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Old 12-13-2001, 11:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Toyota SAS vs Dana 44 SAS

I'm going to attempt to get the SAS done by April... my question is what is the cost difference between the toyota and the dana 44 swap? I'm kind of strapped for cash and plan on going in steps. Do you recommend just going straight to the dana 44 or possibly start out with toyota axles and plan for the 44 next year? Let me know what you guys have found..

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Old 12-13-2001, 11:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, if it helps any, I picked up my dana 44 for $150 from the junkyard. After replacing all of the bearings, converting to high steer and setting up the gears I had spent around $1000 (including the 150) to have a ready-to-go dana 44 (open carrier).
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Old 12-13-2001, 12:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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And for making your first post while still being the "newest member" to the board I will say:

Go fawking search you fawkin newbie

Even though I can't recall this same exact question being asked before.
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Old 12-13-2001, 12:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you do a search you can find alot more info....

but as for as the swap.... It's going to close as to the cost... D44- may be able to pick up for $300-400 if you're lucky. Toy I think is going $250-400. Keep in mind that you have to match gear ratios in the toy rear/Dana front. Not sure how high you can get for both. But you can upgrade the toy axle w/ stronger berfields to equal out the over all streignth(openions will vary)
Have to consider the Width of the Dana also.



In the long run I think they are going to cost close to the same. I went with the toy axle due sence the 3rds can drop out easly and can be swaped to either axle if one fails, plus working on them is a touch easier....

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Old 12-13-2001, 12:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's a tough call If you have nothing bought yet and don't care about keeping it "Toyota" I'd seriously consider a D44. I'm using the Toyota front for a few reasons:
-The 3rd members are interchangeable (I'm running a Detroit rear with a Lock Rite front) I plan to put the Detroit in the front and get a spool for the rear when it's a devoted trailer queen.
-I got a killer deal on the complete F/R axles with Hi-Steer
-No need to mess with spring perches
-For the Midwest wheelin' it's plenty strong for me...I hope
-To have matching R/R gears, you can only go with 4.88's, and I like what the 5.29's give me for power

Some of the bad:
-Birfs are a messy PITA to change
-Narrower than a D44

That's all I can think of at the moment. Even though I know there is more.

Cost wise Here's a break down on what I've spent lately on just the swap stuff. I've also bought beadlocks, dual tcase adapter, extra tcase, skid plate, winch, twin stick, but I won't include them because they aren't really part of the SAS.
-front shackles $30
-44044's $260
-All Pro rear 5.5" $325
-Detroit Soft Locker $375 (bought it new from a guy that no longer wanted it?)
-Axles $1150 to my door (had 5.29's, Lock Rite Front, welded rear and hi-steer with the tire rod and drag link)
-Front Spring hanger $8 worth of steel
-Frame shackle mount tubes and bushings $30
-FJ40? rotors to go to vented disks $80?
-Used All Pro wheel spacers $75
-Rear spring mounts $?
-ubolt flip plates $75
-9012 Front Shocks $120
-5012 Rears $100 for 4 used ones
-Ford shock towers $30~

I'm sure there is some stuff left out like 38x12.5" SX's, but the grand total is....cringe cringe....$2658!! Holly crap that is way more than I thought!! Now minus these numbers.
-$800 for the front and rear diff w/4.88's and EZ Lockers
-$600~ for all the lift stuff (once it's sold)
-$85 for the CV axles
I've also bought two complete solid axels for $100 total and parted them out and have at least tripled my money on those. Now I have 4 spare birfs, some extra hubs, and a ton of other shit too.

So around $1173. Not to bad I guess. As far as it being cheaper than a D44 swap, that's hard to say. My buddy is doing an SAS to his 95.5 Tacoma using a D44 and he's spent quite a bit as well I think it's pretty much a wash on price. If I were to do it again and I hadn't stumbled on those axles, I'd go D44 simply for the ease of changing axles, and they are stronger (marginally) than the toyotas as well.

Anymore ?'s let me know

Last edited by Bones; 12-13-2001 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 12-13-2001, 08:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Having done both, go D44. It's a MUCH stronger setup than birfields and even these "SUPER" birfields haven't been proven yet. It's also much cheaper in the long run due to the cost of brand new axles from Dana/Spicer as opposed to twenty year old birfs or new replacements. There are drawbacks as others have mentioned but the D44 is a stronger axle overall which would get my vote if I were starting over.
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Old 12-13-2001, 08:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You can't go lower than 4.88.......

..yes you can you use the 5.29's in the rear and 5.38's in the front. I had the locked up yota frontend and changing weak ass birfields sucks. The only people who will tell you that a 44 is marginally stronger than a birfield are those who have birfs. I've been the yota route and wished I'd gone 44 to start with, O'yeah fullwidth kicks ass.
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Old 12-13-2001, 10:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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the cost difference is going to be negligible. If you think that you may want a 44 later, do it now, it'll be cheaper in the long run, because Toy spring hangers will only match up to a csutom width 44, which is very expensive. Use a wagoneer D44, it is only 1" wider than toy IFS, which is good, if anything. I run 5.38's in the front and 5.29's in th rear, there is enough slack in the drivetrain for that small of a difference. You'll ahve to outboard your frame for the shackle hangers, not a big deal at all, I can send you pics of mine if you would like. The 44 is much stronger and worth doing, I only wanted to do mine once so I went with the 44, I have a custom chevy housing though( it's been narrowed adn ahd the pinion angle turned up 7 degrees), but my hangers are stock width for that axle, so when I go to full width axles, I just have to unblot my current axle and roll the new one underneath my truck. I can speak from experience that custom axles are expensive. I had to have everythign custom made, tie rod, drag link, both axle shafts, it adds up, if you use the wagoneer axle, you can use wagoneer tie rod and drag link and wagoneer axles, all of which can be found at a local junk yard. You'll have to cut and grind the passenger side of the housing to get a spring perch on it, but it's not a big deal, it's done all of the time by jeepers doing spring over conversions. With all of this said, do the 44. Pm me for pics or any more info. ErikB has a website that I found very helpful when I did mine.
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