Pirate 4x4 banner

20r truck with 22r. wiring help?

5K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  Kcrawler 
#1 ·
I searched for it and saw nothing.

I have the possibility of buying a 1980 4x4 toyota with a 22r bolted in but not wired it also comes with a 20r in the bed all accessories are their and in place just need to know how to wire it. The truck is clean as hell and only 400 bucks!


1. How do i wire it?20r truck with 22r dropped in
2. How do i somg it? (swap valve covers)

I also have access to a 91 fuel injection harness intake and head can this motor be swapped to efi?

(need to pick this thing up soon just need to know if its possible and how hard?)
 
#4 ·
The carbs are completely different, the conectors probly wont fit. but it should be easy to wire up.

Smog? It depends on how knowlagable the smog shop is. you could change the valve cover but like I said the carbs are different, they might notice. As long as you use all the smog equipment for the 22r it wont be a problem as it is newer than the 20r.
 
#5 ·
If You Use The Smog Equipment From The 22r And Its Different Then What The 20r Needs,you Have To Go To The Referee Which Is A Huge Pain In The Butt.i Would Install The 22r And Use The 20r Smog Equipment And Take The 22r Sticker Off The Valve Cover.i Would Be Willing To Bet You Could Take It To 50 Shops And Not One Would Notice That It Is A 22r.
 
#6 ·
stretchnutz said:
If You Use The Smog Equipment From The 22r And Its Different Then What The 20r Needs,you Have To Go To The Referee Which Is A Huge Pain In The Butt.i Would Install The 22r And Use The 20r Smog Equipment And Take The 22r Sticker Off The Valve Cover.i Would Be Willing To Bet You Could Take It To 50 Shops And Not One Would Notice That It Is A 22r.
My understanding is that if you put in a newer engine you must run the smog equipment that came on that engine.

Your probly right about no one noticing.
 
#7 ·
put the 20r head on the 22r block it will rip!!!
this combo ups ur compression ratio and all will hook up as stock but with way more power.
talk to LC engineering and get the double timing chain set up
and u will have bad ass cheap truck
 
#8 ·
20r head 22r block.. interesting but then it requires gasket set timing chain/guides other misc parts. if i go that far i would just want to rebuild it as i know the 22r is worn and i know nothing about the 20r.

Money.. How much to machine a head and bore/hone a block (not very knowledge able about this work) Where to get it done in the east bay/bay area.

I just don't want to have to buy a gasket set two times if it burns oil or the head is warped..
 
#9 ·
i dropped a 22R into my truck which originally had a 20R. wiring is super easy, but i also used a canadian vacuum diagram for an '83 truck which has no EGR, smog pump, or emissions(only lines hooked up are vacuum advance and retard, AAP, choke breaker and choke opener).

there'll probably be 4 wires on the carb that go to a plug. just cut the plug off and wire them seperately. you'll have a red choke wire, an idle cutoff solenoid with a white/black and black wire, and a mixture solenoid(?) with a black(i think, mighve been purple wire). tap into a switched power source(red wire going to igniter works good) and wire the red choke wire and black wire from the idle solenoid to it. then run the white wire with a black stripe to a ground. i left the 4th wire hanging and it works fine for me

the distributor will plug directly into the 20R's ignition setup, as long as it didn't have points(which would be a total fluke as '76 or '77 was the last year for points on the 20R)
 
#10 ·
Ok so i think i got my hands on a bottom end 22r with 1000miles complete with head blown gaskets (haven't inspected yet) for 450

So i will have 2 22r's and 2 20r's 1 good 22r bottom end.

Two 20r heads now my question is where to get a head machined in the bay area and whats a good price my buddy says he knows of a place for 250 is that good for a 4cyl head?

Is the performance of a 'hybrid' 22r bottom and 20r head worth it?
 
#11 ·
When I got my 22R bored 0.020 over and honed, it was $145. Leep in mind that if you decide to bore it you will need pistons and rings to fit, which is more money right there.

As for the head, if it is in good shape (no cracks or warpage or rotting) a valve job was about $150 for me. A surface was about another $45. If it is cracked at all though, or warped, that will significantly add to the price of the machine work. I went to Main Machine in Concord.

One lesson that I learned with these early engines is that a GOOD core is worth it's weight in gold. It's a pain in the ass to try and find a good bottom end here, and a good head here, since new heads aren't made for the old engines. Not only that but it seems like there are MANY little changes in these early engines that are just a pain in the ass - like tangs on bearings, and even different rear main seal retainers.

If you know that one of those 22Rs are good (and if I am talking to kevin or john or jameson, then I know that one of those 22Rs runs) then you might as well just rebuild that one. It didn't knock or smoke or anything, so machine work could be pretty cheap on rebuilding that one.
 
#12 ·
my best friend just build LC engineering stage 2 full bp bal 22r bored 30 over with a 20r head and 36"s and it rips
you have most of the double timing chain set up from those 20r's.
Neil has 10.5:1 with the pistons he has pistons
it rips
 
#13 ·
Look up LC engineering timing part you need is pretty cheap
 
#14 ·
I’d use the good 22R bottom with the 20R head. You would then be able to keep the original wiring. Keep in mind that you can’t put a 22R intake on a 20R head. (Different coolant passage location).

