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Old 08-20-2001, 06:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Post 22R Teardown, Carb/Grease Deposits, HELP

I was tearing down my 22R today and i noticed this buildup of grease and carbon like material in this part. I have no idea what the part is. I think it is a smog/vacuum component, but it mounts above the intake manifold. can anyone tell me what this is? and what it means that all this is gunked up like it is. Also ive noticed that many people have plated off there smog equipment and totally negated it. is there a block off plate kit or a write up as to how to do this? too many hoses and useless pipes around the intake, i want to clean it up and i dont live in CA so it doesnt matter to me or the state. thanks for any info.


<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/carbon_dep1.jpg">


<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/carbon_dep2.jpg">


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Old 08-20-2001, 06:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It is your EGR system (exhaust gas recirculation). Chip away as much as you can then soak in oven cleaner. NOT IN OVEN. You can block it off if you have no emissions laws, but may notice some pinging. The propose of the EGR is to reduce NOX by lowering cylinder temps.
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Old 08-22-2001, 07:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I disconnected all that stuff the same time I added parts to increase the horsepower. My emissions are better now than they were at the start. I added headers, high flow exhaust, Weber 32/36 carb, K&N air filter, Crane high energy ignition and coil, cam with more duration and lift, distributor with a different advance curve. The only emission stuff I still have hooked up is the PCV valve, breather tube to air cleaner, and catalytic converter. I haven't put on the blocking plates yet, but I guess LC Engineering sells some of them, I think most people just make them.
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Old 08-22-2001, 07:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Its your EGR, like the guy above said clean it ouff and put it back in if you have EFI, otherwise your asking for trouble. you can take it off if you have carb and not have problems but don't expect more than maybe 30 to 40 thousand miles on it if you don't put it back on
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Old 08-22-2001, 08:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yup, that thingy in the last picture is your EGR valve. Mine is blocked off, yeah there is a kit, it's called beer can. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Seriously, take an empty beer or soda can, cut out a gasket the same shape but without the hole in it, stick it down in there and tighten the bolts. My 22R ran like CRAP when I put it back together, the I discovered why the EGR was blocked off when I took it apart, it was busted. So, I blocked it off again, and now it runs great.

Oh, and as for the other carbon and junk in the head passages, the best tool I found for getting that stuff out was a dental pick and a flashlight. Seriously, next time you're at the dentist, ask if they have any dull ones they're about to throw away. They will usually give them to ya.
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Old 08-22-2001, 08:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by vandert:
<STRONG>you can take it off if you have carb and not have problems but don't expect more than maybe 30 to 40 thousand miles on it if you don't put it back on</STRONG>
Could you elaborate on this? Not sure what you mean. <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
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Old 08-23-2001, 06:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Actually the EGR valve does not lower cylinder temperature.

Exhuast gas is all but unburnable. When this gas is introduced into the combustion chamber with fresh air and fuel, it increases the flash point of the new mixture. By doing this, it helps eliminate detonation/pinging caused by excessive heat in the combustion chamber. By reburning the exhaust gas, it does cut down on emissions from the vehicle.

I'm not running one on my hybrid right now because I have an aftermarket header that blocks off the EGR ports under the exhuast ports. I might try to weld in a tube into my header and run it to the EGR port in the head. Then it can make it's trip through the coolant passage and over to the EGR valve.

I'm running 28* base timing with 42* total advance. I have to run premimum fuel to keep it from pinging. So if I have a functioning EGR system, I might be able to run cheaper fuel.
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Old 08-23-2001, 09:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad:
<STRONG>Actually the EGR valve does not lower cylinder temperature.

Exhuast gas is all but unburnable. When this gas is introduced into the combustion chamber with fresh air and fuel, it increases the flash point of the new mixture. By doing this, it helps eliminate detonation/pinging caused by excessive heat in the combustion chamber. By reburning the exhaust gas, it does cut down on emissions from the vehicle.


.</STRONG>
Oh, really, i beg to differ...

EGR is considered a `metered intake leak' and reduces the combustion temperatures below 2,500 [degrees] 17--the threshold where [NO.sub.x] is created. Not unlike putting a brick in your toilet tank to lower the volume of water used, the EGR valve meters a readily available inert gas (exhaust) into the combustion chamber to effectively reduce the volume. Smaller effective displacement means less fire, and less heat, thereby controlling [NO.sub.x] emissions.
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Old 08-23-2001, 12:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That is a good point. Sounds like a combination between your facts and mine. I see what you mean about displacing the amount of air/fuel allowed into the chamber thus reducing combusion heat.

But the exhuast gas is unburnable(inert) and will also increase the flash point of the mixture that it does mix with. With the higher flash point, detonation or "dieseling" won't occur. With a low flash point, the fuel wont ignite with hust the compression and heat like a diesel.

This is where the octane rating on fuel comes in.(which I was confusing with the EGR system) People think that just by running higher octane fuel, their car will run better. The only thing that higher octane does is increase the flash point of the fuel. If a car is pinging on 87, yeah, it will probably run better on 89 or 93 just for the fact that it is getting a proper and complete burn.

Thanks for the response. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
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Old 08-23-2001, 03:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chad:
<STRONG>That is a good point. Sounds like a combination between your facts and mine. I see what you mean about displacing the amount of air/fuel allowed into the chamber thus reducing combusion heat.

But the exhuast gas is unburnable(inert) and will also increase the flash point of the mixture that it does mix with. With the higher flash point, detonation or "dieseling" won't occur. With a low flash point, the fuel wont ignite with hust the compression and heat like a diesel.

This is where the octane rating on fuel comes in.(which I was confusing with the EGR system) People think that just by running higher octane fuel, their car will run better. The only thing that higher octane does is increase the flash point of the fuel. If a car is pinging on 87, yeah, it will probably run better on 89 or 93 just for the fact that it is getting a proper and complete burn.

Thanks for the response. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Ya, that is how i saw it, and that info came from notes i took years ago, and plus I work around this stuff all day long....

I guess if you were to look at it, flash point reacts to the chamber temperatures, thus decreesing the detonation, i think that will help those who might be a little confused with all the big words,LOL...

I know in this industry though, people look at no detonation as better running, so that could also be some confusion to the comment "my car runs better on good fuels"
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Old 08-24-2001, 05:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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thanks for all the replies. Im going to clean it out and keep it on. I didnt notice any problems with it before i took it apart, so i dont think its a big deal. This teardown is a nightmare. Its so dirty, its absolutly rediculous. Im just resealing it, but i guess I should throw in a new cam while at it, i have to take the head off anyways to replace that gasket. might as well do a new water pump too. Anything else anyone suggests? Do i really have to hone the cylinders doing a rebuild?
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