22re timing chain procedure - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Toyota - Truck and 4Runner
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-20-2005, 11:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 21282
Location: Troy, MO
Posts: 3,512
22re timing chain procedure

Anyone got a rundown for how to do it?

The manual says remove the head, that can't be right.

Remove radiator, fan, belts, water pump, pulleys etc.

How bout some helpful hints or tricks that save time?

Like crankpulley removal, or some what not to do's?
91blaze is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 12:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Member # 10867
Location: HELL PASO
Posts: 918
Covered, like, eleventybillion times.

SEARCH!
__________________
[QUOTE=Mrs.CSR;14024539]You were good[/QUOTE]
DRTDEVL is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 09-20-2005, 12:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
4CrawlR's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4716
Location: Santa Clara, CA.
Posts: 4,163
Like this writeup...
4CrawlR is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 12:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 21282
Location: Troy, MO
Posts: 3,512
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4CrawlR

THANK YOU
91blaze is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 12:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 21282
Location: Troy, MO
Posts: 3,512
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRTDEVL
Covered, like, eleventybillion times.

SEARCH!
You're just a post padding ASS

I have searched, all were comments like yours or single specific questions on one particular part of the process.

I figured you toyota "loyals" would have tricks/tips/hints. And we could compile them, and possibly add to FAQs the whole write up.
91blaze is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 12:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Member # 23922
Location: sacramento CA
Posts: 987
i just got done doing a timing chain on a 22re.

dont remove head!! unless you want to
just make sure the portion of head gasket that is revealed by the timing cover commin off is not damaged
dont remove the radiator
make sure you remove battery terminal
remove the oil pan
dont remove the water pump unless you want to replace it
aside from that stuff just make sure you line the shiny or dotted part of the chain to the markings on the gears.
if your guides broke and the chain wore into the cover, inspect the cover for damage and wear...
toyboat is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 01:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 25697
Location: Jefferson, Oregon
Posts: 771
I used Rodger Brown's write up and recommend it to anyone (it's linked above). I've never done a timing chain before on a 22R series motor and his write was dead on.
__________________
72 FJ40
VinSil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 01:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Member # 53008
Posts: 15
Send a message via AIM to metaland
just remember that little bolt that goes under the cam bolt or you will be sorry. It usually hides in some oil.
metaland is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 02:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Member # 10867
Location: HELL PASO
Posts: 918
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91blaze
You're just a post padding ASS

I have searched, all were comments like yours or single specific questions on one particular part of the process.

I figured you toyota "loyals" would have tricks/tips/hints. And we could compile them, and possibly add to FAQs the whole write up.
Uh, huh... Yeah... Whatever you say...

Quote:
DRTDEVL
Registered User

Member #10867
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Beverly Hills, FL
Posts: 90
I'm such a post-padder, that I have amassed an amazing 90 posts in 3 1/2 years.

How about this: You bookmark Roger's site, and you shall see all the 22RE tech your heart desires. I'm pretty sure that links to his site could have been found in a search.

Lazy kidz these days... Can't even search up MAINTENANCE tech, much less fab work...
__________________
[QUOTE=Mrs.CSR;14024539]You were good[/QUOTE]
DRTDEVL is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 04:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 21282
Location: Troy, MO
Posts: 3,512
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRTDEVL
I'm such a post-padder, that I have amassed an amazing 90 posts in 3 1/2 years.

Lazy kidz these days... Can't even search up MAINTENANCE tech, much less fab work...

So you contribute nothing here and sponge off everyone else and pop in with you SEARCH knowledge.


THANKS!!! NOW GO AWAY
91blaze is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 05:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Member # 10867
Location: HELL PASO
Posts: 918
No... I have no questions to ask, I answer questions for those with legitimate ones, and I give stupid posters shit for posting an easily searchable topic (that I know has been answered several times in the last 18 months).

