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88 toy 22R Jumped timing

800 views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  1stgenboy 
#1 ·
Anyone Know about bent vaves in these motors? I was fixixng it for a friend it was clicking badly and suddenly stopped running at 135000 mi. It cranked fast and i could see where the timing chain was really loose. It had actually grooved the cover and took out the metal baffle on the vavle cover oil fill area.THIS WAS WHAT I thought wiped the thing out of time but a new timimg chain and gasket set later it still wont start as it has no compression A head replacement is about $1400 retail I dont think it is worth it. A rebuilt head is about $350 and cant tell if it cracked a piston. This thing is taking over my garage. Help!
Evan in Missouri (Misery)
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
I have my timing 6* advanced on a high profile cam in my hybie. Ran with the head cracked for about a year (40k+ miles) before I got the motor so hot the intake valves hit on each fawkin' piston. Pulled the head and it looked like the valves were seatin ok but, there was a big fat crack between the valve seats in each cylinder. #1 piston had actually started to weld to the cylinder wall. I was 1k miles from home and low on cash so I just had the head redone at the cheapest place I could find ($150 in Tiajauna Norte...errr...Chula Vista, CA). The shop did not even reshape one of the combustion chambers after welding the crack. I slapped it back on regardless and drove all the way home (central oregon) with big fawkin' valve dings in each piston, a 1/4" by 1/4" piece of #1 piston welded to the cylinder wall, what sounded like piston slap or a rod knock, one combustion chamber grossly mishapen and a big cloud of blue smoke behind me. I averaged 85mph at 13.6 mpg (down from 15.9 mpg at that speed) and foobar'ed the smog index in several small valleys. Took 3+ quarts to make it the last 130 miles. I don't think there was 2 quarts left in the pan when I drained it to pull the motor. I rebuilt the bottom end with an engbldr kit. Cost me ~$225 for the kit and ~$160 for machine work on the block and crank. I slapped the same head (with the same cam) on and drive the piss out of this thing.

These motors withstand so much fawkin' herendous abuse!!!

Were I you, I would just have a local machine shop redo the head, slap it on and see what you have from there. likely you will find acceptable performance and drivability and the money you would spent making it new again will buy a lot of gas for wheeling...

Oh yeah...still got a small crack in #3 that only shows at start up on cold morings and I still drove it to sandyeggo and back with out problems.... :D
 
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