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Old 04-13-2012, 09:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Removing ball joint/stud from pitman arm?

How do you remove the ball joint/stud from a Toyota steering box?

I don't know what year the steering box is from, but it's a 3-hole mounting pattern. The box mounts outside the frame rail and the pitman arm points to the rear.

The part number stamped on it is 55140 and it says Toyoda.

Thanks!
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Why would you want to remove it?
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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hit the part that tapered joint goes into with a big hammer and repeat till falls off.
if high steered hit pitman. if ifs truck hit center link ect.. now delete this and stop wasting space
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you are trying to remove the pitman arm from the steering box, rent a pitman arm puller from autozone. If you plan on using an impact wrench with the puller, try and make sure the box is at mid travel. If neither of these tools are available, and you don't care about the pitman arm, you can put a small cut on the backside of it to relieve the pressure (but becarefull not to go too deep or you might damage the sector shaft.) If you are trying to remove the balljoint from the end of the pitman arm, grind the top cover off, and press the ball joint out. NEVER:

-Hit the end of the sector shaft where the threads are
-Pound downward on the pitman arm while it's attached to the truck

TRY NOT TO:

-Use a pickle fork to seperate the ball joint from steering linkages
-Turn the gear all the way to one side and hammer on it with an impact
-Beat the side of the steering box as you curse at it in a foreign language because it is 11:00 at night and you've been working all day on this dumb ass pitman arm with a gear puller that your buddy gave you because he said it would "do the trick", and all it does is continually slide off the end forcing you to drink and curse even more .

Post up if you have any more questions.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If I'm not mistaken op is trying to remove the "tierod" end out of the pitman arm. That's why I asked why would he want to do that.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Some company's sell tapered insert's you can weld into the pitman arm that fit the FJ80 rod end. You press out the ball joint, press in the insert, weld it together, and you have a pitman arm that works for highsteer. I couldn't tell from his post since he said he wanted to remove it from the box.

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Originally Posted by 85dhor View Post
If I'm not mistaken op is trying to remove the "tierod" end out of the pitman arm. That's why I asked why would he want to do that.
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sky makes an adapter that uses the stock taper stud on the pitman arm.

Skys text:

Toyota 23mm pitman arm adapter features FJ-80 tapered hole. Designed to adapt High Steer kit to stock pitman arm.

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Old 04-13-2012, 09:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help. . .especially Montezuma; the cover that needs ground off was what was throwing me off. I had no problems removing the pitman arm itself from the steering box with a gear puller, but the tie rod end was a different matter.

Appreciate the help!
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks again for the tip on grinding off the cap to get the TRE out. . .I'm guessing these aren't designed to be replaced like they are in Ford/Chevy/Dodge/Jeep vehicles.

Anyway I ground the cap off and pounded the TRE out; after that I ground the small lip off the top of the pitman, draw-filed it nice and flate, and now I'm gonna machine a 1.100" OD x .625" ID x .825" L press in sleeve with a lip to match the OD of the pitman arm itself. This will allow me to use this pitman arm on my '49 Jeep Willy's pick-up with Chevy D44 front axle. I've been dorking around with the steering on this truck for a while now and I think this is finally gonna take care of it so I can get this thing moving under it's own power (at least temporarily until I tear it back apart to replace the leaf springs with a 3-link and coil springs.

Once again, thanks for the help!!!
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Probably a stupid question, but you ARE using a toyota steering box (not a saginaw) on your willy's project correct? Did you machine the insert to take the same taper as the D44 steering linkages, or a through bolt for heim's?
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
Thanks again for the tip on grinding off the cap to get the TRE out. . .I'm guessing these aren't designed to be replaced like they are in Ford/Chevy/Dodge/Jeep vehicles.

Anyway I ground the cap off and pounded the TRE out; after that I ground the small lip off the top of the pitman, draw-filed it nice and flate, and now I'm gonna machine a 1.100" OD x .625" ID x .825" L press in sleeve with a lip to match the OD of the pitman arm itself. This will allow me to use this pitman arm on my '49 Jeep Willy's pick-up with Chevy D44 front axle. I've been dorking around with the steering on this truck for a while now and I think this is finally gonna take care of it so I can get this thing moving under it's own power (at least temporarily until I tear it back apart to replace the leaf springs with a 3-link and coil springs.

Once again, thanks for the help!!!
Thats how I did the pitman arm on my orginal setup (pressed out TRE, pressed/welded in sleeve).

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Old 04-15-2012, 10:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montezuma View Post
Probably a stupid question, but you ARE using a toyota steering box (not a saginaw) on your willy's project correct? Did you machine the insert to take the same taper as the D44 steering linkages, or a through bolt for heim's?
Yes, I am using a Toyota steering box and not a Saginaw. I have a Saginaw steering box, but with the vehicle still being leaf sprung the Toyota box allows a more protected mounting location vs. the Saginaw (stuck all the way out at the front of the frame rail). . .

. . .I don't know if this will be the steering box I ultimately stick with. The plan is to get rid of the leaf springs and run a 3-link with coilovers in the next year or tow, but I just wanna get this thing running so we can enjoy it for a while before I start changing more stuff.

I have not machined anything yet, but I will be machining a straight-walled insert sleeve for the pitman arm to accept a through bolt and a tapered sleeve insert for the steering arm to accept a through bolt. . .both ends of the drag link (and tie rod) will be running heim joints.

I hope that answered your question.
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Got both the press-fit (.0015" interference fit) straight-wall sleeve for the pitman arm and the slip-fit taper-wall sleeve for the steering arm machined today. . .one step closer to this beast moving on it's own!
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