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building a beast...lots of pics

5K views 35 replies 19 participants last post by  XJ618 
#1 ·
the truck- 1982 longbed

-THE PLAN-
suspension-FRONT...2" drop hanger (2.5" forward) with 91 toy rear leaves w/ chevy add-a-leaf cut to fit...REAR...63" chevys mounted 4" forward with single shackle
frame- fun with tube
axles- FRONT...5.29s with detroit trutrac, when i break my birfs i'll get longs, skys widening kit, truss, want to shave the bottom...REAR...'86 rear, v6 third, detroit, 5.29s, chomolies, disc brakes, want to shave as well
body-lime green paint (of course), lots of sawzalling to wheelwells, 1/4 doors
engine- 22r (want to add fuel injection soon though) 30 over, rv cam, full exhaust
tcase- duals with second at 4.7 but i might go with the 5s from inchworm...
steering- skys x over, hopefully as hydro assist soon
 
#2 · (Edited)
the truck...was going to get the lime green over the primer this weekend but the weather wasnt coopperating


cut the last 8" off the frame today when i got home from work...just gotta cut off the original shackle hangers, weld on my angle iron across the back and then my new shackle hangers


the shackles for the chebbies...using 2" chevy drop shackles for a 2wd flipped upside down, replacing the bushing at the top with a RE joint


have the doors gutted and taped out but i havent cut yet
 

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#4 · (Edited)
the front fenders are done..i was broke for awhile but had a sawzall blade and paint so i figured what the hell

the 37" claws and my warn x9000i

and the super cool plastic seats with harnesses...originally i was planning on doin an interior cage but i've descided to go with an exo cage so any ideas for how to mount the shoulder straps for the harnesses would be helpful:beer:
 

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#13 ·
aren't shackles on a chevy designed to be run in tension rather than compression? that's probably why they bent -- they don't need to be built as strong to run upside down...
 
#15 · (Edited)
took advantage of the non rain today to get the first coat of green on the cab...before everyone flames for the overspray its ok cuz i need to repaint the dash and bedline the floor anyways so im not worried about the spray at all...


 

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#20 ·
Just get some 1/4 inch steel plate and make your own shackles for the chevies, i made them with a 7.5 inch eye to eye and the shackle hanger sat an inch behind factory, so if you built about 8 to 8.5 eye to eye you could weld in the place of the factory hanger
 
#21 ·
muddy_yota_guy said:
Just get some 1/4 inch steel plate and make your own shackles for the chevies, i made them with a 7.5 inch eye to eye and the shackle hanger sat an inch behind factory, so if you built about 8 to 8.5 eye to eye you could weld in the place of the factory hanger
yea after seein that pic of the shackle tweaked over i've been thinkin i'd just build my own onto the RE joint...seein as how you kept almost the stock shackle location did you move your front mount for the chevies up more than the standard 11"?? cuz numbers-wise to run the shackle in the factory location i should make my front mount 15" forward...not like i dont have the room with the longbed...so with the rear axle forward about 4" and the front forward about 2 should set my wheelbase at 111ish...

thanx a buncha gtxracer, i've seen your buildup on here too, i dig it...gotta get more info from ya on those smog block off plates...

and thanx halfxspaid, i wont let em get to be...its my fawkin truck :flipoff2:
 
#22 ·
use the chevy shackles as a jig and weld some up out of a minimum of 1/4 flat plate and use some 2x2 as a crossbrace.... basicly make your own H shackle or you can go to 4wp and get 2" Yj rear shackles for like $20.... they work sick... and they are beef!!
 
#25 · (Edited)
got another coat of green on this morning (have to wait til i get paid next week to buy parts to really do anything else) and bolted a fender up to see how it looks...weather permitting i'll have the paint completely done tomarrow then i can pull the cab off and finish the frame next weekend...

 

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