Timing chain is basic Toyota 101... NOT a topic for an EXTREME 4x4 website. This is something to ask on T4x4, 4x4Wire, or Yotatech, NOT Pirate. Learn the difference.

Oh, wait... This must be the new "Extreme" timing set.
__________________
[QUOTE=Mrs.CSR;14024539]You were good[/QUOTE]
DRTDEVL is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 08:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 21282
Location: Troy, MO
Posts: 3,512
Well excuse me for being new to toyota and not knowing of all the other sites you know off. You're an ASS. Please fuck off and die!

Cool I finally get to use the ignore feature.


*edit* just saw you were in FL. Watch out for Rita, you ignorant fuck

Last edited by 91blaze; 09-20-2005 at 08:23 PM.
91blaze is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 08:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
Granite Guru
 
reklund5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Member # 27179
Location: Henderson, Nevada
Posts: 716
Send a message via AIM to reklund5
FWIW, removing the head is the RIGHT way to replace a Toyota timing chain assy. I've done it both ways, and now I always remove the head. The reason being that you get a better seal between the head and the timing cover when the timing cover is already on and the head is set down on top of it. Trying to slide the timing cover in usually results in a small oil leak between the head and the cover. Unless the headgasket is relatively new, and you're super careful, it's easy to fawk up the front portion of the headgasket.

Just my .02
Ryan
reklund5 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 08:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 21282
Location: Troy, MO
Posts: 3,512
Good to know!
91blaze is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 10:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24496
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 271
I've had people tell me it can be done without unbolting and dropping the oil pan, which I say is bullshit. There's one sure fire way to fawk up that front piece of the head gasket that goes over the timing cover... and that is to try and force the timing cover back in place without lowering the pan some. I ended up having to cut up an old head gasket to replace that piece. Lots of RTV, a trip to the parts store for an oil pan gasket, and a few curse words later, and I was back in action.

SO, if you read a writeup that says not to remove the pan, disregard it, and make it easier on yourself, and remove the damn oil pan. The gasket is cheap, and it's a good idea anyway just to look in there while you have it apart.
NotMatt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 11:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
Registered User
 
DWitcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 40308
Location: Bakersfield, CA.
Posts: 1,241
Dude dont get all crazy when you re-install the front cover and use very little black RTV on the pan gasket and you'll be in like flinn. I can't tell you how many of those T-chains I've done and never dropped the pan with no leaks when done.
DWitcher is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-20-2005, 11:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Member # 7932
Location: norcal
Posts: 568
Those Haynes books are a bunch of crap...they give you a good idea, but always cross-reference. Here are some that may help ...

http://yotarepair.com/22R%20timingchain.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

I am ass-deep in mine right now, I pulled the head and I noticed that the guides were broken. Good Luck!
__________________
1985 EFI longbed 4x4
2003 Tacoma 4x4
halfxspaid is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2005, 06:26 AM   #18 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Member # 21282
Location: Troy, MO
Posts: 3,512
I'm deep in it now too.

Mine has 142k miles on it. And everything sounds and seemed top notch. I decided to do it and at the same time replace all the hoses, belts, water pump, oil pump just to know that the truck will be reliable and I can drive 10hrs, wheel and come back home.

I dropped the pan last night and found small pieces of the guides in the pan. The pan is easy enough to drop on a sas truck that its worth taking a peek in there.
91blaze is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2005, 07:04 AM   #19 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Member # 10867
Location: HELL PASO
Posts: 918
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91blaze
Well excuse me for being new to toyota and not knowing of all the other sites you know off. You're an ASS. Please fuck off and die!

Cool I finally get to use the ignore feature.


*edit* just saw you were in FL. Watch out for Rita, you ignorant fuck
COOL! Now that I have been ignored for the first time, I feel like actually answering (just to continue being an ass)! Here it is, step-by-step... Can't fawk this up. Maybe somebody will quote me so you can see it, you belligerent fawk.

