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Old 12-09-2004, 09:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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bore block or hone block?

i have done some searching, but didn't come up with anything real specific to what i am looking for.

first a little history on my situation. i bought an 86 4 runner that had over heated and blew a HG. the head warped and cracked, so i got ahold of a used head. i got the head completely rebuilt by a machine shop. i am about to order a master rebuild kit from engnbldr.com. should i go ahead and bore the cylinder to get a bit more power? or just hone it and do a stock replacement on the pistons and rings? i am not sure there is even any damage to the bottom end, but i would feel much better with a fresh rebuild. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-09-2004, 09:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by klinkman
i have done some searching, but didn't come up with anything real specific to what i am looking for.

first a little history on my situation. i bought an 86 4 runner that had over heated and blew a HG. the head warped and cracked, so i got ahold of a used head. i got the head completely rebuilt by a machine shop. i am about to order a master rebuild kit from engnbldr.com. should i go ahead and bore the cylinder to get a bit more power? or just hone it and do a stock replacement on the pistons and rings? i am not sure there is even any damage to the bottom end, but i would feel much better with a fresh rebuild. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
if you have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, then have it bored out.

to be honest, this should be a non-issue. you put all that work into the head and you're not gonna go the extra $25/hole to have it bored out?
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Old 12-09-2004, 09:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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hone or bore

You really should measure the cylinders and go from there or you could take it to a shop and have them measure for you. It wouldn't do much good to hone the cylinders if they need bored. The measurements should be taken in 3 places (top, middle, and bottom) to see if the cylinders are tapered or not. Is there a "ridge" at the top of each cylinder?

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Old 12-09-2004, 09:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't even screw around...just bore/hone the block at a machine shop and then order your master kit to accomodate the bore size.
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Old 12-09-2004, 09:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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there is a slight ridge at the top of each cylinder. so it sounds like the wise choice would be to bore. howw much do i bore. i'm not really looking for performance as much as reliability. is the crank something i should look into replacing also? thanks for the input guys.
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Old 12-09-2004, 09:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Take your crank and rods with you too to be checked.
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Old 12-09-2004, 10:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad
Don't even screw around...just bore/hone the block at a machine shop and then order your master kit to accomodate the bore size.
you don't bore the thing without the pistons in hand, you give these to your machinest & he will bore to the piston size
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Old 12-09-2004, 01:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBass44
you don't bore the thing without the pistons in hand, you give these to your machinest & he will bore to the piston size
That's an affirmative Ghostwriter.
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Old 12-09-2004, 01:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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boring

The block will need to be measured to see how far they will need to bore it to clean up the cylinders. I would take it to the machinist and have them measure it and either call you with the sizes of the pistons or have them order the kit themselves. The crank is the same situation, need to see how much will need to be removed to know the bearing sizes (usually 0.010 will do it).

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Old 12-09-2004, 02:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks guys. the people at engnbldr said the master kit comes with whatever size piston and rings you need at no additional cost. the smallest piston besides a stock replacment they have is .020 over. so i guess i will have to go with that since i am not looking for performance, just function. again thanks for your input.
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Old 12-09-2004, 05:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klinkman
so i got ahold of a used head. i got the head completely rebuilt by a machine shop.
Thought you were buying one from me. I pulled it off and boxed it up all nice for ya. Guess it was all talk and I shouldn't be suprised. Could have at least responded to my PM and told me you no longer needed it or wanted it.
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Old 12-09-2004, 06:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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if you have a ridge at the top of the cylinder, then have it bored out.

Check it with a dial bore gauge, they make ridge reamers if all else is within spec.
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Old 12-11-2004, 07:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Just honing and replacing rings and/or pistons is not recommended by the engine builders I know. Honing won't fix out of round or taper. If you are going to rebuild the block, then do it right and bore it. There's a big difference between replacing a head and doing a complete engine rebuild. I replaced my head at about 228K and the bottom end was fine. So it depends on the condition of the motor.
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Old 12-11-2004, 07:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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To do it right, take the block, rods, and crank to an automotive machine shop. Have them check the bores for taper, roundness, if that is good have them cut the ridge ring and hone the cylinders. If the cylinders need to be bored, they will need the pistons. Have them check the rods and straighten if necessary. Check the crank journals for roundness and scoring. If you are going to go this far, balance the engine also. Rebuilding an engine, this way adds to the cost, but it also adds to the longevity of the rebuild.
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