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Old 11-01-2005, 05:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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22r cold valve clearances?

does anyone have valve clearances for the 22r that you can set with the engine cold? I installed a cam and am going to be dropping my engine in tomorrow and would like to get the valves as close as possible before i start it, thanks for any help
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It's suggested on here to go .001" tighter than spec on a cold engine to get you close.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanman2003
my haynes manual says how to do it, and so does my FSM. i like to tighten it .001 tighter on intake and exhaust while cold, cause it sucks to work on a hot motor, and it usually cools down too much by the time i get the damn valve cover off, stupid heater hoses.
Here's the quote I read the other day. I just did an advanced search for "valve adjustment" in the Toyota Trucks & 4Runners section.

Post up some pics of your rebuild.
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemommaaa
does anyone have valve clearances for the 22r that you can set with the engine cold? I installed a cam and am going to be dropping my engine in tomorrow and would like to get the valves as close as possible before i start it, thanks for any help
What does the cam manufacturer say to spec the valve lash? You can probably safely go .001" tighter when setting cold. After you break in the cam, I'd immediately pull the rocker cover and re-adjust to the cam spec. while the engine is at normal operating temp.
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Old 11-01-2005, 07:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Doesn't metal expand when hot? I would set it .20/.30 or MORE ?

Correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 11-01-2005, 07:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ev13wt
Doesn't metal expand when hot? I would set it .20/.30 or MORE ?

Correct me if I am wrong.
thats what i thought... wouldent you set it more loose?
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Old 11-01-2005, 09:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Intake valve is set at .008 cold, exhaust is set at .012 cold. This is unless your cam manufacturer states otherwise.
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Old 11-01-2005, 10:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Call TOYOTA or maybe LC ENGINEERING. These people will know fo shizzle.
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Old 11-02-2005, 05:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ev13wt
Doesn't metal expand when hot? I would set it .20/.30 or MORE ?

Correct me if I am wrong.
You're wrong... you meant to say .002" or .003"... didn't you?
Gnarls.

Last edited by Gnarly4X; 11-02-2005 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 11-02-2005, 06:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Gnarly4X
You're wrong... you meant to say .002" or .003"... didn't you?
Gnarls.
I am using MM, as the trucks are built in the decimal, and that is what it also says under my hood for the 22re cam?

0.20 MM and 0.30 MM
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Old 11-02-2005, 07:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ev13wt
I am using MM, as the trucks are built in the decimal, and that is what it also says under my hood for the 22re cam?

0.20 MM and 0.30 MM
Gawd I love the metric system... when I tell my wife in Japan my "little" dick would be 184.15 mm long... she just laughs outloud!!!
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Old 11-03-2005, 06:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Gnarly, are you sure you didn't mean to write it is .002", or .003" ?? I thought raisins had to be measured by US standards........maybe it just depends where it's grown ;-)
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim@DOA
Gnarly, are you sure you didn't mean to write it is .002", or .003" ?? I thought raisins had to be measured by US standards........maybe it just depends where it's grown ;-)
What the phuck are your trying to say??
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Old 11-03-2005, 11:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Old 11-04-2005, 12:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Gnarly4X
What the phuck are your trying to say??
Gnarls.
x2

I usually set mine 0.01" tighter than spec as well... just because everything in my engine is worn out, and I don't like ticking.
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Old 11-04-2005, 12:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 11-04-2005, 12:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wazzobie
actualy your 100% correct 22R's like .011 on the exhaust way more so then the .012 spec Hot

So cold I would set the exhaust at .009 and the intake at .006
That's pushing it as far as guessing goes as far as 'm concerned. I don't like burnt valves
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Old 11-04-2005, 01:21 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Old 11-04-2005, 05:48 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keaponlaffen
x2

I usually set mine 0.01" tighter than spec as well... just because everything in my engine is worn out, and I don't like ticking.
This is not necessarily a bad idea. If you set the valve lash a little tighter it makes the cam look bigger to the engine. If your cam lobes are worn some, tightening the lash will help. Although I haven't heard exhaust valve burning as an issue with the 22s, the top of the valve transfers a lot of it's heat from the face to the head when it sits on the seat (seat time), so it needs some time on there. On both my 22RE and my 22R, I found that my engine was happier when I set the lash at a tight .008/012 or .007" and .011". I found that at .008/012, sometimes I'd get one or two rockers that would NOT quit ticking. That's just my worthless opinion.
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Last edited by Gnarly4X; 11-04-2005 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 11-04-2005, 10:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazzobie
thats not guessing thats been confirmed by me using a go/no go feeler gauge
many different times, try it and confirm it your self will see its true.
Right on. Go/No go feelers are something everyone should invest in, they're pretty sweet. Anyways, just personal preference, I just prefer to set mine "hot" (really just warm by the time you get everything apart), 0.01" tighter, then I know I'm good. Some guys get a little brazen when setting their valves, set them too tight, and in no time burn a few valves.

I hope everyone understands that valves need their "Seat" time, which is when the valve is closed. Losing just a few thousands of a second on the head could mean lots of heat that can't be dissipated. Also, if you go too far, your valves won't fully close, and you'll actually lose power . Of course, this is if you go stupid Noob style and crank 'em tight.


Different strokes for different folks though. Kinda like my boss sets up heavy truck diffs with about 0.03" backlash.... most are say... 0.15". He's never had a failed one though.. go figure.
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