o2 sensor issues/ cat ellimination

[Niknar]

heres the deal elliminated cat never threw a code till last night after sliding off the trail and had to ride it hard to get out its my rear o2 sensor thats toast any ideas how to elliminate it cost effictively???

[gnob]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/O2bypass.html

[discodaze]

Looks good but does anybody have a pic of thatB

[docjake]

http://www.urdusa.com/Electronics-Re...gis61rmn9b93i4

[tom wade]

Empire o2 simulator is the shit. it replaces the rear sensor completely unlike the urd sim, which requires you to keep a functioning sensor and merely "conditions" the signal.

http://www.empirepao.com/

[editmars]

How is empires any different from URDs? Empire replaces the sensor while URD intercepts the signal. Does Empire's send an accurate reading or does it send what the engine wants to see?

The URD will clear your code and make your truck think it has cats again. If thats what you need, go with the proven product

[tom wade]

empire's replaces the sensor completely, so $115, plug it in, done for life.

urd's you spend $110, splice into your existing o2 senor wires, done until your sensor goes bad, and then you have to replace it for another $70.

They both do the same thing. Empire's generates the complete signal and shows the ecu what it wants to see, and urd's takes the "wrong" signal from your stock sensor and shows the ecu what it wants to see.

even if the ecu needed the rear sensor to calibrate af/r, why would it when the urd sim is giving it the right signal?

like I said, they both do the same thing, but empire is the cheaper (and easier) option in the long run. I currently have empire's sim on my 2wd and everything works great. I have never used urd's,and don't not have a problem with it, or them. this is just my opinion.

[editmars]

Thats not how URDs works. If your sensor goes bad, it will still receive power, and thats all the sim needs. I will say that on second thought, the Empire o2 sim will be better for the OPs application because he probably doesn't even have a sensor in there anymore, so there would be nothing to tap into.

[gnob]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-jefferson...ml#post5819196

this bypass cost like 1$ and turns the lite off for the rear sensor.

[tom wade]

Originally Posted by editmars

Thats not how URDs works. If your sensor goes bad, it will still receive power, and thats all the sim needs. I will say that on second thought, the Empire o2 sim will be better for the OPs application because he probably doesn't even have a sensor in there anymore, so there would be nothing to tap into.

my bad then, that's how it was explained to me.

empire is still plug and play

Originally Posted by gnob

http://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-jefferson...ml#post5819196

this bypass cost like 1$ and turns the lite off for the rear sensor.

that would have been nice to know...

[Niknar]

ya id rather pay a dollar rather than $115

[RcBro]

Any more information anyone found on deleting the rear 02 sensor? If it truly is to ensure the cat is doing its job, I could save some money in the long run by not buying a cat.

Any help would be great.

[gnob]

see my link.

[RcBro]

Originally Posted by gnob

see my link.

I saw the link and read the post, however i'm not seeing any feedback and need for sure answers. I also don't see that method being used on a newer motor.

I've got an 01 3rz in my 80 pickup. I'm having my exhaust made and weighing my options. I'm not 100% sure the donor cats are good. The motor features the dual cats. I've read eliminating one sometimes still shows a code. Factory cars are expensive, aftermarkets aren't bad. But trying to weigh my options. I'd preferring running no cats and no codes. But also looking into the $70 magnaflow cats, but if it turns out two is needed to not throw codes I just wasted more then the cost of a sensor delete.

[mustangstephen]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/O2bypass.html

Can someone post up where to buy these parts and part numbers. I'm good with 12 volt wiring for lights and such but when it gets into resistors I'm

[mustangstephen]

Will these work?
1mOHM resistor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062337
1uf capacitor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rodsPerPage=60

I'll keep looking for the heater circuit resistor. Thinking about waiting on that sense my sensor is good otherwise.

[gnob]

Originally Posted by mustangstephen

Will these work?
1mOHM resistor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062337
1uf capacitor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rodsPerPage=60

I'll keep looking for the heater circuit resistor. Thinking about waiting on that sense my sensor is good otherwise.

these are the parts i used.

i used this bypass on a 00 taco ecm, a 96 t100 and a 97 4runner.

[JustDSM]

Originally Posted by RcBro

Any more information anyone found on deleting the rear 02 sensor? If it truly is to ensure the cat is doing its job, I could save some money in the long run by not buying a cat.

Any help would be great.

In ALL OBDII applications, the rear O2 sensors primary purpose is to check cat functionality. It has ZERO impact on fueling the motor or any other engine management tasks.

[RcBro]

Delete

[gnob]

so for the sake of this conversation.

when i use this setup, i am still using an O2 sensor for the heater side. i didnt really want to take a chance having a resister lying somewhere getting hot trying to burn the truck down.

so when you use this jumper, the scan tool shoes me 0 v at the #2 sensor and n/a for the FT. so today i just unplugged from the sensor to see if it would trip the heater circuit code. well, it did.

so i guess long story short. i got two sensors, just in case i couldnt come up with a feasible cat delete solution when i did my swap.

this one has been working fine for me.

[mustangstephen]

Thanks. I was thinking about leaving the heater on the O2 sensor also. Glad to know this will work. Hopefully ill get a chance to swing by radio shack before the end of the weekend get the parts and install them.

[mustangstephen]

Did it this weekend with the signal wires. Left the black wires for the heater alone. Light came back on today,but is now a P0136 (circuit sensor malfunction). Here is a pic of what it looked like before I tapped it all up. I'll try and inspect it tonight and make sure it is all still intact. Also I used the parts I linked a few post ago. Even showed the guy at radio shack the website for each part to get the right ones.

[RockRogue]

Or you could just get a working cat and not worry about it

[mustangstephen]

I have a working cat. Replaced it along with a bunch of other shit chasing this problem 2 years ago. Got tired of no results so quit chasing it till lately as I've moved to a county that requires emissions testing. Got inspected before I moved so I have a little time but still have to fix this. Toyota wants 1 or 2 grand for factory cats and I say bull shit to that. I'm not trying to run without a cat just fix this without spending an arm and a leg.

[RockRogue]

Originally Posted by mustangstephen

I have a working cat. Replaced it along with a bunch of other shit chasing this problem 2 years ago. Got tired of no results so quit chasing it till lately as I've moved to a county that requires emissions testing. Got inspected before I moved so I have a little time but still have to fix this. Toyota wants 1 or 2 grand for factory cats and I say bull shit to that. I'm not trying to run without a cat just fix this without spending an arm and a leg.

Oh ok. I have ran aftermarket cats a few times without issue, but not in my Tacoma yet... Yeah the factory cats are pricey.