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Old 04-13-2017, 11:23 AM   #76 (permalink)
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While I had easy access, I decided to replace the fuel filter. Hopefully all this cleaning and filter change will result in a better running engine.




Some pictures of the throttle body after cleaning, powdercoating and re-assembly.










I also cleaned up the IAC valve before reinstalling.






I finally got all the right shims to get my valve clearances in spec, so I was able to get the valve cover reinstalled. Anything that was removed was reinstalled with new OEM seals and gaskets. I think my order from Camelback Toyota was 48 items. Took forever to get everything, but once it was here it was just a matter of printing out torque specs and getting to work. Here's a few progress shots of getting everything back on the engine.








That's where it sits for now. Still needs more parts, time and money before it's complete. Radiator should be here tomorrow, so that will be a big step. Still need to finish up the transfer case crossmember. Now it's pretty much down to all the little annoying things that keep adding up and nickel & diming my wallet.

Last edited by midcoma; 04-13-2017 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:38 PM   #77 (permalink)
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There may be some interest in this post, so I'll go ahead and add details.

I was sick of breaking plastic radiators so I decided to get an aluminum one. Well, aluminum radiators for the Tacoma are pretty difficult to come by. I found two sources, "myautopartswholesale" on ebay and Radiator Express.

Myautopartswholesale had the radiator listed for around $190. Radiator Express had it listed for $290. After making a few calls, I was pretty sure they were the same part, so I ordered one from ebay and it came out to $196.76 total including shipping. Well a few hours later I got an email saying they had to cancel my order because the radiators were out of stock. So I called Radiator Express and sucked it up and spent $100 more. About two hours after placing that order I got a call saying they were also out of stock. So that helped confirm my suspicion that the radiators were the same part. I don't know if the two companies are the same, but I'm fairly confident they pull from the same stock. The web page has been updated, but Radiator express had the MSRP at $190, with a sale price of $290. I asked the sales associate why the radiator costs more than the MSRP and the response I got was "these radiators are so rare that they sell for more than MSRP". So I cancelled the order, but ended up calling a couple weeks later and placing a backorder for the radiator. Radiator Express was good about letting me know when a new shipment was coming in and their dates ended up being accurate. I received the radiator about 6 weeks after placing the original order. Price was $305 after shipping. It turns out that it is the same brand myautopartswholesale was selling for $100 less. So if you can find it on ebay I'd go that route. If you know you want one and you're willing to pay more and wait, Radiator Express had good customer service and you can place it on backorder to ensure you get one.

Here's a link to the radiator: Aluminum Tacoma Radiator

It's a 18.5" core with a transmission cooler.

Here's a few pictures.





It comes with aluminum mounting brackets welded on.



A few close ups. Welds are ok. Some are better than others.














Last edited by midcoma; 04-30-2017 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:51 PM   #78 (permalink)
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The overall fit of the radiator was surprisingly good. It did have a slight twist to it, but bolting to the core support pulled it flat. I had to oblong one of the core support holes about 1/8" to get a bolt to line up, but that may be from my truck hitting rocks. The nuts welded to the brackets are the correct thread for factory hardware.

I had to make a few modifications for it to fit my application. I ordered a new shroud for the smaller radiator from Rock Auto. The shroud had to be notched slightly for the lower hose mount.




And I had to cut off the lower driver side shroud nut to get the radiator to clear my steering box.







I drilled 2 holes in the shroud and bracket so I could use zip ties to secure this corner.



Overall shroud fit.




Installed pictures. I still need to get the shorter lower hose.



Fan fits perfectly.





Just clears the front steering box bolt.

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Old 04-29-2017, 07:52 PM   #79 (permalink)
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And it sits above the frame rails.

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Old 04-29-2017, 08:05 PM   #80 (permalink)
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I finished my crossmember. Decided to add a couple vertical gussets on the sides. And the bracket on the driver side is to support the factory gask tank skid. I wish some of the welds would have turned out nicer, but they'll hold.








Installed.







I need to lower it one more time to adjust my shifters, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:35 PM   #81 (permalink)
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A few other little updates.

I got the front brake lines installed. I decided to order custom lines from Spiegler Performance. They mostly do motorcycle brake lines, but they'll make them for anything they have fitting for. They have quite a list of fittings to choose from. They also have a nice selection of line colors. I got rear lines from them too, but they aren't installed yet. All the fittings are stainless steel, including the banjo bolt. I went with a 20⁰ offset banjo fitting to keep the line out of the tire and a standard female m10x1.00 inverted flare at the frame end. I had them add a tab to the line because I intend to run a spring or bungee cord from the line to the frame to keep the line under control at ride height.







