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Arb Took A S$#t

1K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  TheRealTankota 
#1 ·
while wheeling it appears my front arb in my toy axle is not working! :mad3: I just put it up on stands and confirmed with their recomended test. Only one wheel spins while engaged/disengaged. I looked at the manual hubs but they are both working proper I believe. I guess I'm at a loss as to what next. Maybe my compressor is not putting out enough steam? I'm going to start checking my air lines but a brief inspection revealed nothing.......Any help is greatly appreciated!

-Falco
 
#3 ·
When you engage the front locker does your compressor cycle? And if so does it continue to cycle, like every 15 seconds? What were you doing when you realized it wasn't working? How long has it been in the rig?
 
#7 ·
Sell it and buy an E-locker. Air lines suck :flipoff2:


Seriously, if the compressor is putting out the pressure, lines look good, then check your birfs, shafts and 3rd member. 1st time I broke a birf and took out an axle shaft, it didn't make any noise at all.
 
#10 ·
I have broken several birfs that gave me know clues that they had broken other than the tire stopped turning. Have you actualy checked the pressure at the diff. going to the arb. I would guess a birf. would break before an ARB. especialy a stock or stock cryoed birf.
 
#12 ·
Are you using mechanical air or electric? My coalescing (sp) filter took a crap and let all my oil into the locker. I removed the air line and emptied it out.

I got lucky and did not have to drop the third and empty the locker itself, but my symptoms were the exact same as yours.


Good luck!
 
#13 ·
Just put mine back together after replacing a busted ring gear. Found blown o-ring. Above mentioned test of engaging and listening through fill hole should be able to diagnose this problem. BTW-my ARB still worked just pressurized the case and spit gear oil out the breather hose.
 
#14 ·
The solenoids go out on the compressor.
First start by engaging your rear ARB (if you have one). The wiring schematic shows 2 ways to wire one requires the rear to be engaged before the front will engage.

At your solenoid make sure it is attached to the compressor. the little "nut" can come loose and it will hang down and not make contact. Also check your wiring to make sure a wire did not melt or come loose. IS youre compressor working?

If you have front and rears switch the wire and see if it works using the other solenoid. If it is a bad solenoid 4wheel parts has them in stock in their warehouse but they are like $50. There are alternatives to ARB but you will have to search the Landcruiser mailing list to find them.

Anyway just a couple of ideas. I thought mine were not working on FJ40 and it turned out I had switched the wire front and rear at the compressor. :rolleyes:
 
#15 ·
OOP'S said:
Remove the fill plug and put your ear up to it to see if you can hear air leaking inside! :flipoff2:

OOP's is right. I used convoluted tubing to extend my breathers and when one of my ARB's developed an air leak the tubing would make a whistling noise that I could hear from the driver's seat. I will always use convoluted tubing from now on just for that fact alone.

Mine turned out to be a small piece of something embedded in the main seal that allowed it to leak air when it was cold, but would seal up once the diff reached operating temp. I just ordered the seal kit and replaced it and all has been good ever since.

Had my ARB's for over 10 years and I Love them.
 
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