If this is your first time doing engine work of this scope, take pictures, or better yet, follow the steps in the service manual. Follow up by taking notes or labeling bags for parts that are removed from the engine. Also, make sure that you have all the parts you will need to complete the job. In addition to the timing kit, you may consider replacing the following items:

Thermostat and Gasket
Fan Belts
Radiator Hoses and Clamps
Water Pump


Among the items listed above, I also suggest the following items be kept on hand:

Oil (Enough for a complete oil change)
Oil Filter
Coolant
RTV Sealer/Gasket Maker
Distributor O-ring Seal
Valve Cover Gasket and Seals/Washers


You will ALWAYS want to change the engine oil and filter once the engine is all buttoned back up. Debris (old gaskets, dirt, etc.) and coolant will fall into the oil pan and you don’t want to run that through the engine. If removal of the oil pan is done (see below) you will definitely want to change the oil and filter. Now is a great time to flush the cooling system and refill it with fresh coolant. If the condition of the radiator is suspect, pull it and have it checked by a local radiator shop.

There are several ways to go about replacing the timing chain components. One such way, and the one outlined in the Toyota service manual, is to remove the cylinder head and oil pan. While this is time consuming, it is the “right” way to do it. This method allows plenty of room to work on the timing chain and ensures a good seal between the head and the timing chain cover. The next way is to remove the timing chain cover and just the cover. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the oil pan in addition to the cylinder head. If pieces of the original (plastic) timing chain guides have fallen into the oil pan, they will need to be removed to prevent blockage of the oil pump pick-up screen. Failure to do so could starve the engine for oil…Not a good thing. Regardless of the method used, there are a few steps that need to be taken to begin this repair. Make sure you have a nice, clean area to work in and that you will have full access to both sides of the engine compartment. If the job is being performed on a 2WD truck, you may wish to jack it up and support it on jack stands.

If your truck is equipped with some sort of skid plate or splash pan, remove it for better accessibility to the underside of the engine. Drain the cooling system and disconnect the lower and mid (#3) radiator hoses. You may also want to remove the upper radiator hose to gain a bit more working room. While the coolant is draining, remove the cylinder head (valve) cover. Next, you can move on to the removal of the fan belts, fan and fan clutch, water pump pulley, and fan shroud. If your truck has power steering, you will need to remove the bracketry from the cylinder head and block, and set the pump aside. I personally like to tie it to the left inner fenderwell. Remove the upper alternator bracket from the timing cover (hold on to this bolt, it is one of the timing cover bolts) and move the alternator all the way over to the left side. You need not remove the alternator from its mounts or disconnect the electrical leads. If your truck has air conditioning, you will need to remove the compressor from the block and set it aside as well. There is no need to disconnect the lines from the air conditioning compressor. There is enough flexibility to move it aside.

Next, and possibly the most difficult task, is removal of the crankshaft pulley. Due to its placement in the engine, it is very hard to get any type of air tool into this area to loosen the large bolt that attaches the pulley to the crankshaft. There is an easy trick to do this. Find a socket to fit the crank bolt (19MM) and place it on a long-handled breaker bar. Place the socket on the bolt as if it were going to be loosened. Next, wedge the bar against the top of the left-hand frame rail. Make sure the handle will not come in contact with the radiator! Disconnect and ground the ignition coil wire from the distributor, as you do not want the engine to start with the breaker bar attached to the crank bolt! Usually, one short hit of the ignition key is enough to break the bolt loose. At this point, the bolt can be loosened by hand. The crank pulley should slide right off of the snout of the crankshaft but a puller may have to be used in some circumstances.

