Spring Under

[Spyder]

Ummm, I have a 76' fj-40 and im a high school kid so i have a small budget, really small. I want a lift so i can put on a set of 35's, and I know that off-road a SOA will perform better, but I need to keep it SUA, so lets see some pics of good lookin and functional rigs with SU, I just need some ideas to get me inspired, thanks.

[Flatty]

if you are dealing with a msall budget, go SOA. It is cheaper to do anyway. The SUA kit will run you close to the same in cost. You have to do brake lines with both, you have to do shocks with both. You have to get new tires for both... You save on the new springs, but you spend on getting the front end cut and rotated assuming you want ot set the castor the right way. We have built them both ways, and honestly, I really can't tell the difference in teh castor setup. I say just do the SOA and call it a day.

Dimitri

[WheelingPiazza]

You dont have todo brake lines with a SUA axle you just need to modify your existing hard lines to work. On side is very easy remove a bolt and bend a little, the passenger side is a little more complicated but is very doable.

As far as which is cheaper? I paid 150 for my 4 inch manafre springs.

A SOA if done right would have cost me more money.

Put an email out in the wanted section for lift springs for an FJ40

[Flatty]

Steve, what is your CJ set up with now? Last I checked it was SOA. I have seen people do the 4" springs with a RS up front and some longer shackles in the rear just to clear 35's. All I am saying is you wuold be WAY better off with the SOA than with the SUA, especialyl if you know you are gonna be doing that in the future.

Dimitri

[WheelingPiazza]

Dimitri,

Yes I am SOA on the cj and the FJ will be SOA eventually.

But then again I am not a student, and looking todo things on a budget.

Will he get more benift out of SOA yes but theres a lot of other issues that should be delt with at teh time, and if hes a student and has limited funds then I suggest looking todo a SUA..

For 150 bucks he can get a SUA axle setup and roll with that for a while.

[Spyder]

After reading some of the posts on this subject I think ill try the SUA/SOA combo, I agree that SOA provides more flex, but considering that I cant cut and turn knukles and do precise steering geometry that would cost more, so what if I did a SR and 4 or 2.5 inch springs in the front and a SOA with stock springs for flex in the rear? I know people have had this idea but has anyone done it, any pics?

[TxCruzr]

I am also a student (in HS, your probably in college) and went for the SOA. My brother has a YJ. He had a 4inch SUA lift with 33s. Then wanted 35s so he had to add a little bit bigger shackles and TJ flares. Now he wants a SOA.
I skipped the 33-35 tire jump and SUA-SOA and went straight for the SOA & 35s. I knew that these would be steps in the future so I decided I will spin a few more $$ now and do it, then spend more $$$ and do it later. Just my opinion.
If you do a SUA front and a SOA rear, why not spend a $100 more and SOA the front? Just depends on what all you want to do and what future plans hold, and also on your budget.
Good Luck

Joseph A.

[60seriesguy]

I have a SOA on my own Cruiser, but if you're looking for a budget lift, find a used lift kit out there, put it on, take your truck out there, have fun.

In the last few years, with the explosion of hardcore wheeling coverage, too many people think they need radical trucks to go wheeling. Actually, some of the best wheelers I've ever met are people who started out gradually. Sure, it would be awesome to have an FJ40 like Nolen's, but don't think you *have* to. There will be plenty of time for that in the future!

I know you can do a budget SOA as well, but I am a firm believer that people on tight budgets shouldn't be out doing the crazy stuff. It's not just about having the money to *BUILD* the truck, it's about having the money to pay for the broken parts. Trust me, it adds up quick. By keeping the modifications relatively tame, you can rack up wheeling time without getting yourself into too much trouble.

Just a thought, I guess this doesn't sound like Pirate board advice...

[wngrog]

I rode miles and miles of trails with 35's for about 3 years before I went nuts....

[60seriesguy]

That's what I'm talking about. Too many people out there lately who go from stock rig to quasi-RCAA in a year. They got the rig, but zero experience, lots of potential for a serious screwup.

When I was at the Fall Gathering last year in New Hampshire I saw Junior Nevison wheeling a near-stock FJ40 and was *amazed* at how well he did. It reminded me that 80% of it comes from the driver...

It's been 11 years since I bought my Land Cruiser. When I brought it to the US, 75% of the mileage was *all* offroad. Here's the tire breakdown:

31's ---> 2 years, 30,000 kilometers
32's ---> 4 years, 40,000 kilometers
33's ---> 3 years, 90,000 kilometers
35's ---> 2 years, 30,000 kilometers
37's ---> coming soon, gotta get gears (and a better job) first!

