Well, after a couple of years of hard competition, the chassis is still looking pretty good. But with a few months between events, Dave decided it was time to take advantage of rule changes and fix some nagging issues.
Previous rules required a rectangular tube frame. But a 4" tall frame takes up a lot more room than a piece of 1.5" round tube, thus the frame was the upper limit of the suspension travel and also keeping the chassis from going lower. But lower is better.
We all know the benefits of a lower COG. Beyond that, the suspension geometry improves exponentially as the chassis gets lower. At ride height, the rear links were pointing uphill towards the chassis. Not bad for Dave and Brian's driving style of slow technical crawling. But when they had a big climb and had to hammer down, those up hill links pushed up on the chassis, lifting it and causing bouncing wheel hop. So we want the links to be level-ish.
First order of business - remove all panels and power wash. The entire rig was covered in oil after hydrolocking the motor at Donner, pulling the plugs and spitting oil geysers from the cylinders.
Then the radiator and winch were removed to see what we were dealing with to lower it...hey, that axle looks a little crooked in there...
Looks like the roll that hydrolocked the motor also buckled the frame from the side impact.
So I tacked in some temporary supports and we started cutting. Notice the crankshaft height in relation to the axle at ride height and with no air in the shocks. ~24" to center at ride and ~22 1/2" at full bump.
So with the frame out of the way and the shocks out, we dropped it down to see how low it could go.
Got another inch down until the AC compressor that powers the ARB and rear disconnect hit the diff. Out goes the AC compressor.
Drop it down again. 1/2" more and the upper link hits the frame and motor mount. We were trying to save the motor mounts, but we've gone this far - so cut it off!
Drop it down again. Dayum that's low. Yes, that is the oil pan skid you see peeking out from under the diff
Anyone want to guess the height of the crank pulley center now?
Man you are fast!!
(at taking shit apart!):flipoff2:
Are you going with longer shocks?
Are you adding more travel? Or just moving the travel cycle up?
i.e. were you able max out the shocks on drop previosly?
come on its dave, he changes his mind more than a pregnant woman looking for something to eat at 2am ... he didnt want to get hosed without a car for nationals or worlds.
AIRBUMPS DAVE YOU NEED AIRBUMPS for the front atleast. i know where some are that arent being used and wont be for a few months.
Since the wheels are 37" and half that is 18.5" with low tire pressure it will drop a little (1" is my guess). Crank shaft is hard to locate from pictures but somewhere around 1" below C/L of axle...
We're lowering the car 3" at ride height and still adding 2 1/2 " of up travel. Also raising the panhard which in effect puts the roll center even further above the CG.
The plan is suck the winches down and tip the car up on it's side walls. I'm pretty sure it will either sit there or flop back down to it's wheels.
Got my order of chromo tubing today, so I was able to get back to work on this.
But first I had to put the radiator, panhard and grill back in place to see what we have to work with. Looks like we might need a smaller radiator or move it to the back.
After measuring everything 15 or so times, I started bending up the new frame rails and fitting the existing down tubes.
Driver's side still had the old steering box mount. Cut that out, but kept the backside for now for the motor mount. The rails will get bent later to keep it narrow up front.
Also got more of the frame tie in done. These will be plated and plug welded all over.
OK Corey, more pics just for you. Got the rails bent in to the minimum allowed width. I think this thing is going to look killer when this is done:cool2:
That means so much coming from someone with your username:flipoff2: Thanks Paul. Get that rig done so you can come down to the Hammers and wheel, instead of hiding out on the other side of the lakebed.
With the steering arms flipped around, I was able to put the tie rod in front and mock up the panhard. So now I can see where the mounts have to go and how much room there is for the ram. Had to find a new home for the radiator, though.
All BS aside, having the luxury of working with you and having you prep the rig for the season has been the best investment I've made. I'll be down your way tomorrow.
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