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Old 02-22-2012, 07:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Prerunner to 4x4 to SAS

I have a 01 Prerunner that I swapped to 4x4 in 2009. I currently have a 3in Toytec/Bilstein lift with 33x12.50 Goodyear Duratracs. I've geared it to 4.56, there's an e-locker in the rear and Spartan lunchbox in the front. (manual hubs). I picked up some UCA's and lower ball joints and have been just trying to find time to put them on. Well upon further inspection it's going to be needing pretty much a whole new steering setup, and to top that off the rear leafs are starting to flat-line...

I have now decided to go with a SAS. I have wanted one for a while and I have done some h/w on the swap. I talked to my local fab shop and after looking at all the b/s you have to do to fit the Trail-Gear kit, he thinks that he could fab up a 3 link setup for the same amount, maybe cheaper. The biggest thing is I want it done right. This is my daily driver/weekend wheeler. I am probably going to stay on 33's or 35's for a while, until I get out of school and can get another vehicle.

Here is what I was thinking about and would just like some of your opinions.

Transfer Case : Case out of a 82 toyota pickup, geared to 4.7 w/ 23 spline, Inchworm Tacoma Adapter, Speed Gear Adapter, Trail-Gear Heavy Duty Driveline Kit <-- Already have the case and everything else is on order

Axle : Also out of a 82 pickup, 4.56 gears/bearing, spartan locker, 6 Shooter Knuckle with a full rebuild <-- I have the axle, gears are on order

And my predicament... Suspension : If I were to do the three link, I was thinking about running 12" or 14" coilovers (Fox/ FOA/ Bilstein) and 10" 200lb lower coils and 14" 250lb lowers. I don't know that much about coilover setups. I have a plate bumper on the front with a winch, it probably weighs around 175-200lbs. If you guys could chime in and make suggestions on shock size, coils strenght, different suspension setups, anything it would greatly be appreciated.




Last edited by alove0750; 02-22-2012 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Keep me informed on the swap Adam, and let me know if you need a hand with anything. Would love to help with this as I'm planning my own swap as well.

What tire size you planning on running?

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Old 02-23-2012, 02:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, will do! I got everything coming from Inchworm and I'm hoping to have the gear driven case in soon. I'm going to convert the front back to 2wd, I already have the front diff, spindles, hubs, cv's sold. I'm probably to to keep it on 33's or 35's, I haven't decided yet. I have to keep it a functional driver for now so MPG is a factor and I'm getting good mileage with 33's. If anything it seems to be a little over geared so I may step up to 35's. I'm trying to have it all together and any kinks worked out by memorial day

What kind of setup are you going with?

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Old 02-23-2012, 05:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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What kind of UCA's did you buy?
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Invest in some IFS hubs to widen the axle to match the rear as well. But as far as the links go, I think it depends on how hard you are going to wheel and is it nessecary. I would stick to leafs for cheap, you can get some yota rears for the front and some 63" chevy's, good flex and keep 'er low. Then again it's really whatever your little heart desires.
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Who made your rear bumper?
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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What kind of UCA's did you buy?

They are the new Icon UCA's
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Who made your rear bumper?

M.O.B.S. Fab in Concord, NC. He is the one that will be doing the swap.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So another issue that I am running into is: Trail-Gear is saying that I could not run a regular/high steer kit with the 3-link setup due to the amount of flex and that I would have to go full hydraulic steering.

Here are the builds that I am pretty much going off of right now. Granted they are running a Dana 44's, but they aren't running hydro steer... I'm not doing any kind of crazy flex with this setup, and at most I would be running a 12-14 in travel coilover. If anyone could help me out of clarify any of this it would help the put the plans in stone.

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthre...=tacoma&page=2

http://rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=285

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Old 02-25-2012, 04:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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So another issue that I am running into is: Trail-Gear is saying that I could not run a regular/high steer kit with the 3-link setup due to the amount of flex and that I would have to go full hydraulic steering.

That doesn't make any sense. Sure your going to have to limit the travel but to say you can't? Your panhard bar is going to be running just like the drag link, only difference will be which side of the frame it goes to.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Post 39, in that first link, last pic. Plenty of space to fit a box and arm, might have to cut up the front body mount to push it forward some. If your using that as something to follow, you can see the tire will rub the coilover before you have problems with the drag link or box.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I think they were saying that it would flex too much and I would snap joints. I don't know... I think that I would be fine running the mild setup that I want, but I don't know for sure. It may just come down to trial by fire. Worst case I can put it on the ramp, flex it and see what happens
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I think they were saying that it would flex too much and I would snap joints. I don't know... I think that I would be fine running the mild setup that I want, but I don't know for sure. It may just come down to trial by fire. Worst case I can put it on the ramp, flex it and see what happens
Chances are you won't max out the drag link ends. I wouldn't listen to a word they say, do more research
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thank god I'm not the only one thinking that... It will be at least a month and a half to two months before it goes under the knife, so I'm just trying to find as many builds that are running a similar setup and go off of them.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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So the things I'm having an issue with right now is weighing the truck to figure out what coil combo to run. One on the builds I'm going off of used 10in, 150lbs on the top and a 14in, 200lb on the bottom. He said that it was too soft for him. He has a 2.7, where as I have a 3.4 + custom bumper/winch (175lb-200lb). I'm thinking that a 10in, 200lb on top and a 14in, 275lb on the bottom or maybe a lil heavier, but I would like to know for sure. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Got some inspiration today by riding around with my buddy in his newly SASed 4runner. It turned out pretty good and it should be interesting to see what it will do offroad.