[Spyder]

Thanks guys, still lookin for anyone out there who has done the SUA front SOA rear combo

[reorx]

I'd have to agree: I'm doing the same thing with my 60... I've run it with 31x10.5s for over 2 years, to learn the basics. I finally got to the point that the truck height and tire size became the limiting factor on what I could do.

I'm now moving up to 33s and a 3" lift... We'll see what I learn. Here is my truck after the lift. (I know, yet another white 60)

[peterfj40]

hey im also in high school....i had a sprung under truck and did a couple trips and decieded i wanted to go spring over, so i did the spring over then took it out and put the lift springs back in and the 33's back on...i didnt think i could flex good w/ the lift springs but now that they are broken in a little more and flex good (good enough for me for now) i realized they are not that bad..they handle better in turns, give me more power and acceleration (tire size vs. gear ratio), i probably wouldnt have to make a traction bar for it (yet, if ever), and i didnt have an extra 300 bucks or so for a new long travel front shaft....basically i jumped into the spring over thign way too soon and should have ust kept it sprung under since the beginning...i wasn't ready for the SOA and wont be for a while as i havent gotten used to my truck enough off road sprung under and i'd have a miserable time sprung over....i just didnt really like the spring over, it wasn't for me.. each his own

[Shipwreck]

Why the combo? I haven't done it so take my comments for what they are - my opinion. I have seen guys do this and the main reasoning I've heard is that they eventually want to SOA but can't afford or don't have the skills to do it right now. In most cases they already had the rock catcher shackle reversal in the front with 2.5 in springs and 4" springs in the rear. In order to gain some extra height it is simple enough to trade up to 4" springs in the front and SOA the rear to match the height.
As I see it there are a couple problems with aiming toward this goal when starting from a stock truck.
1. You must first install the commercial shackle reversal in the front. The SOA in the rear nets 5+ to 7+ inches of lift and you will need to match that height in the front. This means the 4" springs in the front along with the reversal kit, unless you want custom 6" SUA lift springs. (comments Nolen?) If you don't weld that means paying someone else to install the kit. If you eventually go SOA in the front you will then have to remove the shackle reversal kit.
2. You will have to buy a set of 4" springs. You might be able to buy two springs, but chances are you can get a cheap set of four from someone on the board for the same price as two.
3. The combination set-up will probably result in unbalanced flex. The Landcruiser front axle will have relatively stiff springs. In order to lift 4" the fronts will not flex like the old flat set of stockers in the rear.
4. You will need to fab up an antiwrap bar for the rear. Axle wrap will become an issue once you go SOA in the rear. Again, if you don't have the skills or equipment to do this yourself you will need to pay someone else.
I agree with the other comments here. Either spend the money to SOA the right way now or if you really are on a tight budget buy a used 4" lift and call it good. Wheel the crap out of it, start buying spare parts with your spare cash, and when you've figured out your wheeling style then decide on the SOA. I'm with Henry and Nolan here, I spent 12 years wheeling with 31",32" and 33" tires on a SUA lift before finally going SOA.
Small steps grasshopper...
ckp

[WheelingPiazza]

See that was my point exactly.

For me theres more to it then just flippingthe spring perches, If your going todo it do it right or dont do it at all.

[Spyder]

Oh but see I was planning on un-even flex, at least I think thats a reason for the combo. You'll get less roll in the front, more comfort than stock SUA with the SR and it outta feel tighter on the front which is good cause thats where the weight is and where it steers from. But u need flex somewhere, and it might as well be where u need it, in the rear, just my thoughts, I still wish someone who has done this would get the &(&* over here to show some experience.

[The Jerk]

ahhhh the good ol days (2.5 years ago) my 76 sprung under 2.5 inches with 33's and arbs! jiMMy

[wngrog]

Originally posted by Spyder
Oh but see I was planning on un-even flex, at least I think thats a reason for the combo. You'll get less roll in the front, more comfort than stock SUA with the SR and it outta feel tighter on the front which is good cause thats where the weight is and where it steers from. But u need flex somewhere, and it might as well be where u need it, in the rear, just my thoughts, I still wish someone who has done this would get the &(&* over here to show some experience.

Guys, don't you remember this kid? He came on the board about 8 months ago saying that all of us that put non-Toyota stuff in our rigs were idiots and the lot. We handed him a ration of shit and he went away.

Now he is back and even after the EXCELLENT explaination that Shipwreck gave him on the cons of doing a 1/2 and 1/2 suspension he STILL argues that his way is better.

