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Old 08-13-2005, 03:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Yota Frame Fix... ***DONE***

Gotta love the south... Typical VA Yota Frame... Solution 1/4" boxed for 36" That will give me about 8" of "good metal" on both sides of the damage... Wish me luck...




The tow rig for good meassure... '98 Z71- 6" procomp- 35" procomp MT's-4.11's


KEY WORDS FOR SEARCH: frame fix rust rusty holes in frame fixing frame useing 2wd frame patcing rust

Last edited by RSWORDS; 10-31-2005 at 07:11 AM.
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Old 08-13-2005, 06:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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good luck

This is a good thread and I think he did a great job of fixing his frame.
/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/345205-project-junior-87-runner-build.html
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Old 08-13-2005, 07:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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jesus, 1/4" thick tubing wtf is the point of that, stock frame is only like 3/32" or something?????
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Old 08-13-2005, 08:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Jesus was a carpenter, not a welder but even He may not have used 1/4" but overkill is better than under, right?
Stock frame is 3mm(.118") outside, and 2mm(.078") inside.
Looks like a good project. Keep the pics coming...
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Old 08-13-2005, 08:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Or maybe eventually buy a budbuilt frame
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Old 08-14-2005, 06:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Fawk, that frame is mint by Canadian standards! I had to plate almost my entire frame, but only used 1/8" & 3/16" stock. 1/4" is definately way too much.
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian_Zuk
Fawk, that frame is mint by Canadian standards! I had to plate almost my entire frame, but only used 1/8" & 3/16" stock. 1/4" is definately way too much.
No such thing as too much...

Last edited by RSWORDS; 10-21-2005 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 08-14-2005, 11:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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There IS such a thing as "too much", anyhow, good luck on your frame fix'n. I just went through the same thing with a 1st gen, and am almost finished with it. If your frame is in that bad of shape at the hanger, it's going to be in bad or worse shape elsewhere. You need to check it all out and fix it before you decide to put money into suspension. The frame is your foundation, and you can only build a capable truck with a supportive frame. The guys I wheel with have ripped and broke many frames over time, and let me tell you, 10 miles in some nasty backcountry trail you DO not this to happen! Here are some shots that may give you ideas.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y201/rngrchad/fab1.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...ramecutout.jpg
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Old 08-14-2005, 04:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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correct fix on a frame like that is possible but ALOT of work. also frame may already be bent out of whack on the rear section. by the time you go through all the effort you could put another rust free frame under it. i think i used 3/16 with 1/4 strap on the bottom on the last one i did.
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks
correct fix on a frame like that is possible but ALOT of work. also frame may already be bent out of whack on the rear section. by the time you go through all the effort you could put another rust free frame under it. i think i used 3/16 with 1/4 strap on the bottom on the last one i did.

Good luck finding a rust free frame around here... ... And I don't care about the work... Need another project anyway... The rest of the frame is in Okay shape. All i need it to do is make it through hunting season. Truck already has 35's w/ 5.29's and a locker in the rear so I don't want to junk it... I think it will come out just fine.
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey, That link above is to my build up thread where I redid the entire back end with nothing more than a wood stand, angle grinder, and a welder. I used a combo of 2x4x1/4 inch for above the front hanger, and the angle up and 2x3x3/16ths square tube for the rest of my rebuild. I ended up with 1/4 inch just because the steel house said they had the 3/6x2x4 and I drove down there and they cut a chink of 2x3 instead, and the only 2x4 was 1/4, so they gave it to me for no extra. Getting the frame straight was a not easy, but it all worked out in the end. Good luck finding the solid part to start from, but it can be done. My truck is finally up and running and it even drives straight down the road.

Also make sure the plate over the old to new frame joint.

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Old 08-14-2005, 09:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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.250 is not "overkill" on a frame patch!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-15-2005, 06:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traxman25
Hey, That link above is to my build up thread where I redid the entire back end with nothing more than a wood stand, angle grinder, and a welder. I used a combo of 2x4x1/4 inch for above the front hanger, and the angle up and 2x3x3/16ths square tube for the rest of my rebuild. I ended up with 1/4 inch just because the steel house said they had the 3/6x2x4 and I drove down there and they cut a chink of 2x3 instead, and the only 2x4 was 1/4, so they gave it to me for no extra. Getting the frame straight was a not easy, but it all worked out in the end. Good luck finding the solid part to start from, but it can be done. My truck is finally up and running and it even drives straight down the road.

Also make sure the plate over the old to new frame joint.

