Family Fun Wagon... my fzj80 camping rig - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Toyota - Land Cruiser
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-24-2010, 10:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Family Fun Wagon... my fzj80 camping rig

Picked up a '94 fzj80 tonight and am looking to build this as a driveable light-duty wheeling rig for family camping. I want to be able to hop in and go. Hoping to keep it simple:

-35's
-Storage
-Bumpers
-Sliders

Pics tomorrow
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-24-2010, 10:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Stage 1: 35's

My plan is to swap some 35 R17 KM2's that are currently on my dodge. I'm planning to go with some 17x8 soft 8's. Question: is 4.5" BS enough? My second question is regarding lift. From searching mud it looks like some are running similar sized tires with a spring swap and perhaps some coil spacers. Looks like metal tech makes some 2" spacers, but mentions caster adjustment. Is there enough adjustment in the factory bracketry or is there more involved? Would it be possible or better to just swap springs? I want to keep this cheap and easy. What am I missing here?

Last edited by Wilson; 06-24-2010 at 10:27 PM.
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 06-25-2010, 05:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
lenross1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Member # 105385
Location: jackson, MS
Posts: 726
You may want to switch out your springs and shocks if you plan on running heavy front and rear bumpers. Your suspension, if stock, is 16 years old... Extended brake lines are a must. If your 35s that you have actually measure 34 inches you will be fine with a J spring lift. once you go over 4 inches you may create front end vibes-solution Double Cardon Drive shaft. I didn't have vibes until i added the the 2 inch spacers from metal tech. Its the lift height thats the issue. I would do a 3.75 or 3.50 inch backspace on the wheels to get your tires away from the frame. you will have to castor correct either by the bushings or a drop bracket. i suggest the bushings.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

87 samurai 3sp auto/1.8 kick tcase/4:1 dana300, yota axles, 4 link rear, 39" krawlers.. reds
build thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

97 FZJ80 supersets,chromoly rear axles,4.88s , 345 KM2s
lenross1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 06-25-2010, 06:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Anyone know what the factory BS is? After posting this, found Man a fre and the OME 3FR2 caught my eye, and they claim will clear most 35's. I'd like to keep it low so my wife can still help get kayaks on and off the roof. My thoughts were also that it might be time to replace the springs and shocks anyhow. I'll be building bumpers myself, and will do what I can to keep them lite, but that's down the road a bit.
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-25-2010, 09:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Member # 74680
Location: SC Mountains
Posts: 565
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilson View Post
Anyone know what the factory BS is?
What I found...

Post#5
Both LX and LC wheels made for '93-97 vehicles have 6 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern, 0 offset (4.5" backspace), 16" diameter, and 8" width. The center bore is 106mm for 93-97; LC and LX

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-oem-rims.html
__________________
Damon

Watch out for the coffee h0s

Last edited by WebWhlR; 06-25-2010 at 09:33 AM.
WebWhlR is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-25-2010, 10:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
lenross1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Member # 105385
Location: jackson, MS
Posts: 726
Factory BS is 4.5.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

87 samurai 3sp auto/1.8 kick tcase/4:1 dana300, yota axles, 4 link rear, 39" krawlers.. reds
build thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

97 FZJ80 supersets,chromoly rear axles,4.88s , 345 KM2s
lenross1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-25-2010, 07:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22408
Location: Rescue, CA
Posts: 3,491
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebWhlR View Post
What I found...

Post#5
Both LX and LC wheels made for '93-97 vehicles have 6 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern, 0 offset (4.5" backspace), 16" diameter, and 8" width. The center bore is 106mm for 93-97; LC and LX

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-oem-rims.html


How the hell can an 8 inch wheel with 0 offset have 4 1/2" backspacing?
__________________
KI6ZGH
Rat70FJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-25-2010, 08:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5767
Location: IDaho
Posts: 1,813
Send a message via Yahoo to ginericfj80
My recommendation screw the spacers, run the OME competition springs up front and the J springs in the rear. This will net you enough room for 35s. I'd also go with a little less backspacing. 3.25-3 5/8" as this widens it. A lot of folks add wheel spacers as their wagons grow. But since you are switching wheels anyway, get some with less backspacing. You can't go crazy though. 2.5" backspacing doesn't work well, been there and done that. Then you hit the outer edge of the fenders.