Look SPYDER. If you don't want good advise DONT ASK FOR IT!

Otherwise, listen to your elders and learn something.

Go to the For Sale section and find some 4" springs and BE DONE WITH IT!

[rabid]

I have a friend that runs the 1/2 and 1/2, works great, but is totally custom, with 60 series steering, custom shock mounts OME/fj40 hybrid spring packs, SR plus a longer shackle, and a SOA rear with custom leaf packs form a lift pack and some fj40 leafs with a kicker bar.
Add it up (including the $200+ for the SR) lift packs, shocks, etc and you could do an SOA for the same money.
He did all of his own fabricating, including the shock mounts, steering, SOA, etc...and the amount of money that he has could have DEFINATELY put in an SOA.

[MVANDYKE]

Getting back to 60seriesguys point just start wheeling that Cruiser as that is the only way to learn. I started with a shackle lift and 31's and stock everything to now I run sua 4' with the sr and may other up grades. I won't get into why I pick the lift I have, but the point is I ran Rubithon in 92 with the 31's and Rubithon in 96 with the 33's and all the extras and the only real differance for me was how much easier the trail got with power steering and the granny gears. I learned more about wheeling and getting unstuck in the first 3 years with the 31's then I learned since with the 5 1/2'' of lift, lockers, granny gears, v8 and power steering.

Just go Wheeel it!!!!

[woody]

I ran SUA front with a shackle reversal kit and 2.5" springs with the SOA rear on reversed stock springs. Ran like that for one weekend, in the process of prepping for the front SOA. Honestly, it wasn't all that bad. Flex was fine, balance was adequate. I did not have the wrap bar in, and was pretty tame with it. The biggest problem was the rake....the damn thing was 2-3" higher in rear and just looked idiotic. Running 4" front springs with the extra 1/5" of the reversal may have cured that look.

I ran from 1989 until 1994 on 33" tires and re-arched stock springs with trimmed fenderwells - and open diffs. Learned a ton about how to wheel and what the limitations were. Then, I added the SUA lift kit in mid-1995. No major difference in where it went, just taller. Added a rear locker and front limited slip (dummy) and those helped a ton for a year....then the LS wore out.

Finally, broke down and the full SOA, after years and years of swearing I never needed tires larger than 33's or a lift more than 4"....guess every old dog learns something....heh

I currently blame/credit my driving skills on having run stock for so long....really teaches you a lot.

[ginericfj80]

A guy in our club ran a 2.5" spring with a shackle reversal in the front and a SOA rear for a long time. He ran 35s without a problem. He has since converted to stock springs with a SOA on both ends and a shackle reversal without the rock catching hangers. He used stock fixed ends and put them on the front. It rides and drives much nicer now. It seems like a lot of work to do it twice. Personally, I'd go cheap if you were a student and only go with 33s. You can do a lot a wheeling with 33s and stock springs. I think as you get more money you can get into the modifying. It seems to work better this way as you develop your skill. We had a guy who just recently bought a totally decked out rock rig and he rolled it on a 3 plus trail because he didn't know how to drive it. It is just like motorcycles, you don't start with a 1100 for your first bike you start small and work your way up.

[75CRUISER]

im 15 and in highschool and from what ive learned on this board i would go with the 4in sua and 33s. i have stock suspention and 32s and im going to keep it that way for a a few years mainly because i have no money. i also think that learning how far you can push your cruiser after each mod is a good thing, it will keep you from screwing your cruiser up in the long run.

[CruisD64]

My family has several cruisers. One of which has an SOA and this other a 2.5 inch...soon to be 4 inch Skyjacker. The 4 inch used to be on the cruiser with the SOA. If done right, I would say SOA is hands down the best. It flexes more, is a softer ride, is taller(looks badass), and with traction bars and proper precautions can be just as safe. I'm a college student and also on a budget and I have the 4 inch springs already, so thats what I'm going with for now. Go with the 4inch for now because there are much less things to worry about. It can be done in a day and pretty effortlessly. That way you can drive it right away and with the SOA, it may take a few days to have it all done and if your cruiser is your daily driver like mine is, that can be a problem.<br> <br>As far as the brake lines, you dont HAVE to redo them, but if you ask anyone, they'll recommend it. You can get steel braided extended brake lines for like 40 bucks....you can't go wrong. I always say that if you're gonna do it, you may as well spend a little more money and do it right the first time. That way you dont need to worry about anything after its done.
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All I know though is that when I get more cash, I'm going straight to Dmitri's to have an SOA done.
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I know I'm a newbie too, but ok?

[Donald Butcher]

here are some pics of my setup