I don't have the big $$ to buy a real locker so I'm thinking of welding the rear, instead of putting in a locker. But since it's my daily driver I would like to know how it handles onroad? Anyone have experience with this, let me know.
The "search" button is for wussies!! :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
Mine handles OK for daily driving. If you don't mind the chirping tires. At least it is predictable, unlike the cheesey-locker I had before. That son of a bitch would unload at the most unforeseen times and launch me into another lane or onto the shoulder.
Thats what ever one has told me GlonDark, but what is the right way? I know Nolen says to weld the spider gears together and not to the case....I think, correct me if I'm wrong. But if you weld the spider gears together, and to the case wouldn't it be even stronger? I'm just listing possable ideas.
I've also been told that driving a welded diff. on road will weaken the axle...like a paperclip, if you keep turning it, it will brake.
I want to know to, because I'm thinking of doing it also...
On dry pavement with good tires you will be putting lots of stress on your axle ends. On loose dirt this isn't a problem but on pavement you will be trying to break your axles off. In turns both tires will turn the same and one or both will break loose and chirp or scream, I hope your neighbors and the police don't mind the noise. Mike :fj: :jeep2:
No problem welding the spiders to the case, but then if you want to un-do the mod, you are screwed.
Also, you need a stick welder due to the fact you will be welding two different types of metal together.
I think it is best to use 8 welds. All 8 points where the spiders meet and fry it in there good!
Mine survived my torture for a year and are still going strong in another rig.
If both axles are turning together always, there is not "paperclip" action. They turn together and don't move. Yes they chirp, but I would rather hear that than that aweful sound of the locker letting go! *PING*
I agree with nolen, Weld just the gears together. I have my third member on my work bench, I will snap some pics tonight and send em down to you. I only welded the spider gears and left the case alone. Works great too.
Yeah you will be causing extra stress on the axles. But the only way to get around that is to put an ARB in the rear, and I don't know about you, but no matter how hard I try, I just can't make $1000 appear out of nowhere. Any locker will act the same as a welded rear end if you are giving it gas in a turn. It's designed to lock up.
If both axles are turning together always, there is not "paperclip" action. They turn together and don't move. Yes they chirp, but I would rather hear that than that aweful sound of the locker letting go! *PING*
Auto lockers (Detroit, Lockrite, etc.) will ratchet the outside wheel in a turn while giving it gas as long as both wheels have traction. If you give it enough gas so that one tire starts slipping, then they lock. They are designed to lock when one or more tire slips; otherwise the faster tire ratchets. Neither tire can go slower than the ring gear, but only 1 tire can go faster.
Auto lockers (Detroit, Lockrite, etc.) will ratchet the outside wheel in a turn while giving it gas as long as both wheels have traction. If you give it enough gas so that one tire starts slipping, then they lock. They are designed to lock when one or more tire slips; otherwise the faster tire ratchets. Neither tire can go slower than the ring gear, but only 1 tire can go faster.
i have run a welded rear for the last month with 35s and my airlocker is out getting repaired (new crown and pinion) and its STILL getting repaired, i broke the first welded when i welded all 8 spots like nolan said, but i used stainless stick, next i cut a plate, and dropped that across teh spiders.
............SPIDER
SPIDER............SPIDER
............SPIDER
(when i look at this its perfectly how i put it, then when i press update post, its back to looking crap) not to worry i have filled it with fullstops
my plate just went across all four and i filled it with weld, then i flipped back onto the rear and filled all the little cracked welds again
performance offroad SUPER
on road, i dont mind it, cornering at low speed is cool and high speed is pretty cool
its when you just take off and do a sharp corner you'll need to gas it, because it just sucks the power, and with a 4 cylinder diesel you may stall it
weld just the spiders, if you hate it, shell the bones on an airlocekr (it replaces your spiders anyways) make sure you weld it after registration, cause, legally you cant run a welded diff over here, not sure about yours!
BAHAHA You said it man. God/Engineers made that extra umph for a reason. Why have it and not use it?? But I still say that regardless of "How much gas" you are giving it, it locks up. My Cruiser and my bronco did the same thing.
Example....turning into parking lot, easy on the gas and as soon as I would let off "BANG" the locker would unlock. Detroit said this was "Normal" operation. And I am sorry, something that loud and that scary sound ain't normal!!
I got my new 27 spline pinion, new traction bar and a heavy right foot just ready to try it out this weekend!! Look out cause pinion boy is on the trail!
with a 4 cylinder diesel (not rebuilt) and no big mother turbo to sool up, then he aint gunna break traction on the street, unless he hooks into a corner and picks a wheel up. in which case, itll try and turn over if welded
Thats the way I'm leaning...I wish I could make the $$$ apear and just go for front and rear ARBs, but I'm praying on to hae enough for the front one...
They hardly like the cruiser, why would they like the noise
I like it noisy:flipoff2: wish I had some boggers to help....that 1F sound like a aircraft carrier starting up...
Thanks
:laughing: I tried welding mine similar to that. And broke it on the first "test trip" out. Not enough weld there in my opnion. Once I post pics of the way I welded my third member, you will see what i mean. :evil:
Please post the pics, as I have just welded mine very similar to what the 14 bolt pics look like... I guess I'll wait for it to frag my entire rear diff and then weld it solid...
I guess it matters how much "git" you got in your rig... I don't think a TBI 2F has too much of that...
I'll post pics later so y'all can laugh at me... :flipoff2: :beer:
Please post the pics, as I have just welded mine very similar to what the 14 bolt pics look like... I guess I'll wait for it to frag my entire rear diff and then weld it solid...
I guess it matters how much "git" you got in your rig... I don't think a TBI 2F has too much of that...
I'll post pics later so y'all can laugh at me... :flipoff2: :beer:
betcha its got more git than my diesel on a muddy grassy hill, some rocks combos and a little bit more water and mud, some light towing of other stuck vehicles is about all
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Pirate 4x4
18.7M posts
366.4K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to custom off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, fabrication, drivetrain, and more!