My other recommendation is do the sliders first. That will save you repairs. Then suspension and then bumpers.
__________________
Eric V. 99 built UZJ100 FJ68 Project 74 FJ15 www.WildWildWestArt.com
ginericfj80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-25-2010, 10:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginericfj80 View Post
My recommendation screw the spacers, run the OME competition springs up front and the J springs in the rear. This will net you enough room for 35s. I'd also go with a little less backspacing. 3.25-3 5/8" as this widens it. A lot of folks add wheel spacers as their wagons grow. But since you are switching wheels anyway, get some with less backspacing. You can't go crazy though. 2.5" backspacing doesn't work well, been there and done that. Then you hit the outer edge of the fenders.

My other recommendation is do the sliders first. That will save you repairs. Then suspension and then bumpers.
I was beginning to think about getting springs only and running some FOA's and longer brake lines with a Castor kit.

Thanks! Spent A LOT of time searching for wheels on the phone and internet. I can't find any stock 17" wheel with less than 4" BS. I'd like to go with a steel soft 8 but even looked at others.

Crazy idea #1.... I have a set of 4 37 x 14.50 R15 Creepy Crawlers that I can't seem to sell. These tires only measure 35" in height. Thinking of saving the coin on new tires and wheels and using that money towards lift parts and steel for sliders, etc. A 15" wheel would open up nearly endless backspacing options. Will the front and rear brakes clear in a 15" wheel?

Last edited by Wilson; 06-25-2010 at 10:23 PM.
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-26-2010, 12:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18528
Location: Everywhere, SC
Posts: 487
Send a message via AIM to BenMara
is ur rear axle is drum or disk
__________________
Function before Fashion
BenMara is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-26-2010, 06:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
'94, FF disc
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-26-2010, 07:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5767
Location: IDaho
Posts: 1,813
Send a message via Yahoo to ginericfj80
The rims won't clear the rear disc brakes. You can get 15s to clear with about 2.75" backspacing but the tires will stick out so far that you will have to trim the outer fenders quite a bit and the tires will be sticking out a lot. A 4" backspaced 17x9 wouldn't be too bad of a wheel on a 80. Wheels with less backspacing are hard to find in 16s and even harder to find in 17s. For 16s Mickey Thompson Classic 2s, Eagle Alloys 101s, and Weld Stonecrushers are about it and they are all 3 5/8". For 17s almost everything is custom unless you go to a beadlock aluminum rim and a lot of those are 3.5".

There are 3 options for caster plates for 4" plus 80 series lift. Landtank on Mud sells some, Slee sells some and Ironman aka www.camel4x4.com sells some. For this amount of lift you need caster plates and not bushings. I've actually found that the plates are quicker and easier to install than the bushings anyways. Also, the caster plates let you retain the soft rubber OEM bushings. I've seen lots of problems with the urethane bushings in the 80 series front control arms. They just don't flex enough and then they pop. It isn't good.

I'm going to order a set of the www.camel4x4.com caster plates for a current project I'm working on. They also sell Ironman suspension which is new to the US. Well, I should say the 80 series up stuff is new to the US. There was a previous importer of their leaf springs years ago. Their 4" comp spring is the same spring rate as a J rear and slightly softer in the front. I'm actually considering ditching my OME Js to try them out as I have a 60 body on my 80 chassis so it is a little lighter and I could take advantage of a slightly softer spring rate.

I'm a big fan of mixing and matching suspension components. Especially when it comes to shocks on the 80s. You can get a lot more travel from Ranchos or Bilsteins than the very typical OME L shock that most 80 series guys use. Get out your tape measure, do some figuring, and go for it.
__________________
Eric V. 99 built UZJ100 FJ68 Project 74 FJ15 www.WildWildWestArt.com
ginericfj80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-27-2010, 09:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginericfj80 View Post
The rims won't clear the rear disc brakes. You can get 15s to clear with about 2.75" backspacing but the tires will stick out so far that you will have to trim the outer fenders quite a bit and the tires will be sticking out a lot. A 4" backspaced 17x9 wouldn't be too bad of a wheel on a 80. Wheels with less backspacing are hard to find in 16s and even harder to find in 17s. For 16s Mickey Thompson Classic 2s, Eagle Alloys 101s, and Weld Stonecrushers are about it and they are all 3 5/8". For 17s almost everything is custom unless you go to a beadlock aluminum rim and a lot of those are 3.5".