I also finally got my reservoirs mounted. I made a rookie mistake when trying to mount them and let one of the fittings on the hose come loose. Didn't notice until a bunch of shock fluid had already leaked out. So I had to pull the coilovers again and take them to my shock guy so he could adjust the fluid level and recharge with nitrogen. But they're all good now.

I used 316 stainless steel worm clamps. The clamp was cut for minimal excess and I also wrapped most of it with heat shrink to protect the reservoir. I also put two wraps of electrical tape under the clamps for protection.



Passenger side.



Driver side is a bit tighter.








I've been waiting for a few parts to finish rebuilding my starter, but they finally arrived. I had it powdercoated along with the other batch of parts. I like how it turned out. Removed the coating from under the necessary bolts to ensure a ground connection. Had it bench tested at the parts store prior to install to make sure everything was good.







And then just an overall shot of how the engine is coming together.

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Old 05-01-2017, 12:12 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Very nice attention to detail.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:46 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Got some wiring done. I previously ran a Dakota Digital SGI-5C to correct my speedometer error. I didn't know so much about wiring when I installed it, so it wasn't as clean as it could have been. I decided to go with a different unit this time and wire it better. I chose the SpeedoHealer V4 from HealTech Electronics this time. I went with the SH-V4-AB model because it includes a switch to easily change between 2 settings. I use a smaller tire on the street than I do when off road and I like to have the speedometer calibrated for each tire. With this unit, I can set two separate settings and easily change between them by flipping the switch. I used the SH-U01 wiring harness and purchased it all from Blue Monkey Motorsports. It can be found under the Yamaha tab.

These are the gauge cluster plugs on my truck.



All the connections were soldered and covered with heat shrink.





I soldered the wires to the bottom of the factory pins. These are the positive and ground wires.



Plugged back into the connector.



Finished wiring.



I ran the cable to the left of the gauge cluster and behind the left air vent, then down to the fuse panel. This is the cable management in that area.



I put the switch for the different settings on the dash near the dimmer knob. This is the location from the back of the dash.



And the front.



And this is how it will be accessed for adjustments. The cable gets coiled and stored behind the fuse panel access when not needed.

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Old 05-17-2017, 10:04 PM   #84 (permalink)
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The rear shocks and brakes are installed.

Here's the frame to axle line.



Used a high pressure (3,200psi) 1/8" NPT elbow at the proportioning valve.



And the lower fitting has a 20⁰ bend to get the line more vertical.



Overall junction.



In this picture you can see the left fitting is straight and the right fitting has a 45⁰ bend.



I can't speak enough to how awesome these lines are. When I was ordering I asked it they had any chafe guards and they said they could add Norprene tubing and heat shrink, I just had to tell them where to put it. I didn't know where it had to go, so I told them how long I needed it to be and asked if they could leave the heat shrink un-heated so I could move it. The lines arrived exactly how I asked. I was able to set the chafe guard where I wanted it, then shrink the tube.



The caliper lines have 90⁰ banjo fittings. Again, all the metal fittings, including the banjo bolt, are stainless steel.





And the FROR Drotor brake kit just barely clears my 15" wheels.



Overall view.

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Old 05-17-2017, 10:12 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I run a triple stick from RADesigns and made a custom bracket for the shifters a couple years ago. I wanted all the shifters to be in the forward position when in the high/2WD range. The truck is a daily driver so I wanted everything out of the way as much as possible while on the road. Combining this with the URD short shifter for the W59 and it's a pretty compact shifting setup.

This is the assembled shifter bracket.



Overall view.



And with the boots installed.

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Old 05-18-2017, 08:43 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Badass! I wish i had your level of attention to detail! Im curious to see how that crossmember works out, i want to ditch my fail gear crossmember and your design is peaking my intrest.
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Last edited by Gslander; 05-18-2017 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:17 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Thanks for the detail Midcoma. I have been following the build on TTORA and Pirate. It's been a help, especially on the 4 wheelunderground shock tower install. I am in process of a 1990, 4 wheelunderground 3 link with diamond axle.
A lot of the information transfers over from the Tacoma to the older models.

