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Old 06-20-2012, 11:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Stock CV Question

I replaced my stock CV when the boot tore with an autozone "new" CV. After a week I started to hear a clunk when I hit a bump. I took it back and got another one thinking it was a bad CV. The second one did the same thing. I did notice some play at the diff, but I've read up to 1/8th inch play is normal. I took it a part again to make sure the c-clip is seating. I can push it in by hand and didn't think it was all the way in causing the play, but when I remove it I have to pry it out and can feel the c-clip release.

Any suggestions? Again, it takes several days of normal road driving to start clunking and I didn't have this issue prior to the repair. At 174ft/lb of torque I highly doubt the big nut is backing off, plus its locked in with the cap and cotter pin. Thanks in advance for any help!
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I replaced my stock CV when the boot tore with an autozone "new" CV. After a week I started to hear a clunk when I hit a bump. I took it back and got another one thinking it was a bad CV. The second one did the same thing. I did notice some play at the diff, but I've read up to 1/8th inch play is normal. I took it a part again to make sure the c-clip is seating. I can push it in by hand and didn't think it was all the way in causing the play, but when I remove it I have to pry it out and can feel the c-clip release.

Any suggestions? Again, it takes several days of normal road driving to start clunking and I didn't have this issue prior to the repair. At 174ft/lb of torque I highly doubt the big nut is backing off, plus its locked in with the cap and cotter pin. Thanks in advance for any help!
check your swaybar links...common cause of 'the clunk'
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Need to torque the nuts with a torque wrench do not use an impact to tighten down, that can damage the wheel bearings. it wont the clunking noise you are talking about but it is good to do it to eliminate a potential problem.
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Last edited by locost7; 06-21-2012 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Everything was done to torque. That's why I quoted the torque spec. I also blue loctited the four lower ball joint bolts.

'00Tacosinger, Thanks I'll check the sway bar links.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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badmoonrising cant spell my damn name right, next time pull your finger out for your ass. there was a reason i was asking him the question i did

Last edited by locost7; 06-22-2012 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Everything was done to torque. That's why I quoted the torque spec. I also blue loctited the four lower ball joint bolts.

'00Tacosinger, Thanks I'll check the sway bar links.
the reason i was even offering the advice about the wheel bearing was because when the bearing gets a little play in it, the rotor will "knock" the side part of the caliper. if you jack the truck up, does the wheel have play if you hit it at the top then lower part of the wheel and then the side and side of the wheel?
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Nope, no play. It was the first thing I checked. My Chevy has had two wheel bearings fail.

I only had a second to play with it. I could only get the lower sway bar link nut off easily. The uppper one is fighting me. The six allen in the center of it to keep it from spinning is a little worn. I'll soak it tonight and see if it slides off this weekend.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ok, have you checked the upper and lower balljoints? and the inner and outer tierods? there is a spring in the joints that puts a preload on the nylon race which the metal ball rides in. if you use a long leverage bar to check it, it will look like it has slop in it. use your hand to check them top and bottom of the wheel(balljoints) side to side of the wheel (tie rods). do you have a rachet wrench and an allen head socket for the swaybar link? try soaking it with a little bit of wd40 to help loosen it up.

Last edited by locost7; 06-22-2012 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I put it back together tonight. I found a little play in the upper sway bar link bolt. Hopefully that's the issue. It's easy to get to without taking anything apart. Thanks for your help and hopefully the mystery clunk is solved.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The aftermarket CVs also do not have as much travel as OEM......you might be hearing the CV tripod end maxing out and binding.....this is why the aftermarkets are much weaker and do not last offroad. I would pick up some OEM shafts.

Last edited by Lrgrnr; 06-24-2012 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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It's most notable on small bumps at low speed. If it keeps bugging me I'll just replace the sway bar link. The upper bolt is tight, but there is still some play.
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