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Old 01-14-2003, 10:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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22re rough idle miss

I have a 22re and have been chasing a problem for a while. My engine idles rough, has poor gas mileage, and when crusing and accelerating it seems to hesitate or have a loss of power! this thing is pissing me off! I have a new cap, rotor,plugs, wires,fuel filter, air filter, t-chain, headgasket. TPS adjustment done. help me please!!!
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Old 01-14-2003, 11:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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TRY a new Cat converter this really helps mine every 2-3 yrs =$99.00 Installed.I get the 2.25"

+ a GOOD quality 02 Exzost sensor too. = $ 50.-$79.99 SOLDER Wire to old factory connector,EFI wont be happy with a CRIMP!

170 - 180 thermo stat = cant hurt.

Tell us what fixed it.

Hope this will help,cant hurt,
All the $$ You have spent!!!!!
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Old 01-15-2003, 12:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 22re rough idle miss

Quote:
Originally posted by cbr954rr
I have a 22re and have been chasing a problem for a while. My engine idles rough, has poor gas mileage, and when crusing and accelerating it seems to hesitate or have a loss of power! this thing is pissing me off! I have a new cap, rotor,plugs, wires,fuel filter, air filter, t-chain, headgasket. TPS adjustment done. help me please!!!
Mine acted the same way and from replacing everything under the hood electronically from a different vehicle, I narrowed it down to the ECU. Put a good used one in and now she runs good
Danny
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Old 01-15-2003, 05:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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do you think a bad alternator could be the cause? everything on the truck has 150,000 miles on it, exept every thing listed, I also had the injectors clean and blueprinted.



how did you narrow it down to the ecu?
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Old 01-15-2003, 06:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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no.. a bad alt should not cause this, but if it has REAL low voltage, i guess it could, but then u wouldnt be able to drive it anyways. did u check for comp. codes?

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Old 01-15-2003, 06:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i just checked for codes and it didn't give me any. the strange thing is that my toyota manual says that it should flash two times per a second but it doesn't flash at all? what does this mean, is toyota wrong?
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Old 01-17-2003, 10:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You check carefully for vacume leaks? Check the intake manifold gasket with some carb cleaner. I had simular symptoms and finally found a crack in the air intake tube where it makes a 90* in front of the throttle body heading towards the AFM. It was in the bottom side and I finally saw it because of the dust buildup in the tube... you could only see it when it got twisted a little.
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Old 01-17-2003, 10:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by paniolo
You check carefully for vacume leaks? Check the intake manifold gasket with some carb cleaner. I had simular symptoms and finally found a crack in the air intake tube where it makes a 90* in front of the throttle body heading towards the AFM. It was in the bottom side and I finally saw it because of the dust buildup in the tube... you could only see it when it got twisted a little.
I second this, I ws having the same problems as you but it got real bad out at JV. A buddy of mine tweaks the 90 and the engine just dies out. The flex tube going into the manifold was cracked. Half roll of good electrical tape later and the engine ran fine.

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Old 01-17-2003, 10:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeepRecoveryTeam


I second this, I ws having the same problems as you but it got real bad out at JV. A buddy of mine tweaks the 90 and the engine just dies out. The flex tube going into the manifold was cracked. Half roll of good electrical tape later and the engine ran fine.

Dave
I third this: Mine has had duct tape holding it together for 6 months
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Old 01-17-2003, 01:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I`ll throw a 4th in there, but before you check for leaks, are you sure that the timing isnt off? And as for codes, it should blink once when the computer finds no faults, I forget the interval in between blinks, but you should be getting a single flash.
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Old 01-17-2003, 07:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I check for cracks, found none. the ecu does not even blink once it just stays on! I already checked for vacuum leaks , spray the intake down with carb cleaner, no leaks their either.
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Old 01-17-2003, 07:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally posted by cbr954rr
I check for cracks, found none. the ecu does not even blink once it just stays on! I already checked for vacuum leaks , spray the intake down with carb cleaner, no leaks their either.
are you sure your shorting the right conecter for the ECU reading?if it's not blinking some thing is wrong ether your in the rong hole or something is wrong with the ecu
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Old 01-17-2003, 07:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I am sure I double checked because it didn't seem right to me either.
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Update us !

What happened ? Did you figure out the cause of your miss ?

I'm experiencing the same symptoms and have replaced & checked the same items and still can't locate the cause
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Old 06-12-2003, 11:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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One blink every 5 seconds is normal (no codes.)
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Old 06-12-2003, 12:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I still haven't figured it out. any help would be appreciated!
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Old 06-12-2003, 12:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Replace the EGR valve. Try the PCV first though -its cheaper and easier. Pretty sure its the EGR though.
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Old 06-12-2003, 01:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Check for exhaust leak. Mine ran rough when there was an exhaust leak. Have someone block the exhaust pipe, and listen for leak sound. Check all the exhaust bolts for tightness including the down pipe. Manifold will warp if bolts are loose. Exhaust leak will screw up the O2 sensor reading.

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Old 06-12-2003, 03:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Let us know what you find. I have a similar problem on my toy. No codes but it has an erratic idle. I've replaced just about everything but the ecu and it still does this. I guess it's time to try a different ECU.
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Old 06-13-2003, 06:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
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cbr954rr: I ran a few fuel delivery checks yesterday to make sure I didn't have any short in any of the wiring to the injectors. I also double checked all the injectors. Everything seemed good.

So just for the hell of it I pulled the valve cover one more time and re-ran the valve clearances. They seemed a little tight, but not too drastic. I did back a few of them off .001"

Fired the truck back up and wha-da-ya-know.....the miss/stumble was gone. I'm just glad I didn't dump anymore money into buying new injectors I must have just had a valve that was hangin' open just slightly.

Morale of 'my' story...always check the stuff that doesn't cost ya' any $$$ FIRST ! Then start replacing parts
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Old 06-13-2003, 03:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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mine doesn't run bad all the time. sometimes cold sometimes hot. the injectors have been cleaned and balanced. Where in the injector harness are the wires most likely to short?sometimes i can do 70mph barely on the gas sometimes floored!
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Old 06-13-2003, 03:43 PM   #22 (permalink)
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replace the whole pcv system, grommet, hose and valve?
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Old 06-14-2003, 05:33 AM   #23 (permalink)
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LC Engineering tech told me that almost all of the missing - rough idle problems he sees on 22RE are caused by the EGR. I had similar problems... chased it for a long time and finally he told me to simply pull the small vacuum hose connection to the EGR, plug it, and the problems disappeared.

Later on I had a hesitation problem that turned out to be a bad connection to the ECU - R&R the ECU connections, - disconnect, clean them, make sure there's no dust etc, replace and problem went away.

Also, to mixitup, what you really did was probably fixed a signficant vacuum leak through valve cover. Backing off the valve lash is not likely to correct a stuck open valve. I have seen major EFI problems cured by replacement of an oil filler cap that was cracked and leaking - I bet you probably had a big vac leak that you fixed in the process of adjusting the valves.

HTH
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