rear up front FAQ

[1tirefire]

here's mine for my 1st gen. i haven't had a chance to test it out yet. people were sayin they had trouble finding info on first gens so i took lots of pictures

-'85 rear pack + 1 leaf from the front pack of a '72 wagoneer, but i might remove it depending on how much they settle

-5" shackles drilled out to 3/4" instead of 18mm w/ synergy poly bushings(also drilled out)

-spring hanger made from 2x4" square tube and 3/8" plate. that 4" gives it a little more contact area and weld surface to the frame

cut off the wrapped around part of the second leaf so it would fit in the hanger.










i cut off the front few inches of frame. it

stock

[1tirefire]

cut some off the front of the frame




this seemed like it was a good idea


i think im gonna use some RTV silicone to fill the 1/8" gap between the frame and hanger to prevent rust. i painted it really well before i welded it on. ground the paint off of the weld areas


drilled holes in my spring perches to move it a little further forward and added a piece of 3/8" to level it out


moved the axle forward quite a bit. im stoked to test her out soon

[Bugzman]

Originally Posted by drewp

BUGZMAN^^^^^

you need to get the right ubolts, looks like you have 79-83ubolt flip when you have a 84-85 housing

Yes I know. its on the list of things to replace.
but im pretty sure its not effecting my axle wrap

Originally Posted by 4CrawlR

I use a factory clamp attached to the back end of 5th leaf, and up front, the anti-wrap leaf clamp does double duty:

4Crawlr is your anti wrap leaf flipped upside down compared to the rest of the pack?

[M&C_TJ]

ok so I've started a new project 85 4 runner. doing the typical. i used the trail gear from hanger and 5.5" shackles. mounted the hanger flush with the frame end and this is my shackle angle with no weight and only 1" till the spring hits the frame. tried several different combinations but can't seem to get any better. i need more arch but that means taller lift. so should i cut off the hanger and weld it forward? really don't want to since its fully welded in instead of just tacked:roll eyes: oh well learnt a lesson there. what would be the easiest way to do this to get a better angle of the dangle?

[MT TUBEKRAFTER]

Originally Posted by M&C_TJ

ok so I've started a new project 85 4 runner. doing the typical. i used the trail gear from hanger and 5.5" shackles. mounted the hanger flush with the frame end and this is my shackle angle with no weight and only 1" till the spring hits the frame. tried several different combinations but can't seem to get any better. i need more arch but that means taller lift. so should i cut off the hanger and weld it forward? really don't want to since its fully welded in instead of just tacked:roll eyes: oh well learnt a lesson there. what would be the easiest way to do this to get a better angle of the dangle?

I dont think adding arch is gonna give you what you want as an end result because you would have to add a lot of arch to correct that angle..

So you either have to relocate the rear mount ( frame tube) or move the front frame mount forward at least an inch..

It sucks but thats what you gotta do

[M&C_TJ]

dammit thats what i was afraid of. thanks just wanted to make sure that was my only resort before i spent the time and effort to cut the damn thing off.

[M&C_TJ]

my thing is that i don't get is i based my purchases off what others have don't here on this FAQ. people using the 47" springs trail gear hanger and 5.5" shackle mounted flush with the frame and ended up working for them. yeah I'm just venting that i have to cut this effing thing off and start all over again. *@^&$#*&$ #$&$%* &#& vent over.

[RcBro]

So I guess it's there fault u can't use a tape measure.. Shame on them!

[Peterbuilt84]

Well at least you learned to tack it in and check next time

[MT TUBEKRAFTER]

Originally Posted by Peterbuilt84

Well at least you learned to tack it in and check next time

Yep this X2 ..Just because it fell into the pages of a PIRATE forum doesn't mean that it covers all the steps to perform certain modifications..sometimes it takes some "common sense" to complete the project correctly..

You should always TACK then CHECK your work then if its golden by all means burn it in!!

