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Old 04-08-2005, 11:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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22r Carb Settings

I have a toyota that I bought not running. Apparently when the po installed the timing chain he didnt install the woodruff key in the lower timing chain sprocket properly. I fixed all of that, but now I dont know what the settings on the carb should be. The po installed a new aisin carb and I have the old one, but I dont know what the initial settings should be. I can get the truck to run, but it seems way rich and wont idle under 2000 rpm's. I checked my buddies chilton for his truck, but that was damn near useless. I read the toyota faq, and although it has a ton of great info, it didnt tell me what I needed to know. I realize that there is a high and low speed idle adjustment and a fuel/air mixture screw, but I dont know where these need to be set. If someone could tell me what they found works that would be great. If there is a link available to a picture breakdown of the carb as well that would be appreciated. Flame on if this is something that is very common and I couldnt find it using the search function. All help is appreciated.

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Old 04-08-2005, 11:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If you have the old carb you should be able to look at it and tell what the initial settings should be. If I were to do a blind start I would turn in the idle speed until it touches the throttle plate lever and then give it another full turn (edit: this is with the truck warmed up or the choke blocked open). The idle mixture I would probably start about three to four turns out from bottoming. From there get it started, make any necessary adjustments to let it run to warm up. Once it warms up, then do the real adjustments.

The fact that it will not idle under 2000 suggests something else is wrong. Do you mean you can't turn it down or it just dies under 2000? If you can't turn it down, then the cable/linkage could be a problem.
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It will idle under 2k, but dies eventually. I cant make it idle at 800-1000 rpms without it eventually dieing.

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Old 04-08-2005, 12:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The problem with using the other carb that they had on it for reference is that they replaced that carb for a reason. I think the po didnt really know what he was doing and decided to shotgun parts at this project. I just wanted to see if anyone had a link to the fsm on how to set the proper baseline adjustments on the carb.

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Old 04-08-2005, 12:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The standard way of adjusting the mixture, in case you don't know, is to adjust it for the best idle at the lowest possible idle, then turn the speed up afterwards. The bad part about that is, everything else has to work well to get it to 700 rpm or so and then adjust the mixture. I'm not sure what the initial idle mixture setting should be on a stock carb, on a Weber it's 2-3 turns out from the bottom. Maybe somebody will chime in that knows or has a stock carb and can check it.

It could be it won't idle because of something else, like an intake manifold leak or vacuum leak. You can check for leaks at low idle by spraying carb cleaner around areas where it could be leaking. If there is a leak, the engine speed will stumble.

Maybe you had a fun time with the vacuum hoses and one's in the wrong spot, you'd better make sure of that, that's the easy fix.
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Are the vaccum advance lines to the distributor hooked up properly?
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The problem is that I dont know where the vacuum lines go on the carb and distributor. When I got the truck from the po the lines were hooked up, but again I do not know if they are correct. I can check for manifold/vacuum leaks tonite. What is really frustrating is that the motor runs really well above 2k, its just below that where my problem lies. Thanks for the help so far guys.

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Old 04-08-2005, 01:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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are you sure the timing chain is installed correctly? trucks run like this when its off a tooth.
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Old 04-08-2005, 01:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have double check the timing chain and used the "shiny" links to line everything up. I guess it wouldnt hurt to check it one more time. Is there a way to check the bottom end without having to pull the timing chain cover again. I was sure I had it this last time and did a great job sealing it up with new gaskets and whatnot.

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Old 04-08-2005, 02:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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your distributor could be off. If your sure your chain is right which is pretty hard to mess up, you could have put the distributor in one tooth advanced.

put the motor to TDC and pull the cap off and check were it sits. should point to 1
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Old 04-08-2005, 02:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I think I got that too, but if there is a problem I'd be willing to bet thats where I screwed up. I thought I got the rotor to point to the 11 o'clock position which should be the number one wire. I will check this again when I get home tonite. Just for anyone else that happens to search and find this thread there are some killer illustrations at autozone.com that you can print out and that look to be very helpful. Its difficult to accomplish too much at work, but I am trying to be prepared as possible for when I get home tonite. I am definitely going to pull the carb and re-seal it to the intake and then make sure all of the vacuum lines are going where they should be and work from there. This shouldnt be all that difficult, my dumb ass is just making this into rocket science. Thanks again for all of the help guys.

