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Fuel filter removal 3.0L V6

771 views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  canadiantoy 
#1 ·
Is there an easy way to remove this stupid thing?

The front banjo bolt is almost impossible to get at with the t-case x-member and torsion bars (ya, IFS, I know, but its my dad's truck) in the way. Its also quite seized on there due to rust. I've been soaking it in liquid wrench, but that doesn't seem to be helping.

Also, does anyone know exactly what size the banjo bolts are? I think they're supposed to be 14mm, but all of my 14mm wrenches fit very loosely on the bolt and start to strip it because its seized so much. 13mm is too small, as is 1/2" 9/16 is too big. It seems like a 13.5mm or 17/32" would fit nice and tight, but I don't know if they make such a thing. (I've noticed the banjo bols for the brake lines are the same way -- they're just a tiny bit smaller than a regular 12mm bolt, but I've never had one seized badly enough to cause a problem).

i think I should be okay once I get the fuel lines disconnected, but so far I'm not having any luck with the front one.


Is this even worth doing myself? Or should i just take it to a mechanic and let them hastle with it?
 
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#2 ·
I know what you are going through, a real pain in the ass! I used a mini hack saw to cut the filter out and I relocated it with some rubber hose.
 
#3 ·
Common problem on the 3.0 V-6. That fitting was over-torqued from the factory and the threads were tweaked and it will round off before it comes loose. Dealerships replace the line that goes from the filter to the engine or you can cut it and splice in a rubber hose and clamps. Use the fuel injection type hose clamps they hold the higher pressure better then the screw type.
 
#4 ·
Dood, my buddy and I just did one this weekend on my 88 pickup. Call around and get some quotes. If any of them sound reasonable enough to make up for at least an hour or two of cussing, having gasoline drip on you and general frustration of getting it back it, just pay it and save yourself the misery.

That being said, if you don't cut your hard lines, don't mess with putting the mouting bracket/guard back on. I didn't and I have no problems and I doubt that I ever will. Also don't fully tighten down the engine side fuel line until you get the tank side started. Good luck!
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the tips guys.

Its my dad's truck so I'll let him decide if he wants to take it to a mechanic, but most likely we'll take OOP's suggestion and cut the front hard line and replace it with a high pressure rubber fuel line & clamps.
 
#6 ·
I bought the line before and after the filter and replaced the whole thing. The lines cost me $70 CDN and the filter was $30. I put a little never seize on the threads and under the nut. Once together I greased the outside of the nut to prevent further rusting. $100 is less then you are going to pay at a shop to replace the filter and this way you are 100% new.

Just my 2 cents

CT
 
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