hmmmm. i couldnt draw you a diagram but i know where stuff goes. but if you look at my wires on my rig, it looks like 2 gangs of wires got together and had a fight
the first thing i would tell you, is to lose the stock alternator and go get a GM 1 wire alternator. that would make things way simple.
if this helps:
then run 1 guage wire (from welding shop) from hot on battery to quick car switch, and then from switch to starter. run the ground from the battery to the ground on the block. thats what i did, and i also grounded the block to the frame and chassis at 2 points and i ran another ground from the batter to the frame. then off of the hot wire to the starter, i ran a hot to the winch, and then i ran a hot to a junction box to give power to other things like the carb and other accessories....the rest is pretty simple.
the alternator has one wire coming off of it that goes to the quick car switch. (i have the quick car switch that has 4 leads on it for an alternator). then it runs to the hot on the battery. thats how simple it is. the alternator is self grounding.
hmmmm. i couldnt draw you a diagram but i know where stuff goes. but if you look at my wires on my rig, it looks like 2 gangs of wires got together and had a fight
the first thing i would tell you, is to lose the stock alternator and go get a GM 1 wire alternator. that would make things way simple.
if this helps:
then run 1 guage wire (from welding shop) from hot on battery to quick car switch, and then from switch to starter. run the ground from the battery to the ground on the block. thats what i did, and i also grounded the block to the frame and chassis at 2 points and i ran another ground from the batter to the frame. then off of the hot wire to the starter, i ran a hot to the winch, and then i ran a hot to a junction box to give power to other things like the carb and other accessories....the rest is pretty simple.
the alternator has one wire coming off of it that goes to the quick car switch. (i have the quick car switch that has 4 leads on it for an alternator). then it runs to the hot on the battery. thats how simple it is. the alternator is self grounding.
Of the two wires that go to the ignition assembly, the brown one gets power. The distributor hooks to the coil. As long as the brown has power, it will have spark :grinpimp: We like to put the propane soleniod on this circuit also.
On the alternator, the small red wire that goes to it should have key on power. That is the field wire. As long as this wire has power, it will charge.
For the battery disconnect, I like to put it inline with the negative cable somewhere between the battery and it's grounding point.
So..negative to mastercutoff switch, then to ground.
Positive directly to the starter. A lead coming from the positive cable (medium duty) to your switch panel. That will feed your accessories. Between each switch and it's accessory, goes the fuse.
One switch to fuel/ignition.
One pushbutton for the starter(power coming from the switch panel)
Alternator wired into switch panel directly to power. (whenever the master is on) Or you could put a separate switch for charging.
Guages ,are they mechanical? Tach? oil? batt? temp? If they are mechanical, no wiring . If electrical, There is a capped connector on the coil assembly that has a tach reference. The oil ,I like a light. The wire that goes to the sender gets a ground when the oil pressure falls low. So the light gets continuous power and grounds through the OPS.
Battery guage hooks into any power that is before a switch. If it is amps, it goes between inline with the charge wire. (I don't like those because if the guage goes,so does the charging) Volts is fine for me.
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