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Old 02-24-2005, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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welding the cab and bed together???

i have been searching POR Wildyoats, RME, and can't find any pictures of people who have welded the cab and bed together. then they cut out the back portion of the cab and install seats. i've been trying to figure this out, but i would like some pictures PLEASE!!!!
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniyota
i have been searching POR Wildyoats, RME, and can't find any pictures of people who have welded the cab and bed together. then they cut out the back portion of the cab and install seats. i've been trying to figure this out, but i would like some pictures PLEASE!!!!

WTF Just buy a 4-runner
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddbitch
WTF Just buy a 4-runner
What if he wanted a 2 door 3rd gen style? They are out there, but hard to find. Why should he scrap his rig for another and start over? His question has merit and you're being an ass.
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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wilson said it right
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Do a search under Extrarunner. Thats what your looking for.
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I don't have any pictures, but I have some advice. Don't just weld it up solid. It tends to crack at the weld when you're flexing offroad. Instead, go to a truck topper place or somewhere like that and buy some of the rubber gasket stuff they use between the cab and a truck topper. Ideally, a tube or something of that sort should be welded inside the back half of the cab to maintain rigidity, but you don't want to weld the cab and bed together.
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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IIRC, when the very first 4runners came out they were very much like that. I remember there was a Toyota salesman that lived across from me (1982ish), and he brought one home from the dealership. I remember the rear seat was laid back because the floor wasn't lowered.

I think the idea about the weatherstrip is good, unless you brace the frame accordingly. The twisting of the frame would likely break any connection between the cab and bed.

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Old 02-24-2005, 08:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Izeloz
I don't have any pictures, but I have some advice. Don't just weld it up solid. It tends to crack at the weld when you're flexing offroad. Instead, go to a truck topper place or somewhere like that and buy some of the rubber gasket stuff they use between the cab and a truck topper. Ideally, a tube or something of that sort should be welded inside the back half of the cab to maintain rigidity, but you don't want to weld the cab and bed together.
This is something that I'm considering down the road for my new rig. What about running a tied-in cage, 6-10 points to make the frame more rigid and lessen the resulting affect you're talking about? I know that in stock form, the frames move plenty. The weather stripping is a good idea, but personally I'd want the finish product to look as original as possible.
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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his is something that I'm considering down the road for my new rig. What about running a tied-in cage, 6-10 points to make the frame more rigid and lessen the resulting affect you're talking about? I know that in stock form, the frames move plenty.

This is something I've been on my soapbox about before...I noticed a HUGE difference in how the truck performed after I put on the flatbed. The legs of the flatbed are welded in 8 places to the framerails, and I put a 2x2x.0.25 chunk across the rear and then welded the diamondplate all the way across this new "crossmember". The cab is quiet and doesn't rattle at all, and the steering is great even with bent wheels and 38" SX's, and the suspension just does its job without any interference from frame twist. (I also braced the front xmember with 1/4" plate).
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think crash or his buddy did an extrarunner...pretty detailed write up...ill see if i can find it...

Edit...here it is

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=extra+runner
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Old 02-24-2005, 11:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Not talking about weather stripping per se, but the rubber boot stuff that they use between toppers and cabs. I don't think it looks too ghetto personally. I do believe that incorporating a good cage that is welded to the frame would stiffen it up enough to not worry about the weld cracking, though.
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Old 02-25-2005, 07:26 AM   #12 (permalink)
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i don't think my frame flexes at any noticable amount. i have added an extra crossmember in the rear of my frame for my shock mounts. its made out of 2x2x.25 tubing. in the front i welded a piece of 2x.25" strap to reinforce the front crossmember and built a new drop spring hanger. and i still have plans to build a new transmission crossmember to lift my drivetrain up. if it does flex and crack the welds, i guess i'll just reweld it and put more bedliner over it. i'll probably just gas weld the cab and bed together.

i have an xtra cab and bobbed frame. so i guess i'm going to look for a decent short bed for the truck.

i'm still not sure what i'm going to do about the top over the rear. i guess if i didn't bob the bed i could just get a topper. i kind of want a 4 runner top and tie that into the rest of the truck.

or i could use the roof and back of a cab and weld in some windows from a ford extended cab.

i'm going to the junkyard tomarrow to take some pictures and do some photo chopping.

i just really need a place to stick the kids so we can all go wheeling together.
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I guarantee the frame is moving much more than you think. It will take a cage like I described above to prevent that. As for the top, build a suitable cage and have a custom canvas enclosure made, similar to a can-back. That would be my plan anyways
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i'll have to find a way to keep my sub woofer from being stolen with a soft top.

i know i should just give up on a sterio but i like to out bump the rice burners. and when the kids start screaming i can turn it up and drown them out! (just kidding, but has been considered on occasion!)

i have a cage in my cab. i'll probably just build bars back off that then tie it into the back and into the frame.

someone want to lend me a tube bender for a while???

of course i'll get taken to the cleaners with the steel prices around here.

$75 for a stick of 2x3x.120 wall of tubing. thats $3.75 a foot!!!!!
pipe is $1.80 a foot!
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:15 AM   #15 (permalink)
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A good six point cage shuold stop the frame twisting enough to not brake the welds. seems as thiough it would be tough to make a good looking connection between the two. Would be really cool though!
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:21 AM   #16 (permalink)
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i think the two can be hooked together pretty easily.

you just need to move the be up to where its touching the cab. then weld away. drill new holes for attaching the frame to the bed. cut out the back portion of the cab. and then add the cage and seats as desired. i'll probably add two bucket seats with racing harnesses to keep the kids firmly in place!
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:38 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Just get a big bicycle lock for the sub box. I had same problem. Went down to Home Depot & bought a big eyebolt, drilled a hole in the side of my box & double nutted the inside so the eyebolt could turn, but not unthread. Then I got one of those Gorrilla locks (which are the big C shape type) and locked it around my roll cage. The box has survived one theft attempt already. Also tinted windows on the soft top help.
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:43 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Oh and stop complaining about that DOM. New stuff around here is about 5 bucks a foot. Sometimes you can find older hot rolled seamless for ~$2.50.
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Old 02-25-2005, 09:29 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I did this to a 2wd a long time ago to get a back seat. If you have an xtra cab you will get good foot room, I wouldn't bother with a regular cab. To seal between I used 1" rubber hose and screwed it to the cab,then put the bed back,it was a tight fit no leaks, add a shell, trim under the window and it's done I also used rubber hose and sliced it lenthwise to cover sharp edges

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Old 02-25-2005, 10:17 AM   #20 (permalink)
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As far as the stereo question goes, I have a recommendation. Look through some Jeep catalogs. I know it might be heresy to even suggest it, but they have some pretty good boxes/enclosures for speakers, subwoofers and stereos.
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Old 02-25-2005, 10:38 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Heres mine been beat on and floped holding up ok.

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Old 02-25-2005, 10:53 AM   #22 (permalink)
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i was thinking about a tuffy security consol (SP) spellings not my strong point, statistics would prove that. it looks like i might have a lead on a 4 runner with a good title. so i might go that route!
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