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Old 08-10-2005, 04:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tard Jeep questions

As most of you know I am a tard. One of my Land Cruiser customers is in Bagdad while I resto his truck. His boss, a Full bird also in Bagdad, asked me to help him out on his Jeep. I said yes cuz I am a tard. I know just about nothing about Jeeps 'cept they suck. Getting past that, I need some help and...........one of our guys getting shot at needs some help.

Here is the deal:
1996 100% stock JEEP. I "think" it has D30 ft and D35 rear. It may have D20(?) front and D30(?) rear. I dont even know what to look for to tell the difference

HE is not hardcore. He wants to wheel with his family and go hunting. His goal is 33" tires, ft lunchbox and RR oxlok with a 4" "long arm" lift. I have no fucking idea what this "arm" deal is. They have long arm, short arms and no arms! Doesnt matter; long arm it is. We will also do the slip yoke elimanator (that is a fucked design!) and a rear CV. He wants ft locking hubs (duh!!!!!) and convert it to 5 on 5.5 from 4 on 5.5 wheels. I am not exactly sure what this is all about either so edmacate me. Also wants to regear to 4:10

A semi-local JEEP shop made a few suggesstions:

Upgrade the front axle (assuming it is a D30) using cro-mo shafts and some other magic. I supply the Aussie locker and they provide locking hubs with the 5 on 5.5 conversion, re gearded, cro-mo, magic and Aussie installed. $1900 dealer with me giving them the axle and getting it back ready to install. Same basic plan with a D44 around $2600.

Get a new D44 rear with shafts to work with the 5 on 5.5. WIll need new brakes so rear disk, regeared with OxLok installed. $2100 turnkey.

Lift prices seem to be around $1550 for the "long arm" and the rest of the crap is all off the shelf.

The axles seem really 'spensive to me but I dont know where to go to get a better deal or if this is a good deal. Would I be better off to get a D44 front? Remember this truck will ONLY see 33"s and never be wheeled hard.

I want opinions about the plan, if the prices are OK or too high and if any one out there wants to build this crap for me and just let me pay you or if you know a good shop I can get with for a better deal.

Thanx Butch! More I thought about our conversation the more I thought I should post this.
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It should be a d30 front and d35 rear.
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Dave,

Had a similar situation with a friend and his daughter's TJ some time back. I actually went to the Jeep board and searched and queried. Got good results and her TJ was built for a reasonable cost. Porc down there in Atlanta is a Rubicon Express vendor as well as a PBB vendor and has the absolute bottom line prices on their products, one of which is a long arm kit for the factory four link. REs stuff was highly regarded on that board. I'm assuming a '96 is a TJ (round headlights, coil springs?)

Aren't those some cute little axles?

I still spend WAY too much time strapping that POS though!

Kent

Last edited by Rat70FJ; 08-10-2005 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If it were me I would go with the Ford 8.8 in the rear, close to the same width and the late models came with disk brakes, you can get them brand new for 400.00, for the long arms, RE setup or look for a clayton kit, as for the front, stay with the 30, get a locker, ARB or on the cheep side a lockrite and wheel it for a while, then buy a toyota.... Just look at TFab's rig, I hear he's still running a d30 in the front.....

Last edited by vonzipper; 08-10-2005 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vonzipper
If it were me I would go with the Ford 8.8 in the rear, close to the same width and the late models came with disk brakes,.....
I told him this on the phone, done several for my Jeep buds.
And the bolt pattern even matchs.
Butch
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I told him this on the phone, done several for my Jeep buds.
And the bolt pattern even matchs.
Butch
I believe ya! Tell me where to buy it. I did read that i will need to get a fab kit to make it fit the Jeep frame (?)

Tell ya what; buy one, weld the spring crap on it and sell it to me!
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Old 08-10-2005, 08:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I got one from Green leaf auto recyclers in texas, dont forget to weld the tubes to the housing
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Old 08-10-2005, 08:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Aren't those some cute little axles?
Sorry, just lurking here, but that's become one of my favorite lines when I start talking to some Jeeper...

Nial (former Jeepster Commando owner)
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Old 08-10-2005, 09:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Geeze David.........

Put an H55 in it and go from there...


D-
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't think there were any 96s. The YJ (square headlight) stopped production in 96. The first TJs (round head light, coil springs) were 97s. Lots of the 97s had Dana 44 rears, All had Dana 30 fronts. TJ 30s had much larger U-joints in the knuckles than YJ 30s. 297x vs. 260x.

And yes, I learned all this before I grew up and graduated to Cruisers.
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Woody told me to step in and offer some assistance. I'll send you a PM with some info. OH yeah, Wood say's you are a Tard.
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Warn used to make axle kit you can convert to fulll flooters and 5 on5.5 bolt pattern.. front and rear ... BUT I also wouldnt waste money on those axles like that .... if he isnt hard core just gear and lock em and let him try it out ...If he gose hard core he will toss it all anyway .... if he want to go hard core look into Currie 9in houseing those prices you put up ar more that half way there anyway also the 96 is right ... so if it square head lights or round ???
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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96 should be the first year of the TJ, coils and such...for a moderate/very light wheeling I wouldn't go with the Long Arm...the TJ's are capable enough with lockers and a standard lift, 3.5" Rubicon Express is usually what my friends get.