Got the case out and cleaned it off as much as I could/wanted to. Not perfect but better than it was... I used some B52 degreaser, that stuff is awesome!


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Old 02-29-2012, 04:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Look what came in the mail!





Tacoma transmission adapter + speedometer adapter





4.7:1 Creeper gears






4.56 for the diff + bearing kit





The collection


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Old 02-29-2012, 05:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The reason TG says it will not work with highsteer is because the panhard will interfere with the tie-rod on the highsteer arms. Its basically designed to run in the same plane and location to help clear the diff.

You can do what I did on my 3-link. Use Chevy Y-type steering with factory Toyota steering arms. Ream them to the chevy 1-ton TREs and run them on top of the steering arms. This gives you 2" more clearance to clear the panhard and you can run standard crossover type steering.

IMHO, there is zero reason to run highsteer on a linked rig. Highsteer was designed to clear leaf springs. You don't need to do this on a linked front. Besides with the chevy setup running over the factory steering arms, its only about 2" lower than highsteer anyway and puts a lot less stress on the steering arms, knuckle studs, and trunion bearings.



Plenty of flex, no bind:


FWIW though, I wouldn't use TG's 3-link kit on a Taco. The geometry will have some oversteer in it and it will be darty on the hwy. I would start from scratch, use Infamous Metalworks three link crossmember and Ruff Stuff brackets and design your own with a little understeer in it. It will drive much better down the hwy.
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info! I'm not using TG's kit, I think the only thing that was going to used from them (3 link wise) was the brackets that went on the axle. He's going to either do Ruff Stuff brackets or possible do some custom brackets/crossmember. Your build is awesome! Are there any other options steering wise? Could I run the FJ80 TRE's with a Y setup?

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Old 03-01-2012, 07:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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More goodies

Trail-Gear heavy duty driveline with Creeper joint






Swapping everything to Amsoil







It's coming together nicely. I'm dropping off the case and the 4.7's to let him go ahead and get them in, and thursday I'm doing the transfer case swap... back to 2wd status for me

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Old 03-17-2012, 06:36 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Figured I would update the build. The 4.7's are in and they are amazing, I can't wait to get this thing together so I can see what it will do! My Marlin Crawler axle rebuild came in, along with my Spartan locker and low-pro drain plug. Everything I need from Trail-Gear is ordered and on the way. I got all the oil pan parts. Now all I have to get is the coilovers, link brackets and shock hangers from Ballistic Metal.


[

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Old 03-18-2012, 08:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I got my winch control switch hooked up tonight. I thought that it turned out pretty good





I'm ordering coilovers probably this thursday... that's the last thing I have to get before the swap, other than getting the axle rebuilted/geared/locked. The stuff from Trail-Gear should come in towards the end of the week. I can't wait to get the six shooter knuckles!
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:24 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I finally got around to updating everything. Here is where I stand as of right now...

I got the axle. I went through it and did new seals/bearings, Got the 6 shooter knuckles on. The only issue I can into was I was told that I was getting a 82 axle, so I ordered slotted and drilled rotors for a 82... well it turned out to be a 79-80 axle. The way the rotors attach to the hub is different. 79-80 they bolt on, 81-85 they press on. So that can't be used, but I did get some vented rotors for it, they fit a 79 FJ40. I went ahead and got chromo hubs for the lock outs. I have already swapped in the T100 oil pan/swapped to amsoil. The coilovers are in the garage and having to look at them everything is a good motivator I have ordered the U-bolt flip, leaf spring retainers and BPV relocation kit for the rear. All I have left to order is the rear shocks. I'm trying to decide on 10in or 12in Fox's but we will see how the rear leafs turn out.

I drop the truck off thursday at M.O.B.S Fab to get the swap started










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Old 04-15-2012, 11:42 AM   #24 (permalink)
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throw some longfields in your front end while its torn apart. your gunna be really surprised how easy you can blow up those stock birfields. id highly recommend making/purchacing knuckle ball gussets for that housing because your trucks heavy and it wont be long before it bends depending on how often your taking it out.
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:50 PM   #25 (permalink)
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throw some longfields in your front end while its torn apart. your gunna be really surprised how easy you can blow up those stock birfields. id highly recommend making/purchacing knuckle ball gussets for that housing because your trucks heavy and it wont be long before it bends depending on how often your taking it out.
For the time being I'm going to have to run it as is, but both of those are on my soon to get list, along with chromo rear shafts. I'm just going to have to take it easy the first couple runs

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