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Old 03-30-2004, 03:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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JB weld ?

my 20R has a bolt hole that is stripped , it is one for the exhaust at the back of the head , can I just fill the hole with some JB weld and jam the stud in , this is a temp fix till I can swap in my 22RE
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Old 03-30-2004, 04:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yes it is a good temperary fix I did it to 2 exaust studs. I also drilled a small 3/32 thru the head and thru the stud bolts then I put a pin and jb welded it in there. Held up till I did my rebuild and got a good head. It lasted about 6 months.
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Old 03-30-2004, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I haven't done it for a while, but when I had stripped bolts from the exhaust to the head. I would just retap them and go one step higher using standard bolts. Worked for me no drilling holes bigger in exhaust or anything, just remember they are there if you ever take them out, so that you don't get them mixed up with the stock metric ones. Just giving you an idea.
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Old 03-30-2004, 06:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 4Runnerdude
I haven't done it for a while, but when I had stripped bolts from the exhaust to the head. I would just retap them and go one step higher using standard bolts. Worked for me no drilling holes bigger in exhaust or anything, just remember they are there if you ever take them out, so that you don't get them mixed up with the stock metric ones. Just giving you an idea.
I like that idea better. I have NEVER had success with JB weld. IMHO JB weld stands for Junk Booger weld
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Old 03-30-2004, 06:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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NAPA sells kits with the tap and helicoils, extra helicoils if you know what I mean.
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Old 03-30-2004, 06:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I did the same thing to one of my manifold bolts. Still holding up a year later
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Old 03-30-2004, 06:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Coop 50
NAPA sells kits with the tap and helicoils, extra helicoils if you know what I mean.
If I decide to go this route , what size do I need or how do I find out out what size do you have a part#, It's on a 1980 20R
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Use the helicoil, that way you stay with the stock stud bolt.

The size for an 87 22RE is M10 X 1.25

helicoil part # 5543-10

You said exhaust manifold to head stud right?

The kit seems pricy but you will use it more than once, trust me.
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Chevy rocker studs

tap and go!
I was told about this easy "fix" and it really is as easy as it sounds.
(7/16x14 or 16 tap)
The studs are the shoulderless rocker studs from a SB Chevy.
El cheaper than helicoil and won't pull out
Danny
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Raptorman57


I like that idea better. I have NEVER had success with JB weld. IMHO JB weld stands for Junk Booger weld
Really! JB weld has gotten me out of a couple pinches. For a short term desparation fix , JB is king. Easy to carry and holds pretty decent. Jb quick works allright to.
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I always use JB Quick Weld and it has been a great lifesaver over the years!!!! Never travel without it!
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Old 04-03-2004, 12:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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These work good too

Just remember to grind off the little collar or sink them in a bit so you dont hang up on the collar when installing your manifold. You should be able to just retap as the size isnt that much larger so no drilling should be needed.Learned this from another thread.
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Old 04-03-2004, 12:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by B.E.R


Really! JB weld has gotten me out of a couple pinches. For a short term desparation fix , JB is king. Easy to carry and holds pretty decent. Jb quick works allright to.


It got bawz fixed at EC4RJ at Paragon last year(ripped out the drain plug in the rear diff.) Good thing I had some in my tool box.
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Old 04-03-2004, 02:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Helicoil complete kit from napa is Part# 7703020
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Old 04-03-2004, 09:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ganoid
These work good too

are these the right size studs
MRG Rocker Studs (3/8")
Part#: 1075
Price: $32.99
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Old 04-04-2004, 04:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Old 06-11-2004, 05:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Come on Ganoid - spill it. I've got 3 stripped exhaust stud holes that need to be fixed.
Thanks.
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Old 06-11-2004, 05:57 PM   #18 (permalink)
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only success ive had with JB weld is to cover up real welds that looked like ass
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Old 06-11-2004, 06:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booger Weldz
only success ive had with JB weld is to cover up real welds that looked like ass
you must've gone through that stuff by the case
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Old 06-11-2004, 06:51 PM   #20 (permalink)
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you must've gone through that stuff by the case
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Old 06-11-2004, 08:01 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Factory stud - 10mm = .3937"
I think I might put 7/16" (top and bottom) studs in place of the 3 bad holes I have in my head - 7/16" = .4375" (a little over 11mm = .4331")
Do the holes need to be drilled first or I can I skip that and go right to the 7/16" tap?
I'm pretty sure all the original threads in each of the holes are gone. I planned on cleaning them out real well first then having at it with the tap. The main reason for asking being I think it's going to be a bitch to fit my drill down in the engine bay in the right spots and make straight runs - 2 front most holes are bad (top and bottom) and the rear most top hole is bad too.
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Old 06-11-2004, 08:31 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runnerdude
I haven't done it for a while, but when I had stripped bolts from the exhaust to the head. I would just retap them and go one step higher using standard bolts. Worked for me no drilling holes bigger in exhaust or anything, just remember they are there if you ever take them out, so that you don't get them mixed up with the stock metric ones. Just giving you an idea.
This pretty much answers my question! Doh...
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Old 06-11-2004, 10:52 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You might get by with the JB weld, I would use it with the combination of a bigger SAE bolt to try and catch what little material there is to grab, it will get you by till you can do the helicoil. You need to pull the head to get to that rear bolt, drilling, tapping, the works. If you pull the head, you might as well put inserts in all the holes to prevent future occurance, also, studs in all rather than bolts work great. Oh yeah, something better than a helicoil, look for an insert called Timesert. I have these, they are a better design, faster to install. You can go to their home page to check em out. www.timesert.com
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Old 06-12-2004, 01:52 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booger Weldz
i know what your welds looked like, I'm still running your old sliders
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Old 06-12-2004, 06:08 AM   #25 (permalink)
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POS - thanks for the info. The Timeserts look quality.
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