so i am finishing up my long project, of putting a ford351w/c6/1356 in my 90 toyota ex cab with a reg. cab frame. It sits on hp60 front and a 60 in back as well. I started working on my transfer case cross member and the fawking drive shaft is in the way, big time. so i am doing a crazy cross member that ties into the frame in three spots. a picture is worth a million words so i will post as many as you guys want.
my main question here is not how to make the cross member but more on bushing direction,
let me exsplain: can i put a bushing on one side of the t case cross member one way and put the bushing on the other side the other way. like rotating ing 90 degrees... here are the pics hope it shows what i am talking about.
Your pictures suck, can't tell wtf is going on.
Is the guy, is the bear??
I'm gonna say yes, a bushing is a bushing.. Doesn't care about the orientation. The only reason they are long one way is for a bolt to go through. Use the flash on your camera or something, way too dark for me to see jack.
Dan
EDIT: Your drawing explains it perfectly. Seems fine to me.
i broke my camera, so i used my roomates, and his is like forty years old and i couldnt get the camera to flash. but if you look at it theres pleanty of detail to make out whats going on.
You should be fine locating the xmembers like that, but personally I like the idea of the Bud-Built and FROR design with the skid plate. To me it looks like you got lots of places to get hung up and/or damage your drivetrain.
why are you trying to do this? Do you not have enough room for a driveshafthoop? I think going up and over the driveshaft to the othere side of the frame would be the strongest.
That is if there is enough room to clear it but I cant really tell. Maybe a shot up the driveshaft would help if you want to go that route.
Jeep guys do this sort of crossmember all the time, FWIW.
The answer to your alignment question is thiis: it depends on the bushing.
Front Range Off-Road Fabrication, Advance Adapters, and others use a donut-style bushing that sandwiches a metal plate -- that should be used so that the primary forces go perpendicular to the sandwiched plate (inline with the bolt). The spring-bushing style bushing you show is used with a tube-sleeve, and ideally, the forces should be perpendicular to the sleeve (and perpendicular to the bolt).
Plenty of folks (mis) use this type of bushing in other alignments, though, so just remember that the more parallel with the through-bolt, the less the bushing is working the way it should, and the more likely it is to just pinch off the bushing shoulder and go metal to metal.
FWIW, it is good to match the type and density of your motor and tranny mount bushings... this is less critical on a three-mount system (two motor, one tranny) and more important on a four-mount system (two motor, two tranny), especially with wide-set spacing between them.
I just bolted a 351w and a C6 into my toyota project. I'll probably try to salvage the crossmember I modified out of the bronco I'm tearing apart to do this but then again I may start from scratch. What did you do btw to run your exhaust? I'm thinking of going outside the frame above the slider bars I'll be putting in. I'm going to be building in about 3" of body lift as well with steel and then either using the stock body bushings or robbing some of the FS bronco. If you are interested I could PM you with my progress and pics.
in the MS paint drawing, the light blue is a .188 flat belly. The under side will be complety flat with nothing to hang up on but the blots on the stock t case mount
dont do a body lift, be as low as possible. if i dosnt fit, "MAKE IT FIT"
I am sure some of you will have with that one
I want to run the exhaust out the front,( i am running a rear radiator) but i think the fumes would get to me, so i guess will be spending some time with the bender and doing some notching... As you can see there is very little room between the frame rails. Running it out side the frame rails is another option. But i want to do a boat side in the near future....
I'd like to know how much you had to cut out of the floor to make it fit with no body lift. I won't be using pucks. I'm welding in square tube to replace the stock body mounts. I'll also be running a 203 case upside down and a 205 flat as I can without creating interference with the frame. I also have a Ford D60 which I've mounted in. The front rear hangers won't be complete untill I integrate the sliders and exhaust in. I feel I'll be running pretty low which will compensate for a couple inches altitude in the cab. I doubt it will even be noticeable when I'm done as I won't be using the front clip either. Anywho It'd be cool if we could help each other out since we are running very similar set ups. Take Care. NORM
well, all my major fab work is complet, ass soon as i get the cross member done and fill in all the holes in the floor, and plum the bitch in, she's rready for the trail,
i started a build up thread but work on it has been very slow so i stoped updating it. And you can run the 205 as flat as you want with out any frame probs, your concerns should be the steering clearing your front sump(you said you used a 351w) they hang dow allot. my goal with this project was to be as low as possible with leaf springs.
i going to go start on the t case mount rite now, keep you guys posted on how it turns out.
Nice looking work.Could you send me a picture of the hole you cut in the cab? I'll be doing mine soon. I started my crossmember yesterday. I had similar ideas of bringing it back under the yoke.
Did it require a special CV joint or did the rear one slid right into the front? Was there a special seal needed?
well personaly i hate the idea of joggin the member back like that, but i had no choice really, it puts weird forces on the t case mount on the adapter and a wierd forces on the joints ect. will see how it holds up to my heavy right foot.
I'm thinking of coming up and over on the main crossmember too. My front output will be farther back because of the doubler so I think it will work. I'm going to wait and see how everything fits once it's all together and then take it from there. keep up the pics. I'm curious to see how you route your exhaust.
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