Now, reinstall the crank bolt back into the crankshaft. You will need it to rotate the engine. Set the engine to top dead center (TDC). Align the keyway in the crankshaft so that it points up and the "dot" mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o’ clock position. If they do not line up the first time, rotate the engine through one 180-degree cycle and they should line up, assuming the reason this for this repair is not due to a broken chain. Remove the distributor cap and see that the rotor points to the #1 cylinder (approximately 11 o’ clock when viewing the distributor from the driver’s side fender). Remove the 12-mm hex-head distributor hold-down bolt. Unplug the electrical connector at the distributor and pull the distributor out.

It is now time to remove the timing chain cover. Remove the crank bolt. If the oil pan has not or will not be removed, the two forward-most oil pan bolts need to be removed as they thread into the timing cover. Next, remove the #1 water by-pass pipe from the passenger side of the engine and the heater outlet pipe from the driver’s side. On 22RE-T engines, this is known as the #3 turbo water (cooling) pipe. There are 10 bolts that attach the timing cover to the block. One of these bolts passes through the water pump and has a 12-MM hex head (The other water pump bolts are 10-MM hex). Two of these bolts pass through the oil pump and one is threaded from the back-driver’s side of the block, near the heater outlet pipe/engine oil dipstick area. One more bolt often overlooked secures the cylinder head to the timing cover. If the head was not removed, this bolt will be located below the camshaft drive gear, which is on the front of the camshaft. This bolt is usually hidden in a puddle of oil. Getting to this bolt requires removal of the distributor drive gear and the fuel pump cam (on carburated engines only). To do this, loosen the 19-MM hex-head bolt that threads into the camshaft. Try to keep track of where the timing cover bolts come out during removal. A good way to do this is to draw a diagram of the cover on a piece of cardboard. Upon the removal of each bolt, press it through the respective spot on the cardboard. This will make it much easier to reinstall the timing cover as there are several different bolt lengths used to hold it in place.

As the timing cover has most likely been on the block for some time, it may not be easy to get off. In fact, it may put up quite a fight! First off, double check to see that all of the bolts have been removed, especially the two that I mentioned above and any associated with the air conditioning. A few raps with a rubber mallet may be required to break the cover loose. If the head is still on the engine, be careful not to damage the portion of the head gasket that seals the top of the timing cover. With the cover off, the timing components can be removed. Slip the oil pump drive spline from the crankshaft and set it aside. Remove the chain tensioner and guides. Slip the cam sprocket off of the face of the cam and the crank sprocket from the snout of the crank.

The fun is not over as the time has come to scrape gaskets! The engine block must be completely scraped and cleaned of all old gasket material to assure a leak-free seal. I like to stuff rags in the oil pan area, if it was not removed, to keep the old gasket pieces out. The timing cover will need to be cleaned of the old gaskets too. If the timing cover is greasy, it should be cleaned in some sort of solvent. If this is the case, I suggest removing both the water pump and oil pump from the timing cover. Most good timing chain kits, like the one sold by D.O.A. Racing Engines, come with a new water pump gasket and oil pump O-ring. Remove the old front crankshaft seal from the oil pump and replace it with the new one supplied in the timing kit. Consider replacing the water pump now if it is the original. Clean the forward (exposed) rail of the oil pan that is visible or clean the entire oil pan gasket surface if it was removed. Once the cover is clean, apply a thin bead of RTV to the cover and place the gaskets onto the cover. Apply RTV to the block side of the gaskets just prior to installing the cover back onto the engine.

Installation of the new timing components is the reverse of disassembly. Leaving the tensioner until last makes installing the chain a bit easier. The critical part of installing the chain is assuring that the camshaft and crankshaft are correctly timed together. Fortunately, most manufacturers of timing chain kits make this easy by clearly marking the chain and sprockets with timing marks. The chain will have bright links where it needs to be installed on the sprockets and the sprockets will have marks or dots where the chain needs to be placed, respectively. Due to the design of the timing components and the engine, the sprockets only fit one way on the crank and cam.

