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The Gremlin build - small, linked, ugly beater truck

39K views 150 replies 38 participants last post by  YotaAtieToo 
#1 ·
I figured it'd make more sense to start a new build thread, since the ECORS Stock Class IFS race truck is well, no longer an ECORS stock class ifs....:homer:


I'm combining the good parts of my buddy's truck that has taken up permanent residence at my house with the chassis of the race truck to gain a cage, EFI, seats, harnesses, and non-Flintsone-esque floor boards.

Ecors race truck as seen at it's last race:




Donor truck: front axle with Dirty 30s, Longfield hub gears, aussie locker, 4.7 geared case, 34 LTBs on alum wheels... and the engine/trans/rear axle is good too, but will be relegated to spare parts.

Body is garbage, wiring is garbage


 
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#2 · (Edited)
The PLAN:

buggy out the front end (while keeping stock radiator location and mech fan/shroud)
3 link w/ panhard
12" FOX air shocks
full hydro steering (not sure on DE or SE ram yet...)
dual cases, 4.7 rear
Sch 40 drive shafts
ax the bed
relocate gas tank to behind cab
4 link rear end
"free parking brake mod"






So fresh so clean

Donor
 
#3 · (Edited)
I considered cutting the frame off, but honestly after staring at it for a while, can't see that I would gain anything, considering that I'm planning on keeping the stock radiator location and previously fabbed winch plate.

Where the axle is in the pics below is at 5.5" of bump travel from ride height (chassis level, stock rear springs with AAL, so we'll say 2" of lift?)

I may run air bumps in the front too... since I have a set just hanging out on the shelf


The front will be getting links much like the "Stock Runner", short links, all the same length, all interchangeable. with some initial measurements from today, it's looking like I'll run 24" eye-to-eye length, all links will be 1.5x.25" wall DOM with 3/4x3/4 rod ends.



 
#9 ·
Yeah I got the links in place this weekend. Got a bunch of other stuff going on too, so I only get in a few hours here and there. Had engagement pictures this Saturday, yard work, etc...

I'm gonna tinker on it in the morning, I'll get some pics then and update
 
#11 ·
Little links


Upper link bracket... Bent a tab, piece of scrap, nut is welded to the inside (will be inside frame)



Little notch for the diff and panhard clearance. I cut the notch with the plasma, stuck a chunk of 5"x2" rect tube in the hole, welded it up, then plasma'd off the tube that wasn't part of the notch. Easy.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Gonna run one of these:

Surplus Center - 2.5x8x1.5 DA DOUBLE ROD HYD CYL




And gonna do a TC pump swap same way I did it on the StockRunner, but using this pump instead of a 1650 TG pump:
(1990 4cyl S10)

or 89 Corvette



Not really sure what the extra machined spot on the housing of the 'Vette pump is. I'll check em out.

Might go with the super high flow 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee pump. Not quite as "easy" though since it's not setup for remote resi from the factory.

 
#24 ·
^^ nice breakdown

i was totally expecting an AMC gremlin/toyota frankenstein in here. truck looks bitchin man as mentioned, that's some very impressive uptravel. any attempt to make it "street able?"
 
#26 ·
Streetable is a VERY loose concept where I live.

I don't really have a reason to make it a good legal road driver, I've got tow rig and a Tacoma "fishing truck"..but I'm sure it will drive fine on the road. It will get limited road use.

The ol Stock Runner got driven to the river some, and now gets driven to the local trails by it's new owner. But it hasnt been tagged or insured in several years, heck it doesn't even have tail lights...
 
#34 ·
Got a lil bit done this weekend. Mainly clearancing and triple checking everything before it gets burned in solid.

Got the bed cut apart and out of the way, removed my corbeau XPs and prp harnesses and fitted tristans corbeau bajs seats with chassis unlimited sliders, and some crow harnesses.





Rebuilt the one bad airshock and got the airbumps in place.

If you notice the gussets on them, they are 1"x3" 11 gauge tube, cut on 45°. Makes awesome clean strong gussets. I'll set up and cut 20-30 at a time and throw em in a bin. Oh...and it's cheap too.



Cut some knuckle gussets out of some 3/16" wall tube scraps.
 
#35 ·
Whats the distance of your axle centerline at full.stuff.and your frame? I like what you did.with your panhars bar but since I'm hydro assist i nees to make mine longer. my limiting factor on uptravel is my draglink hitting frame and oil pan. stock toy axles without cutting the frame at full stuff my axle.centerline is 22" and my frame to ground is 23". just curious.as.to what your.numbers are because it looks "stuffed!"
 
#36 ·
Mine is the same. 23" to frame (at the flat part under the seats). 22" axle center line at full straight bump.

16" axle center line at ride height.


This rig is lifted a bit over stock suspension
 
#39 ·
Got a diaper welded on the diff and drain plug deleted



Everything welded on the axle, gusset on the upper link mount, cleaned up etc



Simple angle iron core support, even re used the factory hood prop (cut down), narrowed up the hood and mounted the grille to it

 
#40 · (Edited)
Orbital (7.6 cu in) and steering column all mocked up


Super ricer intake setup. Bout $70 of parts (including filter) from advance auto. They have the parts in stock and I know exactly which parts I need so it wasn't really worth my time to try and save money here


"conversion fitting" -6 jic fitting brazed onto the stock pressure line fitting. Didn't want to spend any $ on a "real" conversion fitting since I may not stick with the Toyota pump. Also chopped up the stock coolant pipe (shortened both ends) and rerouted outside the alternator. Should still be able top change alt without dropping coolant line.
 
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