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Old 02-19-2012, 08:20 PM   #651 (permalink)
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no, yorks still there, just using the york strictly for air. a few years ago when i bought my arb they had the deal going on where you got a free compressor. at least it has its own unit and wiring harness. keeps everything simple. i already have all the fittings and line.. ill probably just run the filter up underneath the hood or right in the cab somewhere. didn't realize that even when it wasn't running water might get in there and then pump it into the locker.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:25 PM   #652 (permalink)
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:36 PM   #653 (permalink)
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no, yorks still there, just using the york strictly for air. a few years ago when i bought my arb they had the deal going on where you got a free compressor. at least it has its own unit and wiring harness. keeps everything simple. i already have all the fittings and line.. ill probably just run the filter up underneath the hood or right in the cab somewhere. didn't realize that even when it wasn't running water might get in there and then pump it into the locker.
The locker isn't the problem, the compressor can lock up as a result. Had that happen with mine on fordyce last summer. First the pressure switch went, then the next run we heard the compresor lock up on the cisco trail. Took it apart and found about a 1/2 teaspoon of water. Sprayed some WD40 in it, put it back together and all was well.

Just went back a page.....It should be noted that mine was mounted high on the interior firewall (still exposed to the elements) It was never submerged, but was rained/ snowed on.
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:11 PM   #654 (permalink)
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damn, thanks kyle and wilson for the heads up. will only take me a few minutes to fix and saves me a head ache. i wonder if arb used a sealed housing with a product like this if it would keep the water out ... obviously being submerged fully and running it would suck water no matter what. but at least it would keep residual stuff out.

http://www.gore.com/MungoBlobs/20/31...US_AUG11_e.pdf


if yours was like that just from snow wheeling i cant imagine mine after getting dunked through creek crossings
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:58 PM   #655 (permalink)
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When they first released the mini compressor, it was advertised as waterproof, if vented above the water line. I ran the stock filter on mine and witin a year I guess managed to suck enough water vapor out of the atmosphere to lock up?

I say run the intake high into your cab, use a thread sealant and it should be fine
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:09 PM   #656 (permalink)
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ya i think thats what im gonna do, there's a floor plug right by the compressor that goes into the extra cab storage area. ill just shove the line through there and seal it.
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:39 PM   #657 (permalink)
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got my pillow block in the mail the other day, went to my work and got all the pillow block machining,spacers and mount done. now i need to just get a driveline made then ill mount it up.

decided to use polly mounts, thought it would be the perfect setup, really strong, not sloppy, and should kill some vibration from the pillow block. also i got a stainless pillow block. first i was gonna use a standard one (cast iron housing) then from talking to a few people i decided it would be a bad idea. my boss said hes had many of the bearing housings break on machinery before just since its so brittle. didn't want it to crack with a hard driveline hit. also if it broke it would be hard to weld back to get off the trail. that's why i decided to go with the stainless housing, way strong and not brittle, and ill be able to weld it if something happens.

pillow block is a standard 1-1/2" shaft diameter. fits the stock tacoma setup perfect without having to machine the original driveshaft coupler diameter. BEARING SKU# SUCSP208-24







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Old 02-26-2012, 06:38 AM   #658 (permalink)
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looks awesome, what machining did you have to do? just machine the ends of the drive line off? I see you made those two spacers on the shaft, but was just wondering what else you had to do. Also where did you get the pillow block? I was looking at northern tool and they sell pillow block cheap, like around 10 bucks. Is that what you did, or did you go for the real deal from a driveline shop? I am wanting to link my truck in the future and seems that a two piece driveline is the way to go up front. Thanks in adavance

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Old 02-26-2012, 09:44 AM   #659 (permalink)
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i should have taken a before and after pic, i figured that question would come up, kinda hard for me to explain, its not complicated.. but i was just kinda doing my own random thing. i basically took off all the dust shields, and then since there are a lot of random tapers that are there for holding the dust shrouds i got rid of most of those, that way the spacers would fit more neatly.