Will be watching for updates...
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Old 06-04-2017, 03:51 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Sweet brake lines! That's the brand I have on my klr650. May I ask where you got the rear bump stops, or a part #?
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:38 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Sweet brake lines! That's the brand I have on my klr650. May I ask where you got the rear bump stops, or a part #?
I'm loving the brake lines so far!

I got the bump stops years ago shortly after I purchased the truck from Wheelers Offroad. Find them here.
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:50 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Looks great! On my old truck I ran the brake lines over the leaf springs and the first time I had to pull the leaf packs out, I immediately regretted my decision to route the lines that way Keep up the good work
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Old 06-05-2017, 06:50 AM   #91 (permalink)
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This is the first time I've pulled my leafs since they were installed about 7 years ago. Hopefully by the time I need to pull them again it will be time to flush the brake fluid anyway

They were installed over the leafs previously and I still managed to break a line on the trail once. So I'd rather have them out of the way and deal with opening the system to replace leafs than risk having them vulnerable.



Truck is so close! Can't wait to get this thing back on the road.
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:06 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Clean! I need to get off my ass and do my xmember and skidplate. Did you just solid mount to the cases, then put poly mounts at the frame?
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Old 06-09-2017, 08:36 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Did you just solid mount to the cases, then put poly mounts at the frame?
Yes. Hopefully vibrations won't be too bad.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:33 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Did you just solid mount to the cases, then put poly mounts at the frame?
Yes. Hopefully vibrations won't be too bad.
You should be ok. Id be interested to see, i may have to steal your idea
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Old 06-09-2017, 03:59 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Not my idea, I already stole it from @YUMADTHO
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:45 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Clean! I need to get off my ass and do my xmember and skidplate. Did you just solid mount to the cases, then put poly mounts at the frame?
Related but unrelated: That's about how I did the tcase on my samurai. Vibes aren't bad as long as the driveshafts are in check. If you have a problem, it lets you know quick.
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:03 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Hopefully my driveshafts will be good for a while, they just came in today! I had the joint inside a stock double cardan joint seize while I had cruise control set at 70 going down the highway around 2am. That was not fun. Had to get towed to the nearest Toyota dealership and wait for them to open (I wasn't close to home). When the driveshaft seized, the torque broke the bell housing and tail housing of the transmission. Ended up getting a new transmission, clutch and some other random bits. So to prevent that in the future, I grease my driveshafts every oil change.

Some final parts are starting to roll in for the truck, but it's taking a back seat while the wife's 4Runner gets a rear 4WU 4 link. The 4Runner has a deadline of before my baby is born (due July 14th) so it's the priority. It's our "family" car and my wife's daily because it's the only car I own that she can drive (automatic). It's getting the rear 4 link with ToyTec Superflex coils using a stock replacement Diamond housing for a 8.4 diff. I'm putting the front and rear diffs from my Tacoma in it that are geared 4.88 and locked w/ ARBs. Also using the manual hubs from the Tacoma. The crawl box and Lefty from the Tacoma will go in it eventually, but that's not part of this project.

Here's how it's coming along.





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Old 06-13-2017, 10:03 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Hopefully my driveshafts will be good for a while, they just came in today! I had the joint inside a stock double cardan joint seize while I had cruise control set at 70 going down the highway around 2am. That was not fun. Had to get towed to the nearest Toyota dealership and wait for them to open (I wasn't close to home). When the driveshaft seized, the torque broke the bell housing and tail housing of the transmission. Ended up getting a new transmission, clutch and some other random bits. So to prevent that in the future, I grease my driveshafts every oil change.

Some final parts are starting to roll in for the truck, but it's taking a back seat while the wife's 4Runner gets a rear 4WU 4 link. The 4Runner has a deadline of before my baby is born (due July 14th) so it's the priority. It's our "family" car and my wife's daily because it's the only car I own that she can drive (automatic). It's getting the rear 4 link with ToyTec Superflex coils using a stock replacement Diamond housing for a 8.4 diff. I'm putting the front and rear diffs from my Tacoma in it that are geared 4.88 and locked w/ ARBs. Front lift will be from the Icon coilovers I removed from the Tacoma. Also using the manual hubs from the Tacoma. The crawl box and Lefty from the Tacoma will go in it eventually, but that's not part of this project.

Here's how it's coming along.






Last edited by midcoma; 06-13-2017 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:13 PM   #99 (permalink)
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It's to bad you didn't go full floater

Last edited by cougarhouse; 06-16-2017 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 06-17-2017, 09:37 AM   #100 (permalink)
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What are your plans for the fuel tank? Ford?
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