Adam

I read through that... Looks like a nice build and a good job. Truck looks real good and I hope it gives you no problems!
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:25 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RSWORDS
Good luck finding a rust free frame around here... ... And I don't care about the work... Need another project anyway... The rest of the frame is in Okay shape. All i need it to do is make it through hunting season. Truck already has 35's w/ 5.29's and a locker in the rear so I don't want to junk it... I think it will come out just fine.
i used to think rust free frames were unavailable until i started looking around a little harder-so now i don't bother with a rusty frame like the one in your pic. to fix it right, you should pull the tub and strip the frame anyway. besides, when i see this much rust at the back i can bet there is more. i didn't say junk the truck, i just suggested you junk the frame-replace it with a good one. less time involved with a better end result.
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks
i used to think rust free frames were unavailable until i started looking around a little harder-so now i don't bother with a rusty frame like the one in your pic. to fix it right, you should pull the tub and strip the frame anyway. besides, when i see this much rust at the back i can bet there is more. i didn't say junk the truck, i just suggested you junk the frame-replace it with a good one. less time involved with a better end result.
Any frame in my area is toast... We live right on the bay and the salt water environment destroys them... I could probably come out to Cenntral VA and locate one but I only have $500 into this truck so far (including buying it) and don't want to spend any more. It is just a beat-up hunting truck... when it breaks I might look at getting anoth frame or somthing for it.
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Old 08-15-2005, 01:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Check out www.kymc.org to see how I did mine. Look for kymtnyota
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Old 08-15-2005, 02:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kymtncrawler
Check out www.kymc.org to see how I did mine. Look for kymtnyota
Nice site... couldn't find your write-up but I only looked real quick I'll look in more detail when I get home.
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Old 08-15-2005, 07:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I lived in sandbridge, right on the water, my truck has been IN the ocean MANY times. Before and after I had it. And there is no rust on it. Look around some more. I still live in Virginia beach and know a couple other guys around here with toys that have no rust on their frames. Call around to some junk yards and see if they have any toys out there, might take a little while to find one but it will be much better than trying to fix that crap.
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:22 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I have a rather noob question since were on the topic of frames. Are the 2wd frames capable of being used or modified to work w/ a 4wd drivetrain? I've got access to 3 or 4 2wd frames all in good condition.
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:06 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Been a while since we had a chance to mess with this dam thing... Latest update... More rust and holes then the H.M.S. Titanic...


New Solution...
Cut the fawker off and try again...



A torch make removing things sooooo easy...


Think this would be a good wheel base for a rig? No?


The old frame...





The new frame... Off a long bed 2wd so the front-most mount for the bed has to move back... But other then that this thing is stout...



Our wonderful sophisticaded jig to ensure both frames had the same body mount locations...




I would like to thank Rob Love in Mathews for all his great work... He is doing a great job and I am feeling alot better about it then I thought I would.
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Old 10-21-2005, 11:25 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Went and picked up my Hy-steer and hydro assist from j-me4runner (great guy) last night... Looks good and can't wait to put it in. Also ordered the IFS install kit from marlin. I think I'm doing a average man/everyday build. I don't have the $$$ or need to go supper crazy... Just need a well rounded truck. I think a winch, sliders, and some lockers (why else would I need hydro assit) are up next.

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Old 10-21-2005, 01:24 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Looks familiar

After the cut:


Old frame:


New frame rails:


New frame rails installed:
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Old 10-21-2005, 01:50 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Looks familiar
I saw that.. your write up was one of the ones I was reading as to how to fix the truck... I was going to do what you did and make my own but we found the truck that had been in a front end collision for cheap. Is yours done?
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Old 10-21-2005, 02:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSWORDS
I saw that.. your write up was one of the ones I was reading as to how to fix the truck... I was going to do what you did and make my own but we found the truck that had been in a front end collision for cheap. Is yours done?
No, unfortunately I haven't made any progress since that last pic. I haven't seen the truck in about a month. My shop is about 3 hours away from where I live, so I have to make a special effort to work on the thing. Goin up next weekend to hopefully wrap up this part of the project. Good luck w/ yours!

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Old 10-21-2005, 03:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I just bought an '84 today and brought it home for $600, everything works and the body isn't in bad shape but the frame is decimated. Imagine the worst pics shown on here x 10 throughout the entire frame. I don't think any metal past where the engine mounts are is salvagable. Gonna start a search for a decent frame cause I don't think patching this thing would even be a reality.
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