But always TACK and CHECK before final welding!!!

TACK and CHECK!!

[M&C_TJ]

Originally Posted by RcBro

So I guess it's there fault u can't use a tape measure.. Shame on them!

yes yes it is

really didn't see much of a reason to tack in a hanger...mount it up flush with the frame yam bam build and hang a pack. oh well nothing like wasting a few hours grinding and starting over.

[grcthird]

Good info in this thread, helped me out a lot, here's what I did:

Drop hanger, spring eye bolt is 1 1/2" forward, 1 3/8" lower
88 Toyota 4x4 rears
overload removed
added bottom 2 leaves from my front packs, which I think were a 2" Rancho 3 leaf pack, chopped the second one down and made it the fourth leaf so it supports the back of the pack and keeps it from going way negative.
Axle still in center hole of perch
Sky boomerang shackles, which I probably don't need.
33's for now










Haven't wheeled it yet, but has way more flex than the jack can tolerate.

[M&C_TJ]

um so is it bad to have a shackle angle of 90* with no weight on the front end? ie no engine, tranny, case? is there going to be enough weight to bring the shackle back to a more ideal angle? just wondering because i know that engine and all cant weight that much. or should i remove a leaf, or move the hanger back a little more?

[RcBro]

Originally Posted by M&C_TJ

um so is it bad to have a shackle angle of 90* with no weight on the front end? ie no engine, tranny, case? is there going to be enough weight to bring the shackle back to a more ideal angle? just wondering because i know that engine and all cant weight that much. or should i remove a leaf, or move the hanger back a little more?

Not knowing what motor, Trans or cases your running makes it difficult to judge what weight your looking at. The addition of a bumper and winch can also add to that value.

I personally wouldn't worry about it till your drivetrain is back in. It more then likely will settle just fine. This can also not be the case if your hybrid pack is from worn out springs and lacking arch.

[M&C_TJ]

Originally Posted by RcBro

Not knowing what motor, Trans or cases your running makes it difficult to judge what weight your looking at. The addition of a bumper and winch can also add to that value.

I personally wouldn't worry about it till your drivetrain is back in. It more then likely will settle just fine. This can also not be the case if your hybrid pack is from worn out springs and lacking arch.

oh yeah thatll help. 22re 5 speed and single case for now. no plans for a winch maybe a simple bumper not sure on that yet. these springs seem to have plenty of arch to them as they havnt been on a truck for a while. i do plan on in the future maybe a winch and exo but not for a year or so, so i would like to have the suspension fine before then that way i can just add stiffer or more leafs to the pack later.

i think im going to just install the drivetrain and get some weight on these springs and see what happens. it just sucks that they are currently at 90* now. already ran a truck with a lift kit with 90* shackle angles and that brings the suck to the ride.

thanks

[MDNyota]

did some searching; curious who's running the stock sleeved toyota bushings in their RUF pack? I'm useing a set of 3rd gen truck rears and realized the shackle / bushing bolts are only 14mm compared to my greasable 18mm all pro bolts which fit my current shackles and spring hanger (to be modifiied / stretched).

I'm thinking I'll use the stock sleeved bushings (in great shape some how) and just make new shackles and make the cross member bolt holes fit.

Suggestions? I'm sure someones using these, are they too stiff?

Thank you, flame me as needed.

[grcthird]

Originally Posted by MDNyota

did some searching; curious who's running the stock sleeved toyota bushings in their RUF pack? I'm useing a set of 3rd gen truck rears and realized the shackle / bushing bolts are only 14mm compared to my greasable 18mm all pro bolts which fit my current shackles and spring hanger (to be modifiied / stretched).

I'm thinking I'll use the stock sleeved bushings (in great shape some how) and just make new shackles and make the cross member bolt holes fit.

Suggestions? I'm sure someones using these, are they too stiff?