Old Man Emu makes a lift for TJ's as well that would get you into the 33" range. The front with a little beef, the Super 30 Kit, from superior axles will make that axle good with 33's....but doesn't give you hubs...the Warn "30 Uprade is like from the knuckles out and gives you hubs. A combo between the two and you are golden. The rear...ditch it and put in an 8.8. My friend is going this route and can get a new 8.8, with TJ brackets for 1,200 with discs. If you want I can ask him where he gets that from.

Ask me how I know this stuff...have to hear about all the breaking!!! lol

Get the slip yoke eliminator, a 1" motor mount lift and put a flat skid plate on it. With those, mild lift, lockers and 33 it should be fairly capable...and a little more reliable.
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Old 08-11-2005, 09:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Vonzipper is on the money. Rear 8.8 is a stout axle that is close to the correct width and correct bolt pattern. You can get them with 4.10s and also rear discs; Just make sure to truss it, they have issues with the axle tubes moving around. They come on Exploders and f150s I think.

Don't waste money converting a d30 to hubs, if he wants hubs get him a d44 or a toyota front (wrong drop?) The none hub design makes for 5 min axle changes Its like 3 bolts the caliper and the big spindle nut. With 297 u-joints the axles are surprisingly tough, Iím not sure what stock inner axle is a good one but my buddy ran his d30 for a long time on 37s and the carrier was the weak link, which he did finally break and is now done with the d30. He has it under a ZJ with v8. I havenít ever seen an 8.8 fail.

Remeber to tell him if he breaks a front axle and doesnít have a spare to remember to put the stub shaft (read: outer axle) back in, the uni-bearing is deceiving. Without the stub he will drive 50ft and his wheel will fall off.

Another option is to go with a high pinion d30 off an 80s XJ I believe. Some came with 4.56s, I think Comancheís had high pinion d30s with 4.56s but I could be mistaken. It is a direct bolt up. That should take care of the ring and pinion issue as high pinion is normally 40% stronger

Stock sudo high steer arms and Xover steering is available off something, I doesnít remember off the top of my head. Bigger TREs too if Iím not mistaken.

I would say that the claton kit is the way to go, not RE.

I'm a Toyota guy through and through but I know a thing or two about this silly matchbox Heeps, my buddies have them. POSs. whatever, wheel what you got.
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Old 08-11-2005, 12:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have no clue about jeeps but saw these adds on another board and thought they might be of some interest.

http://www.caos4x4.com/cmbs/index.php?topic=2380.0

http://www.caos4x4.com/cmbs/index.php?topic=2387.0

I'm of no help otherwise.
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Old 08-11-2005, 12:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The high pinion 30 is a good front axle and holds up faily well. I ran 37's on mine for years and even ran a comp on it. I was in Pro Mod not stock class. My goal in that comp was to break a 30 shaft and I couldn't do it.
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Old 08-11-2005, 01:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The D30 is miss-understood....LOL

Derek, Were your front tires even touching the ground??
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Old 08-11-2005, 02:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The D30 is miss-understood....LOL

Derek, Were your front tires even touching the ground??
You meen like this. http://www.off-road.com/rock/2005xrra/may05/
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Old 08-11-2005, 09:37 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Let me get this straight? 5th gear, flat on the floor, Can I ask what you were thinking at that moment....LOL Had you ever saved it before? or was it a revalation and just sounded good at the time.....


Scott

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Old 08-12-2005, 06:05 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Why not just part it out and build the guy a cruiser?
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Old 08-12-2005, 06:50 AM   #21 (permalink)
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if he is going mild...personally I would see no sense in putting a long arm and 4" lift...with 33's it's prolly gonna look even stupider than it already does

Save the guy some money and you some headache...2 to 3" lift...33's, 8" rear, lockers...plenty for the type of wheeling he is doing...unless it's one of those...look at all the neat stuff my heep has that I don't use.
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Old 08-12-2005, 12:12 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Pay Bailey to go up to PullaPart and snag a couple D44s out of a Waggy at about ~$100 an axle. You get the locking hubs he's looking for, and a matching bolt pattern, plus the strength. I just don't see a Warn hub conversion and alloy shafts in a Dana 30 being anything other than a waste of money.

What would be cool is going with a Waggy 44 front and a Toy 8" rear with the factory elocker. They've got the same bolt pattern and if I were to do it again, I would probably go that route, as opposed to running an 8.8 with custom shafts like I am now.

I wondered what that TJ had been sitting outside your shop for.
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Old 08-13-2005, 02:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Heeper who are you? Thanx for the replies. I think I have a plan.
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Old 08-13-2005, 05:07 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dd113
Heeper who are you? Thanx for the replies. I think I have a plan.
I have the black grand cherokee. Bailey and I wheel along with some other local folks. I wanted to go to the cabin about a month back but I had to work. I'm interested to see how the wrangler turns out..

Cam
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Old 08-13-2005, 10:08 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I have the black grand cherokee. Bailey and I wheel along with some other local folks. I wanted to go to the cabin about a month back but I had to work. I'm interested to see how the wrangler turns out..

Cam
I would be interested in you working on the POS. Call or stop by if ya wanna work.

Bailey; did he tell you about choir tour?
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