You can leak test the head with gasoline yourself. If it leaks, you can sometimes get it to seal with lapping compound. You can then bring it to a shop and it will only cost you the 45$ to get it resurfaced. It worked for me. Don’t take off too much, or else you’ll end up with a loose timing chain.

Be sure the good 22R isn't '85 and up (Laser block). With those flat pistons you wouldn't get the compression increase. And you'd have timing chain problems.
 
#15 ·
Ok so the 22r with the good bottom end is 'an 84' but is there a specific stamp or cast to tell? Also the head has a TRD cam in it i guess its a 22r TRD cam is it worth anything on a 22r block 20r head. Keep in mind smog issues.. sorry for all the questions but i don't want to do this more than once.. I got all the parts lined up for monday.

Oh yeah and Greg this is Jon.. And since i know you have it how did you set up the dual timing chain and whats the cost?
 
#16 ·
i don't have a clue about the casting numbers, but you can tell it's an early 22R by the "22R" stamped in it on the driver's side of the #1 cylinder, and it doesn't have the flying saucer shaped mark on it.
 
#17 ·
Kcrawler said:
Ok so the 22r with the good bottom end is 'an 84' but is there a specific stamp or cast to tell? Also the head has a TRD cam in it i guess its a 22r TRD cam is it worth anything on a 22r block 20r head. Keep in mind smog issues.. sorry for all the questions but i don't want to do this more than once.. I got all the parts lined up for monday.

Oh yeah and Greg this is Jon.. And since i know you have it how did you set up the dual timing chain and whats the cost?
Does the 84 with the good bottom end have a head on it still? If it does, the early engines have round exh ports, while the newer ones are pear shaped. Older engines also have domed pistons and newer ones are flat.

So Jon, what are the plans? Put the 20R head on the 22R bottom end? Or just use anythony's old tired POS? The dual row can be put on any of the early engines, I beleive. www.engnbldr.com has a dual row kit, it is no more expensive than the single row chain with a metal guide, I think. Either $60 or 70 bucks. It should come with everything you need to run the dual on it.

If you wanna talk about it, call me up.
 
#18 ·
Kcrawler said:
Also the head has a TRD cam in it i guess its a 22r TRD cam is it worth anything on a 22r block 20r head. Keep in mind smog issues..
This guy http://www.speedtoys.com/~oldmage/
has passed smog with this: TRD "Stage 2" camshaft (224° intake & 234° exhaust @ .050" lift)

But his is a EFI modified 20R head. So it's hard to tell if it would work for you.
 
#19 ·
2RowTC4Runner said:
I’d use the good 22R bottom with the 20R head. You would then be able to keep the original wiring. Keep in mind that you can’t put a 22R intake on a 20R head. (Different coolant passage location).


If you use the 20r head your not going to use the 20r carb are you? Those things are junk. They are tiny, 190cfm? use a plunger type accelerator pump. just not very good carbs. I would run a 22r carb or a weber. You can get adapters for the 20r manifold.

To get the most out of a hybred its more than just slappin a 20r head on it. There used to be a couple of good threds on here about it. Try a search for "20/22r hybred" or check the FAQ's.

Make sure you replace the steel rocker arms of the 20r head with the aluminum rockers arms of the 22r or get new (aluminum) if you gonna put in a Hipo cam. The aluminum rockers alow the engine to rev faster. Also LC uses a stronger valve springs to keep the valves from floating at high rpm's.

There is 2 things about this swap. higher compresion (may have to run preamium gas) and better flow charicteristics of the 20r head. If you do it and dont take advantage of that flow you'll be wasting time and $$$.

I'm not trying to discurage you, I'm just pointing out that there is quite a bit to it.
I have never done this swap but I researched it alot about 6 or 7 years ago. There is a bit more to it than just chucking a 20r head on a 22r block. When done right it makes a kick ass motor.

Oh, and another thing, the 20r head has smaller valves. Every successful swap that I saw done replaced the 20r valves with 22r valves(more machine work)
 
#20 ·
actually it's not that the 20R head flows more, it just gives the fuel charge a straight shot into the cylinder, unlike the 22R head where the fuel charge has to go around a big lump to get there. engnbldr also sells oversized 20R stainless valves if you don't wanna go the 22R route.

then again, a well built 22R feels about the same as a well built 20R...main issue is that a 20R costs more to build due to the fact that they haven't been put in anything from the factory in 25 years...
 
#21 · (Edited)
Ok. Alright i am trying to keep this cheap and not a head ache at the same time...

I have numerous parts 22r and 20r. but i have a good 22r bottom end but i have to buy it for 450 bucks but i believe its complete with the TRD cam and has 1000miles on it.

With the truck i have a 20r and a 22r and then in my buddies side yard i have another 20r.

I need this to smog so going to the 22r carb would put me back into my wireing/smog problems.

Don't know much about these four bangers just trying to go reliable and cost effective the 20r/22r seems to be a little more complex..

Should i just deal with the 20r cab 22r motor wireing and just run that.. i know that motor runs... (was hoping to rebuild one and sell the one in the truck to pay for the truck)

Greg- PM me your number..
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top