I just got done putting all new flex lines on, I made a few other hard lines, I blew out all the fluid in one of the longer lines that run the length of the frame, and I had the junction block off at the front passenger side wheel so all/alot of the fluid drained out of the 2 front lines. So my system has a ton of air in it.
I did not touch the master cylinder and I see I still have a little bit in the bottom of the resevoir so I don't plan on having to bench bleed the thing.
I've done brakes before and I have bled them plenty of times before, but never with more than half of the system full of air. Is there any tips for getting it all out in short order? Or to ensure that I get it all out? I'm just trying to be thorough here.
I don't plan on using my mighty vac this time. It ain't that great and it's slow as hell. I was planning on filling up the master cylinder with Toyota brake fluid, then having my wife do the brake pedal thing while I hit the bleeders on the drivers rear, passenger rear, passenger front, drivers front, on the pedal down stroke only and in that order. I will have a tube on the nipple as it bleeds out too. I took off the stock proportioning valve so I don't need to worry about that.
Other than that I can't think of anything else that I can do to help get all the air out. Can you?
Gravity bleeding is the best. Pumping the pedal will aerate the fluid; causing millions of tiny air bubbles that will stick to the inner walls of the tubing.
It will take a good while; but gravity is your best bet.
Brakes - Bleeding
This is the proper way to bleed your brakes to avoid spongy brakes, etc...
Originally posted by Opp's
----------------------------------------------------
"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)
----------------------------------------------------
Gravity bleed them, open all the bleeders. When I did it the DR started dripping first, then the PS, then the PF then the DF. I do not know where the LSVP would play in here, I do not have one. Close the bleeders as they start dripping. Once done Bleed them the way you would any other time.
when i put new lines in all over my runner, i used gravity. I took all 4 bleeder screws all the way out, and kept feeding the resevoir till only fluid was flowing out of the brakes, then while they were still seaping i screwed in all 4 bleeders back in and used the pump the pedal method to get the last of the air out, it worked like a champ, brakes are 110% now!
OK, now I'm pissed again. I WAS only about 50 minutes away from being able to drive my Runner again..............then I broke off one of the bleeder bolts, right rear.:mad3:
Soooooooooo, what's the easiest way to get the broken part out in that confined area??
OK, now I'm pissed again. I WAS only about 50 minutes away from being able to drive my Runner again..............then I broke off one of the bleeder bolts, right rear.:mad3:
Ouch
So; the nickname "Moose" fits :shaking:
Glad to hear you have it fixed.
One last tip; to keep fluid from leaking when you open the system for service:
Depress the brake pedal about halfway and hold it at that point with a piece of broomstick against the seat. It blocks the fill orifice on the master cyl and will keep the fluid where it belongs.
I have used this many times; and it's a good thing to remember when on the trails replacing a chunked axle.
Wow, you actually HAVE done this with a small easy out flecker? Congrats!! I just got done reading a few online posts about guys breaking those things all over the place. That's been my experience too.
I have deep down fears that I am going to have to remove the whole whatever it is that I have to remove to get my drill in there and do what I have done in the past. Which is taking a small drill bit to the existing hole in the broken part and gradually go bigger and bigger on the drill bit size till I am just a hairs width away from the threads. Then what usually happens is the left over metal just comes out with the bit or it breaks into smaller pieces that I then can fish it all out of the hole.
We'll see. Tomorrow morning I guess I will start day 1,239 of working on this thing without being able to drive it. sigh
It's a british 1/8" fitting Moose. A tiny easy out will fit... it may be easier to drain the pumpkin and just pull the axle out some, or all the way. It only and e- brake pin, 1 flare fitting and four 14mm nuts to remove. It can be done though. They sell a tiny easy out at ACE for just the job, at least thats where I found mine.
When I was really poor and did not have a lot of tools I broke one off on my VW. I took a sheet metal screw and a small hammer (SFH) and tapped the screw into the hole. I was able to unscrew the piece by hand. Luckly I had a junk wheel cylinder and I took the bleeder out of it and screwed it in, good as new. You have got to make sure the wrench is straight, those things break. Especally with Mr Moose hands!!!!!!!!!:grinpimp:
Yea, ummmmm, I don't think that I am going to get away with just tapping a sheet metal screw in there and unscrewing it out by hand OOPS. I wish!
After rewinding my memory banks of just how much torque I was putting to that little 8mm wrench, two thoughts occurred to me.
1. What the FAWK was I thinking when I got to more than about 20 ft/lbs?!?!?!?!? (I do know better than that)
And 2. Just how much MORE torque is it going to take to get that little mother out of there??
The answer to question 1. of course is, " I just can't WAIT to drive my truck again with ALL of these new parts and to see how it rides. I haven't driven it in 2 months!"
I know you guys understand.:smokin:
The answer to question 2. is yet to be determined.
Just replace the wheel cylinder, they're only a few bucks. Shit, replace both sides. I wouldn't waste any more than a couple minutes trying to get a broken bleeder screw out of one myself for the cost of a new one.
Now there's a thought. I followed this advice today. Rather than get pissed off in the 95+degree heat today while I struggle with that stupid little problem, I just went to NAPA and got 2 wheel cylinders. I'm putting them in now. Then I'll get back to the gravity bleeding routine.
Theeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeen maybe I can finally drive my Runner again...................with the top off now or course.
Thanks for the advice.
One last tip; to keep fluid from leaking when you open the system for service:
Depress the brake pedal about halfway and hold it at that point with a piece of broomstick against the seat. It blocks the fill orifice on the master cyl and will keep the fluid where it belongs.
I have used this many times; and it's a good thing to remember when on the trails replacing a chunked axle.
Yes, I "Moosed" that bleeder up good.
And good tip about the pedal postion. I was just looking at pictures of the inside workings of a master cylinder yesterday, so I understand the mechanics of how that would help hold the fluid in the lines.
I got the new cylinders in today and only gravity bled the system. I then test drove it to see how the pedal felt/brakes worked. They are good enough to lock up the wheels, but they are still a tad bit mushy and have a half second delay in them. I will be doing the old school method tomorrow and see if that can't take care of that last 5%.
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