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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98115
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 113
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Tis the season.. for half doors
finally got around to finishing my half doors. i used some swiss cheese doors that came with a cab i traded for some tires for a mini truck build. Anyways, I shopped around google and the forums to find a style I liked. I ended up using a combination of two styles I liked and added a viewing window to the passenger door because i wasnt sure how well it would work, and only one way to find out.
tape and marker combinations to get the look right, then the grinder ![]() covering up the handle hole ![]() ![]() ![]() passenger door the same.. if you can notice, i didnt notice until later on.. ![]() ![]() started my window thing ![]() and here you can see a mistake, or a difference in initial plans.. the top cut doesnt match side to side
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98115
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 113
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now i fixed the main cut shape
![]() back to drivers door ![]() passenger door getting better ![]() NOW the more helpful tech part, the door handle/latch modification new door handle ![]() specific tech: notice the difference, i drilled a hole that the factory plastic tab and therefore linkage will be able to attach to. i attached it to where the interior handle goes, so there is no risk of it locking and not opening(inside handle unlocks and opens in same motion) ![]() ![]() measure stuff, weld a bolt of same thread as aftermarket lock tabs(didnt trust 30 year old plastic and screw threads) ![]() ![]() metal work done i think
Last edited by bawright; 04-28-2012 at 07:36 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98115
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 113
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now on to the Electrolysis rust removal process
![]() 12$kiddie pool, 4$ of washing soda and my battery charger and jumper cables(two pieces at once connected) and a junk trailer wheel or any other waste metal. sorry i didnt really take any pictures before of the rust, but based on the after shots im sure you will get the idea ![]() ![]() during ![]() ![]() cut out an easy section to replace with angle iron i had sitting around the garage, give it some strength and a backing for bondo(eh, their half doors not a restoration..lol) ![]() ![]() some of the swiss cheese action ![]() i sanded them down and converted any leftover or flash rust, and etched the healthy metal i exposed when sanding
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98115
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 113
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test fit before bondo
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() (my toyota trailblazer with the fiberglass top off) after bondo and first application of primer ![]() ![]() had some pinholes and imperfections i hit again and then reprimed them then Paint! ![]() ![]()
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#6 (permalink) |
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Stay the Trail
Join Date: Mar 2001
Member # 3937
Location: Fruita, CO
Posts: 1,653
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Those are some nice half doors.
I really like the window idea.
__________________
Mike Boyle 1980 Toyota PU "Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not..." - Thomas Jefferson. Battlement Fab |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98115
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 113
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Tis the season.. for half doors
im painting the truck flat black with gloss trim, so i did the doors black to motivate me to get the rest of the body fixed and painted.
i know i need armor ASAP, and some other stuff in the works. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() i gotta get tube to connect the factory roll bars Soon!! ![]() ![]() close up of new handles, pull up 1/4" or so, less leverage than a handle makes it sturdy and kid proof, but any older kid or adult hasn't had a problem (the ugly stuff on the cab is what was under the factory fiberglass topper, the cap's that connect the bed and cab are screwed on and sealed with silicone or something. going to remove them and store with all the other original parts i can gather. and put the original truck vents back in and connect bed and cab with steel.) ![]() ![]() I know my truck is naked, Ordering metal next week so i can get some armor made as soon as i get the body straight and a soft top made. pronto That's all i have for the half doors for now. i will do interior panels and a plexiglass window with it on the passenger side, although no crazy whistle (makes an awesome breeze),i just dont wanna have crap fall out. A cool thing with the lines i cut, the factory sr5 door handle/arm rest follow the cut out great and will look perfect when they install, 1st gen guys might be able to visualize what im talking about. otherwise just wait for me to get around to finishing and posting more pics. Last edited by bawright; 04-28-2012 at 08:11 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 123101
Location: La Crescenta
Posts: 618
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Those are nice ! Good job...
__________________
85 Yota shortbed, 5.29's,detroit, 6 shooters,,30splines, spool, duals w/ 4.7's, beadlocks,37 Pitbulls... still not done ------------------------------ 2003 F250 Crewcab sb v10 |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Member # 179190
Location: Vancouver WA
Posts: 262
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good work!
probably some of the best half doors ive seen in a while. just missing cup holders lol
__________________
"Abraham Lincoln may have freed the slaves but Sam Colt made them all equal again" |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
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Very nicely done! I like the window idea - that's a new one. Also interested to see the electrolysis done on that big a scale. I've done it in a fair sized Tupperware container for tools and such, but a kiddie pool sized one gives me some new ideas. How long did you leave it in for?
__________________
GET INVOLVED - Join the Blue Ribbon Coalition SIGN THE PETITION - SAVETHEHAMMERS - #85 '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500 NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 170K '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild) |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98115
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 113
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Thanks guys. I left the doors in there for 2 days. but i think i needed to stir the solution again because it didn't seem to do much the second day and i could see the solution had settled quite a bit.
this was my first time messing with electrolysis. i was concerned i wouldn't have enough juice for the two doors connected with jumper cables. I read somewhere you could use an old stick welder or batteries too, so maybe next time i'll try adding some batteries to supplement the charger or borrow a welder for extra current/amp/whatever. but all in all i was pleased, even if i could have done better with one door, stronger electricty source, or stirring/remixing the solution the second day. It still got a LOT of rust off of a LOT of hard to reach places. in the pictures where you can see the swiss cheese it was AFTER i converted whatever flash and leftover rust with "ospho". it looked like some areas were either still a little rusty or just looked like it from being rusty with the texture/pitting and discoloration. I wasnt sure, so i "cover yer ass" with rust converter/etching stuff to be safe. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98115
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 113
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cup holders:
i have an idea for cup holders when i do door panels or just going to get some of those boat double axis tilt all over cup holders rather then the recessed/frenched in style.
Last edited by bawright; 04-29-2012 at 06:42 AM. |
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