There are 3 options for caster plates for 4" plus 80 series lift. Landtank on Mud sells some, Slee sells some and Ironman aka www.camel4x4.com sells some. For this amount of lift you need caster plates and not bushings. I've actually found that the plates are quicker and easier to install than the bushings anyways. Also, the caster plates let you retain the soft rubber OEM bushings. I've seen lots of problems with the urethane bushings in the 80 series front control arms. They just don't flex enough and then they pop. It isn't good.

I'm going to order a set of the www.camel4x4.com caster plates for a current project I'm working on. They also sell Ironman suspension which is new to the US. Well, I should say the 80 series up stuff is new to the US. There was a previous importer of their leaf springs years ago. Their 4" comp spring is the same spring rate as a J rear and slightly softer in the front. I'm actually considering ditching my OME Js to try them out as I have a 60 body on my 80 chassis so it is a little lighter and I could take advantage of a slightly softer spring rate.

I'm a big fan of mixing and matching suspension components. Especially when it comes to shocks on the 80s. You can get a lot more travel from Ranchos or Bilsteins than the very typical OME L shock that most 80 series guys use. Get out your tape measure, do some figuring, and go for it.

Great Info! So from what I'm gathering it's entirely possible to use the stock links for up to 4" of lift. I will need castor plates in the front, panhard adjusters, brake lines and possibly a means to adjust the pinion angle for the rear? I was planning to run FOA's if the mounting will work.
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-27-2010, 12:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5767
Location: IDaho
Posts: 1,813
Send a message via Yahoo to ginericfj80
At 4" you don't need to do the panhards. You will be off slightly to one side but it isn't critical and I wouldn't waste money on them for 4", most people dont' change the panhard bars or put in adjustable ones at 4". You will need caster plates with a 4" lift. You will need brake lines. The rear pinion should be just fine. The front you may have to go to a double cardan front driveshaft. I've been lucky none of mine have ever needed it, but a lot of people have to have them.
__________________
Eric V. 99 built UZJ100 FJ68 Project 74 FJ15 www.WildWildWestArt.com
ginericfj80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-30-2010, 06:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Here's a starting picture. Having a trans shop check the trans and tcase today, swapping some tires around and hope to take it for it's first outing this weekend and then a fishing trip with my dad next week.


Last edited by Wilson; 06-30-2010 at 06:52 AM.
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-30-2010, 07:12 AM   #16 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Member # 7876
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,583
Send a message via AIM to Arya Ebrahimi
Is there anything wrong with the trans? Mine has 215k miles on it with zero maintenance since 135k miles and still shifts like new. Trans failures/issues are VERY rare in these rigs because the trans is soooo overbuilt for the application.

I'd be leary of anything more than a drain and refill, I've always heard horror stories of doing flushes on older vehicles.
__________________
'15 F250 Powerstroke
'73 FJ40 Tons, 40s, etc.
'88 FJ62, 100% stock
'94 FZJ80 LS swap in progress
Arya Ebrahimi is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-30-2010, 07:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Plan is to start with a filter change and re-fill. There appears to be a leak, but otherwise everything seems fine. 285k on the clock. I bought it from the original owners who said all they ever had to do was change oil, tires, brakes and 02 sensors. It was never off-roaded and was used as a commuter up until about 5 yrs ago.
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-30-2010, 10:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Member # 8227
Location: San Fernando Valley, California
Posts: 449
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat70FJ View Post
How the hell can an 8 inch wheel with 0 offset have 4 1/2" backspacing?
The offset would refer to the offset from the king pin axis of the birf
J-Bone is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-30-2010, 11:07 AM   #19 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37478
Location: Auburn, Al
Posts: 1,016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat70FJ View Post
How the hell can an 8 inch wheel with 0 offset have 4 1/2" backspacing?
Haha. Goes against logic doesn't it? I think they have a -12MM offset and 4.5 backspacing.
__________________
-Matthew
Cruiser poor.

