I'm having difficulty installing my 30 splines into my brand new Hi-pinion elocker. they install till the bell goes into the axle ball about 1/2", then it hits something hard. I tried rotating the HP flange to get it to line up, but no luck. I also tried the BFH method, but I didn't want to damage something so I stopped.
Anybody know if you have to have the locker engaged to install the axle shafts???
I had a hell of a time too. What was happening on mine is that the inner axle c clip was not holding the inner axle in the longfield and it was slipping into the bell too far. So there wasn't enough of the inner axle going into the 3rd member. It took me 8 hours to get mine in once all was said and done. I went through 4 c clips too. Bobby had said that he was going to cut the splines shorter to eliminate the c-clip all together. Not sure if that has happened yet or not.
I understand the problem of the C-clip, I have them also. I could tell the shaft has gone passed the C-clp slot, but the problem I have is that the inner wont go into the 3rd member. Feels like its just bottomed out against something hard. :evil:
Speaking of the C-clip, can't I just pull the shaft back out of the bell until the clip engages again, or is it waisted?
I had started a thread on this a while back when I practically wanted to put a bullet in my head because I was having such hell getting the 30 spliners in.
The problem I had was a little different though. I couldnt get the bell of the birf into the knuckle ball. I had to fanagle the inner axle seal in with my finger AFTER putting the birf a little way in.
And also, I wasted a couple c-clips, and finally ended up running one that was missing a little peice. Seems cool though, and I'm going to take eveything apart again after this seaon for a checkup anyway
Good luck, John.
So, if I understand right, you removed the inner seal to get more clearance around the shaft diameter to start the inner into the 3rd member, and then once the splines are engaged, push the seal into place??? Sounds like a possible idea.
Whoops, I miss-understood what you were trying to say. Now I get it, the bell was hitting the ball inner during the assembly. I think maybe same problem may be happening to me, maybe causing the end of my inner to missalign to the 3rd member.
I'll try that & let you guys know! :cool2:
Sorry if this is newB question, but is this problem specific to the high pinion E-locker or is this a potential problem with the other lockers as well when upgrading to the 30 spline Long's?
The 80 series FSM suggests locking the diffs prior to removing them. I also lock the front before removing the axles to service the Birfs although I can't recall where I read this hint.
I read the same thing about installing the 3rd member itself, but didn't see anything about having to lock it for removing the shafts.
Have you tried without locking? I'm wondering why it should be necessary???
it SHOULD keep the splines in the same place that they were for easier assembly, but when putting new axles in, it wont make a difference since the shaft may not be in the same place. Worth a try.
Normally you have to push down on the assembly a little to get it to go in the third. Once it is started it should only take rotating the flange a bit while pushing on the axlre to get it in.
Sicktoy how in the hell did you put the seal in after the birfield. That dosent sound possible or fun. and for those that want to make the seal install easy and quick.
Craftsman sockets. a 24mm socket fits inside the seal perfectly.
Take a 32mm socket push a 24mm socket into it. (tight fit) now slide the seal onto the 24mm. a 6" extension to hammer with and it will go in straight and in 30 sec.
Update...
30 splines suck (installation speaking) without any instructions! So learn from my difficulty!!!
Installing the seal after the shaft is nearly impossible. Only works if you have plastic inner seals. I have 2 sets one plastic, one metal. The plastic ones will slide in with your thumb if you get them greasy enough. Bad part is they slide back out easy too. I bet your inners are leaking soon if you did this method.
What is actually happening is the end of the inner drops below the opening in the 3rd member as it's slid into the housing. I determined this by feel once I pulled the inner seals out & installed the longs a couple times.
Step 1 -
Pulling the inner seals out & "Pre-install the shaft" once or twice helped me get the feel of it. Rotating the 3rd member flange to line up the splines helps.
Step 2 - Find out which flat on the longfield clears the bottom inside of the ball, only one side would work for me. (Not sure exactly why this is)Remember this side, and rotate the 3rd member flange until you can slide the long out with minimal force.
This is the setup for the final install.
Step 3 - Install your inner seals. I used the metal ones, because I don't like diff pudding.
Step 4 - On the long side you can push down on the assembly just before the bell enters the ball to start the end of the inner into the 3rd. Then wiggle & push. Watch not to push too hard or you'll overcome the spring clip inside the outter star. You can watch the inner as you push to see if its gone past. If you push past the clip, you'll have to remove the outter by force, and spread the clip out. This helps prevent pushing beyond the clip the next time.
On the short side, same steps as above (1~3) except you cant push down so easily due to the short length of the inner. So I grabbed a really short prybar and inserted it up through the lower race in the ball. Prying up on the inner slightly & wiggling the outter, it finally went in.
NOTE for outter removal: I removed the outter by using a piece of Schedule 40 PVC pipe that was just bigger than the inner shaft. Slide the inner into the PVC, so it sits against the inner star of the outter. Drop the PVC pipe and longfield assembly against the cement floor. Hard to explain, but PVC pipe should be longer than the inner, and you want to drop it on the open end of the PVC pipe. Couple good whacks and the inner should pop out of the outter. Gravity rules
Its quite a knack skill to get them to go in consistently, but pulling the inner seals out first, and practicing really helped me out.
i got elec locker HP and mine went right in. I did have to take the motor off and lift up on the short shaft with a screw driver but it slide right in as soon as i picked it up. Sounds like your housing may be bent? was the long catching on the bottom and had plenty of room on top? Thats what mine did when it was bent a little. Just a thought.
Isant this sad I am sitting hear reading about your problems and not getting my runner started. O by the way the trick to getting the inners ingaged into the 3rd is use a large magnet over the housing to help lift the end of the shaft. :shaking: I have sold my pro fields and the k&n is next to go. I will soon hav enough mony the get a new powerplant.
Have you actually tried it? or are you just dreaming out loud? And if you say you tried it, and it works, I call bullshit. To get a magnet strong enough to go through the freakin' housing, then pick up the shaft, well dude you wouldnt be strong enough to yank it back off. Furthermore, lets just say you were able to procure a magnet strong enough, and had incredible hulk arms, whats going to make the shaft stop in the middle of the housing and not thunk up against the top of the housing??? Dumbass...... :shaking:
The reason you are supposed to lock the 80-series diffs before removing the axle shafts is not for the front locker, but for the rear. There is a dog gear, that will fall out of place if the locker is not engaged before removing the shaft. Just thought I would clear up that misconception.
Have you actually tried it? or are you just dreaming out loud? And if you say you tried it, and it works, I call bullshit. To get a magnet strong enough to go through the freakin' housing, then pick up the shaft, well dude you wouldnt be strong enough to yank it back off. Furthermore, lets just say you were able to procure a magnet strong enough, and had incredible hulk arms, whats going to make the shaft stop in the middle of the housing and not thunk up against the top of the housing??? Dumbass...... :shaking:
The other magnets you put on the bottom and sides to balance the field?
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