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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6569
Location: Tahoe City,Ca.
Posts: 4,029
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clutch master question
What's the correct way to bleed a replacement clutch master? I got the master not with the hose and slave already attached.
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Team FOH# 321 Thanks to the people making it happen Weathertight,Polyperformance,CTM Racing Products,Levrett Transmission,BFGoodrich Tires,Kickass Offroad,Reid Racing,West Coast Differentials,Wide Open Design |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I always opened it up and let it flow a bit to let most of the air out then pumped the system like a brake job..
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Member # 34756
Posts: 1,464
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Some masters cylinders do ok with just gravity and a few slow pumps while keeping the reserviors full, but many need bench bleeding which can usually be done on the vehicle if the master cyl sits fairly level. The replacement master cyls I've purchased came with a bench bleeding kit, also avail at parts stores. 2 man job on the vehicle. Lemme see if I can do this:
A. Clamp master in vise, not by body, by bracket (if bench bleeding). B. Remove brake lines from master cyl (if bleeding master on vehicle). 1. Attach the bench bleeding kit fittings to the master ports. 2. Slip the hoses on the fittings. 3. Stick the open hose ends under the reserviors' level to keep air from going back up the open hose ends. One hose in each reservior for the respective port involved. C. Use wood dowel/brass punch to push piston in on master and hold (if bench bleeding) or, 4. Push the brake pedal and hold (if on vehicle–Doh!). 5. Pinch the hoses closed with fingers. 6. Release the brake pedal or dowel/brass punch. 7. Release finger clamp on hoses. 8. Repeat steps C/4-7 until no air bubbles appear from the end of the hoses which should indicate that no air is in each piston throw. D. Install master cyl (if bench bled) or, 9. Once installed or if installed thruout bleeding, detach one fitting and push the brake pedal slowly and hold to make fluid come out of port. 10. While holding brake pedal, quickly thread in & tighten brake line fitting while keeping the reservior full to prevent air from getting down in the piston throws. If fluid did not come out the port, air is likely in the piston throw for that system. May be cause for repeating "bench" bleeding. 11. Repeat steps 9-10 for the other port. 12. Bleed brake furthest from master cyl while keeping reserviors full. 13. Continue bleeding brakes from furthest to closest to master. In case I messed up, take a look at MrFixit methods .
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<>< Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to receive power, and riches, and wisdom, and strength, and honour, and glory, and blessing. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 04-12-2005 at 01:36 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6569
Location: Tahoe City,Ca.
Posts: 4,029
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Thanks guys. Bench bled it then put it in with some pumping and bleeding off at the slave and seems to work better then ever. More excited about no more brake fluid coming down the pedal area/firewall.
__________________
Team FOH# 321 Thanks to the people making it happen Weathertight,Polyperformance,CTM Racing Products,Levrett Transmission,BFGoodrich Tires,Kickass Offroad,Reid Racing,West Coast Differentials,Wide Open Design |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6569
Location: Tahoe City,Ca.
Posts: 4,029
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I wish we had a camera battery working of me pulling it out of the shop, park lock on in the front SMOKIN 44 TSL's in second in two high with the arb on.
__________________
Team FOH# 321 Thanks to the people making it happen Weathertight,Polyperformance,CTM Racing Products,Levrett Transmission,BFGoodrich Tires,Kickass Offroad,Reid Racing,West Coast Differentials,Wide Open Design |
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