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Old 10-04-2011, 02:17 PM   #26 (permalink)
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If you have a 1982 22r and you buy the Silicone Vacuum hose from Trail Gear…. And you call them to make sure that one 10’ roll will be enough because you don’t want to have to place two orders, and the rude customer service guy says “Yes” and you say; “Even with all the emissions stuff” and he tells you “ 1982 22r emissions system does not have this diameter of hose on it”
Don’t listen to him because he’s full of shit!
Also the tubing is kind of weak… it slices open super easy like butter.
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:29 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nebraska toyota View Post
I have a 1984 toyota 4x4 with 22r and when I drive it for a while then shut it off and go back out to starte it the truck will not starte. All it does is turns over wait about half hour starte right up. Some times is a hard starter in the mornning as well. Anybody have idea what it might be? I all ready put new plugs,wires,cap and rotor nothing still the same thing. Somebody said something about the AAP haven't tried that yet. Thanks if anybody can help me out with this issue.
Sounds like a choke issue. When its cold pump the throttle twice and open the air cleaner to see if the choke flap is closed.
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:15 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nebraska toyota View Post
I have a 1984 toyota 4x4 with 22r and when I drive it for a while then shut it off and go back out to starte it the truck will not starte. All it does is turns over wait about half hour starte right up. Some times is a hard starter in the mornning as well. Anybody have idea what it might be? I all ready put new plugs,wires,cap and rotor nothing still the same thing. Somebody said something about the AAP haven't tried that yet. Thanks if anybody can help me out with this issue.
i had sorta the same problem, sometimes your fuel that is pulled into your carb is just enough to keep it running but it is not bringing enough in to fill the bowl and it takes a little pumping to fill it to get it started, check ur fuel lines maybe they are clogged up, when i drove mineit would burn all the fuel and not suck enough in the carb and would die and not start so if u havnt check ur fuel lines or your tank might have junk in it also
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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1988 (carb) toyota pickup

i just got this toyota pickup a week ago.
well, started off you could run it for a while but when u come to a stop it would idle low and want to shut off.
So, first off i messed with my idle control screw and it would idle up but would still skip and sputter bad.
After it sets for a while it will not crake back up but just as soon as u poor a little gas back into the carb it will fire right up but still run like crap.
The truck used to have the EFI motor in it but was replaced with a Carb.
So that means thiers wires for the EFI motor hanging loose everywhere.
Ive tryed pluging in vacuum lines different but still the same result.
Please someone thats had this same problem give me a idea of where to start.
im completely lost on this one.

thanks
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:55 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I have a 22re from a 91 2wd (canada). LC EGR block off plates. the only thing i need to hookup is the fuel pressure regulator. can i run a line from the TB to the vsv beside the thermostat and from the vsv straight to the regulator?

hope that makes sense to someone.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:34 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Tasherman try the 84re pic that is the same as my 86 22rec
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:36 PM   #32 (permalink)
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My 86 truck doesn't match any of the diagrams in this thread or any diagram in the 85 & 88 FSMs that I found on-line. The dealer printed out a diagram for my 86 from their on-line system and it doesn't match that either. The SMOG tech won't pass the truck because there are open ports and my under-hood diagrams are gone! The ports are on two VSVs that are part of the idle valve that bypasses air around the throttle as described by others earlier in this thread. As suggested I think that they are not part of the emissions controls proper and that thats why they are not shown on the emissions diagram; but their not shown in the P/S or A/C section of the FSM either ? My truck is a 1986 California SR5 w/22R-E, P/S and A/C. Can anyone post a diagram from a FSM or a picture of an under-hood diagram for a truck that shows how these two VSVs are connected?

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Tasherman try the 84re pic that is the same as my 86 22rec
Do you realize that post is from
Old 03-05-2010, 03:51 PM
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Old 07-12-2014, 07:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Vacuum and charcoal canister revival...

OK, I know this post is entirely old... like me and my 80 truck...

But after a week of searching the net I have a truck that runs great, except when I introduce the vacuum to the canister!

I need to understand the system better.



OK, I have a VSV, but it has a bleed to atmosphere. The only way it runs is if I basically cap the vacuum bleed to the canister. I got an OEM truck canister with x3 ports. One for the tank vent, one from the carb-which is a 38/38 Weber with the bowl vent ONLY venting to the charcoal canister(modified).

I am pulling from manifold at ~#4 port near the back of the intake. Is this my mistake?

The Weber would have only been introduced to atmosphere if I am follow the flows right. Would a fitting on to the air cleaner be all I need?




THANKS for resurecting an old post!!
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:01 PM   #34 (permalink)
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So I found astock truck in the yards today. If I follow the routing right, I get a vac feed from the intake at about the 1/2 location, this goes to a VSV llocated in the water jacket between 2 and 3. This 2 port VSV then opens (when up to operating temps?) to pull vac from a Emmisions box(?) but it could just be a switched relay, then this ports to the charcoal canister.

With no cat, and the vac line basicly capped the truck runs great, minus the lean out I saw pullin the top of 3rd, this is most likely the cheap Ford carb pump I'm running.

I also resurected a Holley Blue that was noisy when pulled, I can certainly put a regulator in and run it too.



All in all I need some feedback to see if I follow this right, do I need a switch (key on VSV-I have one that will work in place now) AND a h2o activated VSV(this I would have to find)?
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