Bro-coma.. getting unbro-d

[-Matt-]

because hyenas truck was right around that, and i think his truck wheeled the best out of anything i ever drove or have seen. and i cant stand the look of the wheels basically touching on the extra cab of these trucks.

your truck would look proportional with 117-120, since its a single cab. but mine wouldnt at all.

[Fawk Awph]

122 will be a limo, but it wont stop you from going anywhere. i like my 117 more than my 122 i had, but the 122 climbed better for sure.

[Erics Tacoma]

Originally Posted by -Matt-

because hyenas truck was right around that, and i think his truck wheeled the best out of anything i ever drove or have seen. and i cant stand the look of the wheels basically touching on the extra cab of these trucks.

your truck would look proportional with 117-120, since its a single cab. but mine wouldnt at all.

Haters gunna hate.

I love my 124" Climbs like a beast. Good choice IMO

[lilbuddy]

Originally Posted by Erics Tacoma

Haters gunna hate.

Thats all Callen said all last week...

[kiyul4130]

Originally Posted by -Matt-

your truck would look proportional with 117-120, since its a single cab. but mine wouldnt at all.

totally

[toy86]

my truck is 112 right now and i think it looks a little retarded because the rear isnt centered in the wheel opening anymore and the front cant go any further forward because it would rub the headlights too much

[Taco-Runner]

How do you plan on mounting your coilovers? ie what angle and stuff?

[-Matt-]

Originally Posted by Taco-Runner

How do you plan on mounting your coilovers? ie what angle and stuff?

i think i might do / \ a little bit. not sure yet though. iv been playing with the idea of not running bumps... since there really is no limits to my rear setup. if i set it to 8inches of up till my coilover bottoms out do i really need bumps..? or would a hard hit still blast though 8inches and then hit the shock body to hard. i know its all about valving and spring rates at that point but i just wanna heard opinions.

is it probable to not run bumps in this situation or is it a must?

as for mounting the shocks, i think im gonna start some tube work before i mount them.

[toy86]

billys runner is set up with about 6" of shaft on his rear coilovers and we were hammering through that pretty easily at the hammers this week but still able to haul total ass. I think running some simple poly bumps would have been huge and some stiffer valving a big plus

[-Matt-]

Originally Posted by toy86

billys runner is set up with about 6" of shaft on his rear coilovers and we were hammering through that pretty easily at the hammers this week but still able to haul total ass. I think running some simple poly bumps would have been huge and some stiffer valving a big plus

is billy not running bumps at all?

[toy86]

no just the ones on the shock shafts, it needs something though. im redoing my truck right now and going with air bumps up front and large poly bumps out back

[jimmysc13]

nice work matt.

The rear link setup on my truck is very similiar to yours. Ill just be mount up frame side uppers differently.

Glad to see that my setup is close to some one elses.


I don't think you can get away with out running some sort of bump stop, with coilovers. Unless you had it setup where the springs would coil-bind and not allow you to use up any more travel. Bottoming out a shock isn't good.

[kbarwall]

you see are the bomb-diggity at fab work, love in it man

[-Matt-]

thanks guys.

i was re thinking, ill need to run bumps. i forgot about when my truck is loaded down with gear. if it weren't for that i could probably tune them right to not have to run bumps.

[Taco-Runner]

Originally Posted by -Matt-

i think i might do / \ a little bit. not sure yet though. iv been playing with the idea of not running bumps... since there really is no limits to my rear setup. if i set it to 8inches of up till my coilover bottoms out do i really need bumps..? or would a hard hit still blast though 8inches and then hit the shock body to hard. i know its all about valving and spring rates at that point but i just wanna heard opinions.

is it probable to not run bumps in this situation or is it a must?

as for mounting the shocks, i think im gonna start some tube work before i mount them.

Yes even with 8" of up travel you will still max out the shocks if you're going fast enough. You'll want the air bump just to slow the travel down at the last bit, otherwise it will buck the back end due to the hard stop.

[-Matt-]

ok, thats kinda what i was thinking once i thought about it more. as for the springs rates. should they be slightly stiffer than the front since the backs gonna be changing due to loading gear up all the time?

[Taco-Runner]

Stiffer only in the sense that the back end is lighter usually. But slightly lighter compression valving too. Then there is the angle of the shocks that will play tricks on how much the springs compress too. The rear is difficult because the load changes and the angle of the shocks. If you only want to do it once you may have to take the front coilovers off and use them in the back for mock up and weight estimates. Or barrow someones.

As for dealing with various loads, either go soft springs and be willing to preload that crap out of them when ever you have a load or use a helper coil. Either way you're looking at making adjustments if you're picking about the ride height.

[zainyD]

Insane build man. You do phenomenal work!

[-Matt-]

didnt do to much this weekend but i finally wrapped up all my wiring, got the battery and arb stuff all finished. waiting on my pillow block to come in the main so i can finish my drivelines. need to save money for a whole bunch of tubing.

also im gonna attempt to make my own light bar. been doing lots of research, ordered a whole bunch of stuff to test different products out. im not gonna give any info on what im using yet until i have it all working (hopefully) but im gonna be using one of the best high powered most efficient leds on the market today (i dont think any of the light bar companies are even using it). if everything works out i should be able to have a legit light bar that will only cost me 300$ in parts. shooting for 20,000+ lumens. might be a while till all the parts show up though.

[Erics Tacoma]

Looking good

But still no washers on them bolts

[Hyena]

There on the tube side.

[kiyul4130]

matt your not worried about sinking that compressor under water at fordyce? im not familiar with the specs on those pumps but for some reason a top truck challenge ad comes to my mind saying how they can handle anything? i know last summer wheeling with wilson at fordyce his took a crap. we just hit the trail and we turned back to eagle lakes to tear it apart at the parking lot to find water got inside.

[-Matt-]

From what I know they can handle anything. And I just wouldnt have it run when I do a crossing. I also could hook the intake to some of my left over flex line and run it under the hood or in the cab.. I might actually do that. Besides the intake everything sealed

[chuggins143]

I may have missed it, but did you pull the York?

[Fawk Awph]

Yeah, run that arb intake into your intake or something.