toyota-land-cruiser/256485-i-think-im-fawked-engine-siezed.html

Essentially, when I put my new Dizzy in I did not tighten the screw down and most likely, the Dizzy worked its way out of the oil pump causeing the engine to sieze.

Mike offered to help me by swapping the block from one of 3 engines he had, but after doing a compression check it seemed that they were all a little tired. We decided to go take the oil pan off my engine and see how bad the damage was (Should have listened to pin head earlier).

Took off the #5 Rod bearing and cap and the engine was no longer seized. I.e. we could now push it and make the motor turn. The bearings had pits. 1,2,3 and 6 looked good. #4 was stuck and we elected to take that off another day when the weather was better

It looks like all that is needed may be to emory cloth the crank and buy new bearings. Need to make sure they are the right size.

Shawn did most of the work at Ige’s. While I performed my management function and watched with Ige while we drank Beer. I did suggest moving the 40 to try and break #5 free. That’s what did it and unstuck the motor. We know that was the problem. We just need to get # 4 off to make sure the crank is not damaged.

Shawn, Ige and Mike are great people and I value more the opportunity to get to know each of them better.

Hopefully, I will be posting the weekend that the rig is done and back up and running.

We received one tip from Ige’s friend Steve, to put the DUI dizzy in before the oil pan, tighten down the screw and make sure the oil pump is moving.

Ken

[Cruiser Ken]

Fawk yeah, that's great news. Cruiser people are just as cool as the rigs they drive.

[SpaceGhost]

nuff said?

[climbermike]

Good deal Romer, especially the part about you managing it while pounding the #6.

[romer]

Thanks Mikey, spaceghost and Cruiser ken. I thought since my last attempt at real work actually got me in this position, that management and tool, beer and pizza gofer was my best suited position. Still trying to watch close enough to learn.

[FJBen]

kick ass, they seemed like really cool people at the swap meet. Glad to hear it's going better for ya. Mike musta really got that Orion installed quick if he can help others

[treerootCO]

Originally Posted by FJBen

kick ass, they seemed like really cool people at the swap meet. Glad to hear it's going better for ya. Mike musta really got that Orion installed quick if he can help others

They won't let me have an Orion, all they say when you call advanced is something about their precious. Then they just make strange noises into the phone. Get her back on the road Ken and call if you need anything.

[romer]

The Piston Bearings for #2 and #5 were both bad. The rest of them were fine. No guages were found o the crank. We took an emory cloth to the crank and only bearing material came off. Now nice and smooth. Ordered new bearings yesterday, will have to wait until next week to ge them.

We were confused for a while because the bearings had stamped on them 010 and this did not correspond to any standard 2F bearing sizes. Someone finally told us that that means 010 over which is the same as .25.

The scrapping and gauges in the bearings ended up covering the oil hole with metal. Engine seems to move freely now (by hand) with no noises. Will have to wait until we install new bearings next week, but it is looking real good.

Good thing it was only idling in my garage!

[TLCObsession]

If there is any metal from the bearings transferred to the crank, use muriatic acid to remove if before you try the emory cloth. This works amazingly well on small engines - I have never had to do it on a car engine though.

[romer]

There was bearing material on the crank and we used 180 grit emery cloth already. Its nice and smooth.

[Cruzzr]

My experience with "bearings gone bad" required machining the crank again. I would highly recommend while it is still down to take a micrometer and check the surface on the bad ones against the good ones. Go all the way around the curface 360 degrees. You should find it warped! I have seen 6 blocks in my lifetime like this. If you don't, you'll get it all bolted back up and then start it up and after 200 miles you'll notice this noticeable ticking noise coming from the engine. Within 500 miles it will be REAL loud knocking noise. If you don't trust what I am saying, take your bearings down to your local engine rebuilder and show him those bearings and tell him the motor was locked up till you removed them. Also tell him your oil passages on the crank were clogged. See what he says. Without prompting him he will tell you to bring in the crank and turn it again. I Guarantee! I have seen this to 6-4x4 blocks. I have done exactly what you have done once by cleaning it up and putting it back on. After the first time I always went all the way down to the crank and had it turned it again.

Just cause you use emory cloth on the surface and make it smooth doesn't mean it isn't warped. The surface of a crank is like the surface of a brake rotor. It doesn't look warped until you put a tool to it to test it like a lathe or a micrometer....sometimes you can't see it on a mic either so you have to put it on a lathe.

I truly hate to sound like an ass and say I'm right but I also would hate to see you go through all the work and put it back in and do it AGAIN!

Good luck whatever you decide

[romer]

Thanks, we will check on that. I have heard also from several people who had the same thing happen and just replaced the bearings with no further problems. I am hoping since I was just idling in my garage and there was no real load or high torque on the engine that it will be fine. It did not sieze while it was running, it just wouldn't turn the next time I tried to starte it.

Nevertheless, your advice is appreciated and we will check that.

Thanks,

Ken

[ranger]

Originally Posted by Cruzzr

My experience with "bearings gone bad" required machining the crank again. I would highly recommend while it is still down to take a micrometer and check the surface on the bad ones against the good ones. Go all the way around the curface 360 degrees. You should find it warped! I have seen 6 blocks in my lifetime like this. If you don't, you'll get it all bolted back up and then start it up and after 200 miles you'll notice this noticeable ticking noise coming from the engine. Within 500 miles it will be REAL loud knocking noise. If you don't trust what I am saying, take your bearings down to your local engine rebuilder and show him those bearings and tell him the motor was locked up till you removed them. Also tell him your oil passages on the crank were clogged. See what he says. Without prompting him he will tell you to bring in the crank and turn it again. I Guarantee! I have seen this to 6-4x4 blocks. I have done exactly what you have done once by cleaning it up and putting it back on. After the first time I always went all the way down to the crank and had it turned it again.

Just cause you use emory cloth on the surface and make it smooth doesn't mean it isn't warped. The surface of a crank is like the surface of a brake rotor. It doesn't look warped until you put a tool to it to test it like a lathe or a micrometer....sometimes you can't see it on a mic either so you have to put it on a lathe.

I truly hate to sound like an ass and say I'm right but I also would hate to see you go through all the work and put it back in and do it AGAIN!

Good luck whatever you decide

I agree totally!

[TLCObsession]

Originally Posted by romer

There was bearing material on the crank and we used 180 grit emery cloth already. Its nice and smooth.

180 is very coarse in the world of bearing surfaces... You need to polish it...

But like the others are saying, I would check it. I would propose a different method: I used a dial indicator with a magnetic base to check my 2F when I did the bearings. You can check the crank journal surface in about 20 seconds this way. Mine was out of round by less than a thou.

Jim

[Pin Head]

If it's broken, taking the pan off and checking it out won't make it any more broken.

If the crank journal is round, not taperedand the clearance is within specs, then you are good to go. You don't want to leave that 180 grit fininsh on the journal. Polish it to 600 to 1200 silicon carbide using paint thinner as a cutting fluid. If the journal is out of spec, then you need to pull it and have the crank ground. No big deal.