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rotating knuckles, how much?

6K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  mxr148 
#1 ·
I'm running 5" allpro's superflex (steering box in stock spot), dual cases with a budbuilt crossmember (no lift on member), and a CV HAD. Pretty typical setup, 5" SAS with duals. I decided to do a cut and turn after I pulled my housing back out of the truck for some repairs:shaking::shaking::shaking:. I've got things kinda rigged on jackstands taking the measurements, I just wanted to know if anyone with this setup remembers how much they tilted there pinion up. Want to compare to make sure my numbers aren't way off. I'm guessing mine has to come up about 20 degrees. Sound about right?
 
#7 · (Edited)
Every one seems to agree that about 4* of castor is correct regardles of how much you rotate your knuckles. My question is how have you guys been measuring the castor without having to go to an alignment shop? Can you place an angle finder on top of the flat part of the knuckle and measure the degrees. If so, then do you want the top of the knuckle 4* forward or 4* backwards.

In my situation I will be 4 linking my front axle and want to rotate the knuckles to point my pinion higher and get the castor correct. :shaking:
 
#8 ·
I used a cheapo Harbor freight magnetic angle finder.....I set it on the flat part of the high steer arms between the bolts and measured it from there. I gave mine 5 Degrees angled BACKWARDS. If you angle it forward your front wheels will do the "shopping cart" deal when you run down the road.
 
#9 ·
right now I have a stock 85' housing on jackstands

I put the angle gauge on the spring perches and set to 0 degrees. I then keep the housing from moving and put the angle gauge on the upper kingpin bearing race and get the same reading. So I know that if I rotate the knuckles and put new perches on at the same angle as that upper kingpin race, then my caster will remain the same and my pinion angle moved up the amount I rotated. But...if I want to squeak a few more degrees of positive caster, I can just simply do it by moving the perches more when I weld them on.

I think that came out harder than I typed it for some reason. I am thinking that 10 to 12 degrees of pinion up and a 2 or 3 degrees extra for increasing positive caster should do it? I figure if its closer than what the angle is now, the vibes will decrease.
 
#11 ·
12

Rotate it 12. 4" Pipe cutter ( grind weld first, DO NOT cut too deep ). Yes the kingpin bearing face is at the same angle as your perches. Driver side U-Bolt is sometimes tricky, but not too big of a deal. Over fill the diff. cause of the angle. Never a problem.
 
#17 ·
Max Volume, do you have a pic of the pass long u-bolt? I'd imagine you had to bend it just to get the holes on the plate to allow the u-bolt to fit. The reason I ask is I used a FJ62 axle for the sas on my 4-runner but with only about 8 degrees of pinion rotation and I had to bend the u-bolt just a little and I've been kind of worried about the strength of it.
 
#20 ·
I agree. I have done 2 axles. I bought one of those big pipe cutters and it wouldnt track right around the axle tube, it wasnt smooth enough. It also cuts by pinching the metal (like a piece of brake line with a tube cutter), this squeezes the tube steel into the knuckle steel making it hard to rotate the knuckle. Grinder was quick and easy.
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the pics Max Volume. Mine has'nt been wheeled much (Now I'm trying to wrap up my 3.4 swap) our u-bolts do look similar so I guess I'll live with it. I actually have thought about eliminating the u-bolts but no need to I guess. As far as the turning method, I had absolutly no problems using the
4" pipe cutter method, plus the knuckle balls turned just fine.
 
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