Just took some sort of aftermarket springs on the front of my '85 Toy 4runner. The RUF springs currently consist of two main rears plus 4 leaves from a Waggoneer. The RUF FAQ says that RUF moves the axle 2" forward. So far, so good.
However, the difference between the center hole on what was on the 4runner and what I want to put on now is 3". Pics are below (current springs are on top, rusty springs are the RUF). Both springs measure 44" hole-to-hole measured along a straight line on the concrete; the Toy springs center hole is at 22" from the left; the RUF center hole is 25" from the left as you see them below.
Am I OK or do I need to drill new perch holes to move the center bolt hole back one inch for a two inch difference. I don't think I can accommodate 3" forward with my high steer.
There is no mil wrap on the current springs; in the first pic, the replacement spring mil wraps are to the right. There's one extra leaf on the second top current springs.
On the replacements springs, the last time I took them apart, I didn't put the Waggies set on correctly, it will be fixed before installation.
slabcrawler said:
Try measuring the pin off set along the spring instead of across it and see what the difference is. Throw them on there and lets have a look bet it's ok.
Do you mean across the curve of the spring, instead of a straight line like I did?
We put one set on today, it was on the right; it fit but the new spring hanger wasn't installed. I also measured another Toy with upgraded springs, it was a '86 with the SAS in; the center hole measured 25" from the rear just like mine. So tomorrow, I'm going to install the front spring hanger (Trail-Gear's, if it matters) and try it out. If I get interference with the tie rods, I'll drill new holes in the spring perches.
Try measuring the pin off set along the spring instead of across it and see what the difference is. Throw them on there and lets have a look bet it's ok.
You can drill the perches if you want. The right way to do it is to hack the radiator mount and move your steering box way forward. Then drill the perches to move it even further forward. Also I assume the grade 8 bolt is just holding the pack together temporarily? The center pins are designed to shear, A weak point that prevents you from tearing loose your entire axle. Oh and don't forget the clamps. You're gonna want those...
looks like your fawked. The only other thing you could do is hack the radiator support and move the box forward more and then mabey even chop the pittman arm.
wait to see what it looks like when you have weight on the springs. Remember they will flatten out a bit with weight on them and with the shackle on the rear whould move the rear axle back a bit.
Today's goal is to tighten the spring bolts up (I'm going to give that job to my son) and to start hacking the stock shock mounts up so I can fab up the Ford SM's and (hopefully) order the Bilsteins tomorrow.
Pic with the wheels on the ground; it looks like it clears and I now have some room to flex as evidenced by the 20 degree or so tilt of the rear shackle:
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