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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Member # 7988
Location: Elkton, VA
Posts: 682
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I looked through all the threads on the 22re vacuum lines and I could clean up them with no problems, BUT, I have a 22r in my truck, not a Cali model. I read that the motor can run correctly on basically 2 vac lines to the carb.
I spent an hour last night trying to figure out what everything was and to remove them but I ended up just putting it all back. (I did however fix the exhaust leak I had, change the oil and filter, air filter and PCV valve.) I would like to clean up the mess of lines, canisters, modulators, actuators, etc.
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Tim '03 Honda TRX300EX, '91 Cherokee, '10 F250, last of the manual trans trucks, Elkton, VA |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 38118
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 733
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Basically you just need the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster, and the vacuum advance on the distributor. Then you have the line going to the PCV valve and the line from the air cleaner to the top of the valve cover. That is all I have on mine, took all the other crap off.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Member # 7988
Location: Elkton, VA
Posts: 682
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Thanks I will look at it again tonight. I just ordered the block offs for the EGR and air injection. But I had figured that I was going to just have to pull on thing off, test. If it still runs and doesn't cause a DD drivability issue, it was gone. Then, repeat.
What is the valve that is in the bottom of the air cleaner housing, brassy in color?
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Tim '03 Honda TRX300EX, '91 Cherokee, '10 F250, last of the manual trans trucks, Elkton, VA |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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i was wondering the same thing about my 87 22r...i have taken some of the lines off and have noticed a small drop in mileage..but its only been a week and a half (but it doesnt get great mileage with 4.30s and 35s
)is there not a line that goes to a canister mounted on the fire wall that is to help pressurize the gas tank?...and the charcoal canister that is on the passenger fenderwell is that necessary for the truck to run clean? where did you order your block off plates from...and where do you get the plugs for the vaccuum lines.
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'87 Xcab 5" IFS crap, 35" bfg muds, long leaf rear, / \ shocks, locked rear, OBA, more... D44 front and Tundra rear...its coming |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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i have been looking looking for information on cleaning up the engine bay of my 82 pickup. i found this link earlier today, and it has some of the components that are recommended to keep: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ht=22r+cleaner
i also read somewhere that you can follow the vacuum diagrams for the canada trucks, since they have less vacuum lines. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24837
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 2,059
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here's how i did it. i used an '83 canadian diagram. bought some block off plates from LC for the EGR and capped every vacuum line(ditched the metal vacuum lines and all the prehistoric emission control cluster fuck) except for the choke breaker, choke opener, AAP and vacuum advance. i don't use the HAI since i have a bling bling open element air cleaner and pluged the charcoal canister line since i don't have one of those either. drives perfectly hot or cold, wish i could've said the same for my POS weber i used to have.
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'79 toy, 20R/22R hybrid with oversized valves, thorley header, offy intake and 32/36 weber longbeds rock! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46202
Posts: 77
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so you actually bought a kit to plug off the egr? roflmao dude just jb weld some pennies on it. much cheaper. and the plug off things for the vacume lines? just use some superglue or even gasketmaker works well. either way though know what you're going through always looking to reduce the amount of vacume lines under the hood.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24837
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 2,059
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i dont like booty fab, i prefer mine to look good as well
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'79 toy, 20R/22R hybrid with oversized valves, thorley header, offy intake and 32/36 weber longbeds rock! |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5315
Location: Shoreline WA
Posts: 819
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Yeah the plates are cheap as well as the pipe thread plugs for the intake manifold. I've just got the power brake line, the PCV and the distributor advance.....and it passed emissions with a minimal jetted carb.
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86 22R Weber carbed Toy Truck |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18089
Location: state of disbelief
Posts: 297
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Quote:
I've been having problems getting mine tuned in and it's got to be with the routing of my hoses. I just took my best guess as I didn't know much about this stuff before just tearing in to this one and rebuilding it. Runs fine, just not right. Would love it to run perfectly hot or cold. Can ya help descibe or better yet, take some pics of your lines/routing??? BTW: I'm not for booty fab on my rigs either. I made my own egr b/o plates from a 1/4" think sheet of aluminium. Look great and can't tell I didn't buy em.
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Yoats n stuff |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24837
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 2,059
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didn't eliminate the BVSV(if that's the thing on the pipe that runs to the port on the head between the #2 and #3 intake ports). it's still there.
however, the setup is getting junked in favor of an offenhauser intake and weber carb, since my 22R carb always ran lean and it only got worse once i did the 20R head swap. for the first few thousand miles before i started having problems with the choke itself and the fuel cut solenoid(i'm thinking my ancient wiring harness is only giving me weak power) it worked great, but right now the truck is down so i'm tinkering with the engine some more.
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'79 toy, 20R/22R hybrid with oversized valves, thorley header, offy intake and 32/36 weber longbeds rock! |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18089
Location: state of disbelief
Posts: 297
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Quote:
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Yoats n stuff |
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