Set-up the chain and sprockets for installation. The “toothed” end of the crank sprocket faces forward. Slip the new crankshaft sprocket with chain over the snout of the crank. Do the same at the camshaft. I like to tie the chain to the cam sprocket to make sure it stays in the correct position. Getting the cam sprocket onto the cam takes some effort, especially when using a kit with a pre-stretched chain like D.O.A.’s kit. This is where the crank bolt comes in handy. Thread the crank bolt back into the crank and snug it down. While applying upward pressure on the cam sprocket, rotate the engine back and forth with a breaker bar on the crank nut. This will stretch the chain out a bit to get it over the front of the camshaft. With the cam sprocket on the cam, install the cam drive gear bolt temporarily to keep the sprocket from coming off. Install the guides and tensioner at this time. The long-sided tensioner goes on the driver’s side of the engine. Install the oil pump drive spline onto the crankshaft. You don’t want to forget this step! Before installing the timing cover, be sure all of the timing marks line up. If the water pump and/or oil pump were removed, reinstall them. Pour a little oil into the oil pump so that it will prime upon startup.

Apply a thin bead of the proper RTV to the oil pan. Some suggestions are Toyota’s black FIPG (Formed-In-Place-Gasket) or Permatex Grey “Import” or black RTV. Apply RTV to where the cylinder head joins with the timing cover. Gently install the timing cover onto the engine. Be patient as the RTV on the oil pan and timing cover locating dowels on the face of the block will create some resistance. Also, the oil pump drive spline may not immediately engage into the oil pump. When the cover is flush with the block, the bolts can be installed. Torque the 8-MM (12-MM hex head) bolts to 9 ft-lb. and the 10-MM (14-MM hex head) bolts to 20 ft-lb.

Next up is reinstallation of the miscellaneous componentry such as the air conditioning, alternator, and power steering. Install the water tubes back into the timing cover. Place the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the fan, fan clutch and fan belt.

To install the distributor, first make sure the engine is set to TDC. Place the distributor rotor in the 12 o’clock position and install it into the cylinder head. When the distributor contacts the drive gear on the cam, it will rotate counter clockwise to the #1 firing position or TDC. The timing may not be exact, but it will be close enough to get the engine running. Plug in the electrical connector for the distributor. Install the bolt and snug it down and install the distributor cap.

Install the crankshaft pulley and torque the large bolt to 116 ft.-lb. This can be accomplished with several methods. The key is to keep the crankshaft from turning while torquing the bolt. My personal favorite is to chock the wheels and place the transmission in the highest gear (4th or 5th) and the parking brake engaged. If the vehicle is 4WD, place the transfer case in 4-Hi, and lock the hubs. This will create the most resistance in the drivetrain. An alternate method is to use a chain or strap-type wrench to hold the crankshaft pulley in place while tightening the bolt to specification. Either way is effective and depends on personal preference and tool availability. Install the camshaft (valve) cover and any other parts removed from the engine. Tighten the fan belts and reattach any vacuum hoses and electrical connections that were disconnected. Change the engine oil and filter. Install the radiator (if removed) and radiator hoses. Fill the cooling system with the correct mixture of anti-freeze and water. Check once more that any items that were removed or disconnected are back in place. Remove any tools from the engine compartment.

Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Note any unusual sounds. Timing chain replacement is straightforward and provided the instructions in the service manual were followed, the engine should operate normally. Shut off the engine and check the fluid levels and inspect for leaks. Start the engine once more and set the ignition timing per the underhood emission decal. EFI-equipped trucks are set to 5-degrees BTDC with the EFI check connector shorted. Carburated trucks should be set to 0-degrees BTDC with the vacuum lines disconnected from the vacuum advance unit.

All that is left to do now is drive your Toyota another 100,000 trouble-free miles. Knowing the timing chain has been replaced means more piece of mind and hopefully many more years and miles down the road.



Take that, you ignorant fawk.
__________________
[QUOTE=Mrs.CSR;14024539]You were good[/QUOTE]
DRTDEVL is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply





Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.