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King Nuts

646 views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Tipsy 
#1 ·
So I recently did a SAS on my 93 4runner. When I put my axle together I was told to tighten the king nuts hand tight. I did this and it resulted in tire wobble. So then of course I took my axle all apart... tightened up the king nuts pretty tight. That made the outside bearing scrape against the washer. Made a nice squeaking noise and started to wear away the washer. Took it apart again... loosened the king nut a bit. Got tire wobble again.
So.... anyone have any info on how tight they should be... ft lbs.... recommendations...?

Here's the link to pics of it as well :)


http://community.webshots.com/album/276393302fIsnKK


here's some more you guys might like as well....


http://community.webshots.com/user/easy_c247
 
#3 ·
#5 · (Edited)
lol... well luckily i thought that would be a bit too loose to so I used the screwdriver and hammer method to tighten them up a bit more
Then when I actually wanted them really tight... I went out and bought the proper socket.

I searched another site and found the info I needed though



Now there are two schools of thought on properly tightening the wheel bearings. First is the method documented in the Toyota Factory Service Manual:

Tighten the nuts finger tight, then using a spring scale, measure and record the seal drag while turning the hub with the scale attached to a wheel stud
Then tighten the nut and re-measure the bearing drag until it reads about 3-8? lbs more than the seal drag alone.
The second method seems to produce similar results and is a bit more straight forward:

Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. lbs.
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Loosen inner spindle nut
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. lbs.
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Loosen inner spindle nut
Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
Torque spindle nut to ~21 ft. lbs.
The idea behind the second method is to ensure the bearing is fully seated in the grease and then the final torquing sets the pre-load fairly accurately. I used the second technique on my first rebuild (I didn't have a spring scale then) and I found the bearings a bit tight. In fact they seemed to be getting a bit hot on a highway trip to go wheeling. However, after two days crawling rocks, they seemed to settle right in. When I got back, I picked up a scale and measured the bearing drag and both sides were about 8 lbs. total (don't know what the oil seal drag was and I wasn't about to find out :), so I guess it worked OK
 
#7 ·


look like the WHEEL BEARING nuts to me :flipoff2:
26 ft lbs

torque to 40 ft lbs
spin hub left 4 times, right 4 times
loosen nut,
spin hub left 4 times, right 4 times
tighten to 40 again
spin hub left 4 times, right 4 times
loosen nut
spin hub left 4 times, right 4 times
now torque to spec I think 26 ft lbs
& install star and jam nut


get a manual or try top post in this fourm, TOY FAQ's I would think you killed both inner & outer wheel bearing/races though :(
 
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