5 posts up, I'm using stock bushings in the front spring eye, and stock size Energy Suspension bushings (part# 8.2102G) on the shackle. If the fronts don't work out, I can always drill the bolt hole on the hanger bigger for the 18mm bolts.
Bushing and bolt sizes had me scratching my head for a while. I think most of the aftermarket hangers are built to aftermarket springs specs. So I just built mine instead of buying something that may or may not work. Maybe someones else can elaborate on this.

[rockyota83]

i drill out the little "nubs" that are on the inside the metal sleeve that is inside the stock bushing to accept a 9/16th bolt, use 3/4" with no sleeve on the shackle side.

[MDNyota]

Originally Posted by grcthird

5 posts up, I'm using stock bushings in the front spring eye, and stock size Energy Suspension bushings (part# 8.2102G) on the shackle. If the fronts don't work out, I can always drill the bolt hole on the hanger bigger for the 18mm bolts.
Bushing and bolt sizes had me scratching my head for a while. I think most of the aftermarket hangers are built to aftermarket springs specs. So I just built mine instead of buying something that may or may not work. Maybe someones else can elaborate on this.

Originally Posted by rockyota83

i drill out the little "nubs" that are on the inside the metal sleeve that is inside the stock bushing to accept a 9/16th bolt, use 3/4" with no sleeve on the shackle side.

Thanks, I think i'm going to try rockyota83 idea, I guess your just drilling out the entire sleeve for the shackle side? I can't get the sleeve out and assume it is formed to the bushing. I'll figure it out.

[bretgilk]

If i ran 84 rears on my 85 with stock mounting would it still push my axle foward? Also will it give me any li
ft?
Thanks for the help

[4runner Freak]

Originally Posted by bretgilk

If i ran 84 rears on my 85 with stock mounting would it still push my axle foward? Also will it give me any li
ft?
Thanks for the help

Start at the beginning of this thread and read!
The springs push the axle 2" forward, not the mount(that is extra).

Here is mine
Stock front mount with RUF

[farmtruck]

Got a lot of good info from this thread, thought I'd share mines.

AntiWrap - Cut down allpro main I think
leaf #1 - 81 2wd main
leaf #2 - 88 4wd 2nd
leaf #3 - 88 4wd 3rd
leaf #4 - 81 2wd 2nd cut to 31"
leaf #5 - 88 4wd main cut to 25"
leaf #6 - 88 4wd main cut to 15"


Installed


On the truck, low on only 33's now. Buddy's truck for height comparison.

[gvx]

Originally Posted by farmtruck

Got a lot of good info from this thread, thought I'd share mines.

AntiWrap - Cut down allpro main I think
leaf #1 - 81 2wd main
leaf #2 - 88 4wd 2nd
leaf #3 - 88 4wd 3rd
leaf #4 - 81 2wd 2nd cut to 31"
leaf #5 - 88 4wd main cut to 25"
leaf #6 - 88 4wd main cut to 15"

On the truck, low on only 33's now. Buddy's truck for height comparison.

Looks good I like the ride profile. I am doing a SAS on my 95. What are you using on the rear springs stock, lifted, or 63" ? As far as weight on the front is this a 4 cyl or 6 or 8 and auto or 5spd?

[x*ALEX*J]

Here is my RUF set up, it has not been installed yet. However, when it is I will post pics ASAP.

I went with the stock rear springs without the overload and added a 2.5inch pro-comp add-a-leaf. the picture does it no justice. After measuring I'm projecting a 3.5-4inch lift when installed. That is not including the shackle.

[farmtruck]

Originally Posted by gvx

Looks good I like the ride profile. I am doing a SAS on my 95. What are you using on the rear springs stock, lifted, or 63" ? As far as weight on the front is this a 4 cyl or 6 or 8 and auto or 5spd?

Thanks. 3.4 5vzfe engine, r151, duals, heavy arb bumper, heavy winch. Rears are stock 63 chevy's.

Steering gets tight.