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Old 04-08-2005, 05:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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hmmmmmmm maybe the guy before you who did all the work on the truck bent a valve?? it happend to me when doing the timing chain... it seems to run fine at higher rpm's and at lower rpms it runs like crap!! easy way to figure this out is compression test it!! if you dont have one run down to wallymart and pick one up for 20 bux or so!! thats what i did!! oh if ur wonderin how the hell did i bend the valves?? well it was an overlooked thing how i bent them... really easy... if i were someone else i would prolly think that im an idiot and how do you bend a valve... but the engine was at tcd and i bolted the rockers ect down with the cam in the wrong position!!!! i feel like an idion but oh well!! it took me days to figure out what was wrong..... i checked everything about 5 times till i did a compression test on it... the rear valve wasnt hardly bent... only enough to loose 10 psi, the the first cylinder valve was way bent!! the compression tester wouldnt read a reading!! well hopefully its not that but just a thought... hope u get ur truck runnin!!
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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by the way.. that wasnt underscore002 it was me... i was on my bros name, forgot to switch!!!
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Old 04-08-2005, 06:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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put the bottom pulley on zero then look at cam gear for the dot at 12 oclock
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Old 04-08-2005, 06:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have an 85 carbed 22r and the carb to me is greek. I got the Factory Service manual and it saved my ass best 100 bucks i ever spent. i heard that some peole have the FSM on cd and can email you pages if they like. try that for the vaccum diagrams that will help you figure out if they are all going to the rihght spot. In my case i had other things in the vaccum system that needed to be rplaced to get the brand new carb to work right. I was able to diagnose all these thigns with the FSM, Good luck and be patient you will figure it out.
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Old 04-08-2005, 07:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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has the idle mix screw been drilled out? if so, you're going to have to mess with it(generally you don't ever want to touch this, that's why it's plugged). baseline for the early carbs was 2.5 turns out and i think the later ones were 4 turns out. consult a FSM or look at autozone's repair section online
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Old 04-09-2005, 10:05 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Well here is an update. I went home and checked the bolts holding the carb down and they were loose. I tightened them up and put the vacuum lines in all of the right places. I was able to get the truck to idle at approx 1k rpm's. I decided to pull spark plug wires one by one and lo and behold the #2 and #3 cylinders didnt make a difference on how the truck ran. I busted out the compression tester and I have absolutely ZERO compression on cylinders 1-3. Cylinder #4 reads approx 150 psi. The weird thing about this is that I decided fawk it and took the truck for a drive. The truck drives like a dream. Lots of power throughout the rpm range and was even able to lay down a nice peg leg burnout. What the hell now???? I picked this truck up to have something to work on while waiting on parts/money for the buggy and to make a little cash. Am I a complete moron or will a toyota run (well) on one cylinder??? Checked the oil and its nice and clean with no indication of coolant in it??? All of the valves look like they are closed the whole way so I guess it could be a head gasket that is burned out between cylinders. I will do some more work on it tonite and report back with my findings.

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Old 04-09-2005, 04:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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it could be the head gasket... hopefully it is only that... but you cant really tell if a valve is bent... did you take the head off and check it out or did you just look in the intake ports??it really doesnt take much to bend it and wont be totally obvious if its bent... especially if ur lookin through the intake ports.... my suggestion would be.. pull the head... check out the gasket and deffinatly check the valves.... that would be what i would do... is the engine rebuilt? i dont remember?? and if you do have bent valves..... either rebuild the head or atleast put new valve guids in were the bent valves were..... they crack and is kinda hard to see sometimes... good luck
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Old 04-09-2005, 04:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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oh a bit of advice.... only get a genuine toyota head gasket!!
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Old 04-09-2005, 05:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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nah, 90% of how well a head gasket holds is due to the flatness/cleanliness of the head and block. the rock brand gaskets engnbldr sells are nice because they have metal "slipper plates" that help if you have any imperfections. i broke my cam the other day and had to do a gasket, so i rolled the dice and bought an "engine seal" brand from vatozone. so far it's holding up great, time will tell. i did take some 2000 grit sandpaper and a scotchgard pad to the head, and cleaned up the block really nice though(i just build the engine 2000 miles ago)
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Old 04-09-2005, 11:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I didnt get to work on the truck tonite, but when I get a chance I will pull the head and look at it. At this point I am almost ready to sell the damn thing the way it is. The shame of it all is that the rest of the truck is awfully clean and it has obviously never been wheeled. I will let all of you know what I come up with so others searching can learn too. Thanks again everyone.

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Old 04-11-2005, 02:01 PM   #22 (permalink)
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dude like i said i hope its nothin bad... im goin in today to get my valves and valve guide put in =(... finally gonna get my truck funnin after about 3 weeks!!! but hey if the truck is really clean ect.... and you have a dd... just stick with it, as long as the whole engine isnt totaled, ya know what im sayin... be patient with it!!! i got really unpatient with my 80 and sold the damn thing, i really regreted that!! it was cherry with a new paint job and motor ect!!! but oh well.... got a little impatiant with my truck now that i just bought but i just told myself to slow down... do everything right while you got it apart and you will never have to deal with the same prob again!! well good luck
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Old 04-11-2005, 03:30 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The truck will not run like that if only one cylinder has compression. If you are basing decisions on 3 cylinders having zero compression but the engine still runs good, I would do the test over. If it will idle around 1k or less, then you can check for intake manifold leaks if you haven't already.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:12 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I had to step back for a couple of days and take a break from this project. I picked up a tranny and tcase for my buggy and now tonite I think I will get back into this project. I will check the intake for tightness and redo the compression test. Again, thank you for all of your help.

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Old 04-12-2005, 02:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
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This is more than likely only a simple problem with your carb!

If it is idleing near 2,000RPM and you are unable to lower it with the idle speed screw, the carb is most likely stuck in fast idle or you have a very large vacuum leak. There is a diaphragm at the right rear of the carb that forces the carb out of fast idle when the engine reaches a specific temp. Check this diaphragm to make sure that it is receiving vacuum.

Also, with the engine off fully screw in the idle mixture adjusting screw and then unsrew it about 4 turns. Be careful not to tighten the screw to tight. This will not give you a perfect idle mixture but it will at least put you in the ball park.

If you can't get the idle bellow 2,000RPM don't even bother checking your timimg because if the vacuum advance is working properly your timing will appear off. Your timing should be at 5 degrees BTDC at a max of 950RPM with the vacuum advance cut.

Last edited by TorK; 04-12-2005 at 02:29 PM.
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