Last edited by TERRYJMATTHEW; 06-30-2010 at 11:09 AM.
TERRYJMATTHEW is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-30-2010, 11:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37478
Location: Auburn, Al
Posts: 1,016
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Bone View Post
The offset would refer to the offset from the king pin axis of the birf
Come again?
__________________
-Matthew
Cruiser poor.
TERRYJMATTHEW is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-30-2010, 06:24 PM   #21 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Member # 41829
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 89
ill be following this thread..im looking to get an lx450 soon and want to do the same to it
__________________
84 ext. cab toy, bobbed bed, dual cases, 63" rears, ruf, 36" TSL's...gears and armor coming soon...
83SHORTYOTA is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-01-2010, 08:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Member # 115261
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 231
My wifes 80 is running 35x17, rims w/4.5 BS. 4" lift. I corrected the caster with man a fre's brackets. IMO it drives better down the road than any other option. The brackets do hang down, but not any more than my shackles on my Springover and i never hit them. Even if i drag the brackets on something someday, they are extremely beefy.

When caster correction is accomplished w/the plates, the axle must move forward as it travel's up. This makes for a rougher ride. With the drop brackets, the axle retains the exact arc of travel and moves back as it travels up. Think shackle reversal on a 40 series...IMO

On the rear, i used Man-a-fre lowers and adjustable upper control arms. The best things i can say about these is they are massively built and the uppers are adjustable without having to remove them. Makes fine tuning the pinion angle a breeze. If you have ever adjusted control arms you know what a pain some can be to re-install. These adjust similar to a tie rod.

I was considering your maxxis tires...Maybe we could hook up if you want to see the 80 in detail and i could check out the tires........Hers a link to a pic

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.p...1&d=1271818849

Last edited by FAO4WD; 07-12-2010 at 08:30 AM.
FAO4WD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-05-2010, 10:25 AM   #23 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Just put about 550 miles on it round trip with a trip to Usal Beach, then back down the coast through Ft Bragg and Mendocino. No running or drivability issues with the rig. I did drive out on the sand and the center diff did not lock. The tcase shifted into low, but did not signal the locker controller to disable the ABS and activate the lockers. At one point the lights came on and I was able to engage the lockers, but the rear indicator was flashing instead of solid (although it appeared that the rear was locked).
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-06-2010, 01:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Wilson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 7233
Location: Jefferson
Posts: 21,089
Send a message via AIM to Wilson
Bringing this back up. I recently finished my buggy, so time to get on with this one. I will be slightly changing the order of things. I have 100' or so of 1.75" x .120 DOM left from my fj40 build and did not use my 8274 on the buggy. I plan to build bumpers and sliders first. I haven't seen many tube bumpers on 80's but I would like to try and use it and save some weight, over a plate bumper. I also just got in on the group buy going on mud and ordered the F/R 5.29's, install kits, solid spacers, knuckle kit, wheel bearings and Nitro 4340 birfield/ axle combo.

Other news.... With more regular use, the low range indicator seems to have worked itself out and now disables the ABS and activates the CDL within a few feet after shifting the case. I've taken the rig on a fishing trip with my dad, a hunting trip and drive it frequently during the week.
Wilson is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2010, 06:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20092
Location: Porker, CO
Posts: 3,478
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilson View Post
Bringing this back up. I recently finished my buggy, so time to get on with this one. I will be slightly changing the order of things. I have 100' or so of 1.75" x .120 DOM left from my fj40 build and did not use my 8274 on the buggy. I plan to build bumpers and sliders first. I haven't seen many tube bumpers on 80's but I would like to try and use it and save some weight, over a plate bumper. I also just got in on the group buy going on mud and ordered the F/R 5.29's, install kits, solid spacers, knuckle kit, wheel bearings and Nitro 4340 birfield/ axle combo.

Other news.... With more regular use, the low range indicator seems to have worked itself out and now disables the ABS and activates the CDL within a few feet after shifting the case. I've taken the rig on a fishing trip with my dad, a hunting trip and drive it frequently during the week.
any updates on this? kinda curious to see your ideas on front/rear bumpers and the sliders.

I just picked up a green '94 myself with 154k miles and factory lockers.

thanks!
__________________
'94 Toyota Land Cruiser FJZ80 - Vortec L33 5.3l, 4L60e, elocked, 3" OME lift, 315 KM2s, Warn 8074.
rock-rod is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.