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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 19150
Location: La Quinta, CA
Posts: 888
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Air bump placement
What do you think of the placement?
![]() I took an old rear bump stop, cut it down for a striking plate and then angled the air bump in a bit. The stop is just touching the rubber on the plate at the back. Thanks for your input. Tim |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 19150
Location: La Quinta, CA
Posts: 888
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I totally agree that I should have done it that way from the get go, but time would not allow. I'm going to try and ramp it tomorrow to see how it does. Thanks for the tip though.
Tim |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2002
Member # 14006
Location: Los Gatos, Peoples Republic of California
Posts: 350
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Looks good. That's about where mine hit on the rear.
Be prepared for the rubber pad to have a hole knocked in it soon. I've even cut pads out of semi truck tire tread and they still wear fairly quickly. I guess I could change the end of the air bumb but then it would just wear out instead of the pad. Then again you can just get use to the noise. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 19150
Location: La Quinta, CA
Posts: 888
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Thanks Dick. I am going to try and flex it out, mall style today.
With the track bar there shouldn't be a whole lot of lateral movement so I "think" it will be okay. I guess I'll find out.
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#16 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2002
Member # 14006
Location: Los Gatos, Peoples Republic of California
Posts: 350
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Of course you should cycle it completely before you finish weld. Not doing so is just asking for trouble.
Try to do it so you can get a cut off wheel in there to remove the buckets if at all possible. I know it's really tight in there but think about it just the same. Also check to see if you can still remove the bump with a full nitrogen charge by jacking up the chassis. On my rear with the strike plates like you have I need to remove the strike plates but that beats needing to recharge the bumps. Unless you happen to have your own nitrogen setup. Oh yeah that reminds me, pay attention to access for the sharader valves too. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 19150
Location: La Quinta, CA
Posts: 888
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I think on of the problems I may have is that the shocks are mounted on the inside of the hoop. When I mocked one up last night there is only enough room to put my pinky finger between the bucket and the shock.
I think I will also have to out board the top mounts of the shock. With my bumps, all you have to do is take out the little snap ring, loosen the buckets and they will slide out the top for easy removal.Thanks again. Tim |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 39894
Location: Riverton, Utah
Posts: 356
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Was it the bucket or the bolts for the bucket? You could always turn the bucket towards the cab to gain some clearance if it was the bolts.
By the way I was right.
__________________
99 Tacoma xtra cab, 02 Tacoma 4 door |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2002
Member # 14006
Location: Los Gatos, Peoples Republic of California
Posts: 350
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The bumbs will probably beat the pee water out of delrin over time. I tried a lot of stuff before I did patches of tire tread. Damn that stuff sure stinks when you cut it. Best to back the plastic pads up with some Al tooling plate or something too. Your drawing could be saying that but I just don't see it without some annotation.
I just set the strike plate on top of the spring mount nuts along with some additional flat washers that then added some nyloks on top. |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
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when i do my setup ill be using some 1/2" delrin/cuttingboard/whateveryouwanttocallit and considering it a consumable item and more than likely a custom machine bump striker.
maybe this will clarify what im getting at. this would be welded together as one piece. the plastic would then be mounted with machine screws at the corners into the yellow tabs. the red in the original drawing is the delrin |
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