it was all just lathe work, and the spacers i made were just some thick wall dom tubing i had left over, i milled the inside till it was a super snug fit. like i said i didn't have to change the shaft diameter where the bearing slides on, there was just a few spots where i took that same dimension further down the shaft

realistically, you could just throw the bearing on there and put some small 1 1/2" spacers on there to take up the left over gap and it would work. just wouldn't be as neat and probably not quit as balanced.

look back on the top of that last post i put the SKU # for that bearing. it was 150$ shipped to the door. the reason i didnt go with a standard cheap one is i can almost guarantee that if you take a super hard hit to the driveline, it will shock load the cast iron pillow block housing and crack the housing. from what iv found out is those standard cast iron once are super strong but you tap it wrong, or have super bad vibrations, it can crack. and that would suck.

personally i would just stay away from standard cast iron for a driveline application (although im sure there are people with them and havent had a problem), even a cast steel one would be better, at least you could weld it for a trail fix, best ones to use would be either stainless, or a forged steel housing.
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:28 PM   #660 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:27 PM   #661 (permalink)
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I think that pillow block looks bad ass!
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:25 AM   #662 (permalink)
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Putting any slip on the driveline between the t-case and pillow block?
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:55 PM   #663 (permalink)
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No you don't need to when you run a Cv joint
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:43 PM   #664 (permalink)
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Why would you need to when not running a cv?
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:14 PM   #665 (permalink)
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well i guess i should have said no slip no matter what. but at least its a constant velocity joint that way there's no joint bind or any slight inward outward motion with a standard u joint. dont know how to explain what im talking about, and hell maybe im full of shit, but either way you would never run a slip there anyways. unless for some reason you have a weird setup going on.
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:26 PM   #666 (permalink)
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ya, no need for a slip in that part of the shaft. when using a CV joint the two combine joints cancel out and forward and backward movement in the driveline. if he were using just a single ujoint at the tcase he would want a slip in there because as the single ujoint spins it creates minute forward and backward movement, and this would create a vibration without the slip in there to take up the movement.

he could run another CV off the flange of the center shaft if he has his pinion pointed directly at the flange, otherwise hell want to run single ujoints with the angles of both the pinion and the center shaft flange being the same and opposite.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

Ultimate Flexible Drive Shaft - YouTube

you should do this, so you have front dig!!
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:52 PM   #667 (permalink)
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thanks callen, basically summed up what i was trying to say. not good with explaining stuff like that in words
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:55 PM   #668 (permalink)
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all that video is, is a hydro static drive right...? cool idea, but not probable
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:40 PM   #669 (permalink)
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i have never seen one without a slip. didnt your factory drive line have a slip on the top drive line?
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:11 AM   #670 (permalink)
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Matt- Any of you guys figured out a york mount to run on a supercharged 3.4l. I need one and i need a pump too. Would like to have an aluminum housing york. Any help would be great!!!! Scot
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:17 AM   #671 (permalink)
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i have never seen one without a slip. didnt your factory drive line have a slip on the top drive line?
Nope
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:49 AM   #672 (permalink)
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I think he may have asked about the slip because of movement between the drivetrain and the rigid bearing mount? (motor mounts, etc.)
Personally, I like the way the OEM ones are mounted in rubber.

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Old 03-01-2012, 12:12 PM   #673 (permalink)
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In any transvers mounted motor, there should be no forward to back movement. Side to side yes, but no front to back.
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:57 PM   #674 (permalink)
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Yeah, tell that to my shifters as they move back and forth. Depends on how the drive train is mounted, but quite often there is some movement.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:01 PM   #675 (permalink)
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hey scot, about the york stuff... thats all up to karl and his build. mine was done a long time ago sorry.

and no theres no slip on the stock setup for the center driveline, and ya i would imagine if i had stock motor mounts or t case mounts i might bust something without having a slip...but my motor mounts, t case mounts, and bearing mounts are all the same polly bushing tube inserts. and if anything the bearing mount bushings will be able to move slightly more than the motor and drivetrain setup.

also the way i have the bearing mounted.. it is able to pivot on the mount bushing, and the pillow block is self aligning to the housing so even if there is forward or backward movement in the driveline the bearing can move with it and self alight. kinda hard to explain.

tomorrow when my drivelines are done i might take a video of it to show what im talking about. because im not even making sense to myself with words.
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