Load sensing proportioning valve ???

[hellojello74]

alright i was wondering what you guys are doing with the Load sensing proportioning valve are you running it or by passing or how are you doing it i am running a eliptical system so i think it would be hard to run from at the back what about doing something like whats in cars where its programed to automatically do 60/40 braking im just wondering what you guys are doing and how it works, its a semi dd at least its road worthy to get to and from trails at least once its finished.
thanks for help

[4CrawlR]

Here's what I did with mine many years ago:



More info:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve

[Izeloz]

I replaced mine with a Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve. Works great.

[SR5Dave]

Put a manual prop valve in there, the stock LSPV was a great idea, but is unreliable, and doesn't really work that well. Get a manual prop valve, tune it just right and Toys will stop on a dime. I outbraked my friend in an Audi Although I think a lot of that was knowing how to threshold brake properly.

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by Izeloz

I replaced mine with a Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve. Works great.

this is the same thing i did.

[4CrawlR]

Originally Posted by surlynkid

this is the same thing i did.

I'll be doing the same shortly.

[Lord Orange]

if you don't want to replace it yet, just cut the arm short and zip strip it pointing up but the prop valve from summit is the deal.

[Raptorman57]

This is where a I put mine

[OOP'S]

Originally Posted by Raptorman57

This is where a I put mine

Ditto!!!!!

[CT18fireman]

My valve rotted out, since I run a lot of weight in the back and tow, I am not worried about locking up the brakes. They never really worked well before so i want a lot of brake. I have two lines running to the rear which are damaged as is the line from the valve to the rear soft line. I have a flare tool so i can make the necessary lines up. How do I go about eliminating the valve? Can I just use a tee to bring the lines together or is one a return that needs to be plugged?

I need to get this truck running again.

[OOP'S]

Originally Posted by CT18fireman

My valve rotted out, since I run a lot of weight in the back and tow, I am not worried about locking up the brakes. They never really worked well before so i want a lot of brake. I have two lines running to the rear which are damaged as is the line from the valve to the rear soft line. I have a flare tool so i can make the necessary lines up. How do I go about eliminating the valve? Can I just use a tee to bring the lines together or is one a return that needs to be plugged?

I need to get this truck running again.

One is a feed, one is a bypass that sends the fluid to the front. There is a "T" on the passenger side front wheel well. Disconnect the return line at the "T" and plug the "T". When you take the valve there is an arrow that shows the flow direction. I took the feed line off the valve and was able to bend it down to the mount where the soft line from the rearend hooks up and screw it into the soft line. Bend it slowely so you do not get any kings!!!!!!!

[3Wheel_Drive]

Originally Posted by OOP'S

Ditto!!!!!

Ditto that too! i got the Wilwood.

Seriously, its worth the $70. You wont regret it. Especially if you go disk brakes in the rear later.

[CT18fireman]

I removed the valve and lines back to the front underneath the passenger door today. I plugged the return line in the front wheel well. Then I ran a new line from front to rear, bending it up and out of the narrow slot between the frame and tank. In the rear I cut the soft line bracket and welded it back at a better angle for my new line.

Brakes are better then ever. Only lock up if I really stand on them, they never used to lock up before. I actually have rear brakes now.

Now all I have to do is replace the rotted exhaust I noticed while under the truck.

Thanks for your help.