transfer case shifter?

[onetimer]

is there a way to change my 71 fj40 tranfer case to a direct shift instead of this pull knob type? if there is a way- where do I find whats needed?- incase you coudnt tell- yes I'm new to this stuff and dont know the proper terms!!

[chef]

Yes there is. Take the vacuum shift pod of the front drive nose cone on your case, and replace it with later model direct shift stuff. Easy, bolt on mod...

[onetimer]

is there any type of adjusting on this "pull knob to engage" system?

[Cruiser Nerd]

For the engagement there is no adjustment, it's vacuum operated. The pull knob is just operating the three way vacuum switch on the firewall, which directs vacuum to the goesinta or goesoutta side of the diaphragm actuator on the transfer nose cone. You either have a vacuum leak or something frozen, if it's not working. Pretty simple if you're willing to dig in.

Personally, I'd keep the vacuum setup. But that's just me.

[jnau99]

I took my vacume part off and cut it apart. inside I just drilled a hole in it and made some linkage. Works fine, I would sitll like one off a factory manual because my seeps a little. Had if for over a year and works great.

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Onetimer.. The trucks gotta be running for the vacuum stuff to work.

[onetimer]

this one does run- its just a yard truck for now

[tornadoalleycruiser]

check the shaft on the tcase. If it's frozen then there's no hope. Might lie under there and see if it moves back and forth. If not then might yank off the vacuum engagement module and see if everything is free. I've engaged and disengaged em by sucking on the hose (Insert Joke here Junky) under the truck..

[Cruiser Nerd]

Originally Posted by tornadoalleycruiser

I've engaged and disengaged em by sucking on the hose (Insert Joke here Junky) under the truck..

I've done that. Thankfully there were no digital cameras back then...... flat on my back under the 40 sucking on a hose.....

[tornadoalleycruiser]

if it's frozen it can be freed but probably best to pull the whole assembly off the tcase beforehand, Lube it up really well with penetrant oil, let soak, then see if you can get it to move back and forth. I think it's 4 bolts to pull the assembly off but it has been a while.
But.. exactly what is the problem? Is it not engaging or you just want a direct shift assembly instead? There are merits to both assemblies and I have a mixture of both on my trucks.. I actually like the vacuum assembly better.

[onetimer]

the problem is it wasnt going into 4wd and when i pull it into low range- the low range lever keeps bypassing the "FD" knob and hanging things up- once I fix the low range lever and place the nipple in the proper position- it still didnt go into 4wd- (this sounds more confusing than it truely is).... and I dont think anything is locked up- as it was working a couple weeks ago

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Low range and FD are 2 different beasts.. The LowRange is a cable operated on mine not vacuum.
Can you just do the 4wd part? And try applying vacuum under the truck and watching the piston move. You might have a hole in the vacuum hose? Or a blown diaphram in the FD Mechanism. Diagnose and report back. If it's a yard truck, I"d just leave it in 4wd and call it good.. I have a local guy down here that has a 64 FJ40 on a ranch that hasn't seen the pavement in at least 20 years..
But fixing the problem might be easier than replacing the parts with something different like direct shift.

[onetimer]

I agree- its going to be put in 4wd and that will be that- but for the project truck- can you tell me pros and cons to both means of shifting in and out of 4wd?
the low and high range are working fine-

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Mainly preference. Pushbutton 4wd or vacuum actuated is nice but some don't like the "I Have No Idea If It's In 4" type of feeling. But you can push the button or flip the lever and let it engage or disengage when the driveline is out of a bind by itself. The manual is just that, Manual.. Sometimes it will be in a bind and you have to reverse, go forward, reverse, go forward etc to get it to shift out of 4wd..
I have 2 trucks with vacuum, one with manual. I like the vacuum myself.
To convert you'd have to mount a lever on the side of the tranny, cut a hole in the floor, acquire the parts and mount everything to go to the full manual style. I'd leave the floor shift 4wd manual conversion till later in your project. Do the fun stuff first, then if you so feel the desire to have the manual shifting Tcase or feel it's necessary then covert it over. Both styles achieve the same result.. Putting the truck in 4wd the only difference is how the result is achieved.
Converting a non-vacuum actuated truck to a vacuum actuated truck is much harder than going to Manual from Vacuum..
Many of the Vacuum actuated 4wd trucks have a light that comes on when it's in 4wd. My 1988 and my 1964 both do so I am just leaving those the way they are until they break and I run out of spare parts. Do the fun stuff like paint, lift, tires, powersteering, disk brakes, roll bar, upholstery, stereo first. But, I'm kinda an "if it aint' broke don't fix it until you perceive a need" type of guy..
If it were my truck, I'd start with brakes, a power steering system, then rest of the truck.. Safety and steering are higher on my list than if it engages into 4wd. Hope that helped and confused you!

[65SWB45]

One thing Erik didn't mention is the noise. The vacuum shift adds no road noise to your rig, while the early floorshifts are noisy as HELL!

I too once considered a floorshift. $ORs price slowed me way down. Then I bought a parts rig that had a floorshift, and talked myself into waiting until I had a second one for spare parts. By the time I got a second shifter, I had already ridden in enough other people's cruisers with them to know that I couldn't and wouldn't put up with that kind of noise if I didn't have to.

Bob Brewer helped me 'fix' the non-functioning diaphram on mine back at Dusy-Ershim 1986, and it has not given me a problem since.

Quiet is good.

[onetimer]

well- thanks for all the input- and after crawling under the truck today- it was easy to figure out the problem- a loud hissing under the passenger floor- and (I know this is hard to believe) rust had eaten away the vacuum line- after being under the truck- I also realized how easy the entire vacuum system is- now I'm not so afraid of the unknown-because it isnt unknown anymore-as for the project- we'll have to wait and see- I'm a long way from that step- thanks again!!!!

[Cruiser Nerd]

Onetimer-
I had a similar problem with one of mine ..... rust had eaten the body supports and what was left of the floor killed the lines.

Did you check your PM's regarding the locals? Or just check out the links under my signature.

[onetimer]

yes- I've checked out the links- thank you-I'm sure you'll hear from me again as I start the project truck.......thanks again