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Old 06-14-2002, 09:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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'frenched in' spring hangers

i used the factory style spring hangers for the rear springs. its getting all tweeked and time to redo(like everything on this pig). anyone cutting into the frame rail and mounting the spring up into it somewhat, very low profile and not dangling down to get hung up on rox?? got pix?
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Old 06-14-2002, 09:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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jay's are the best I've seen so far.

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Old 06-14-2002, 10:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
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exactly the type of design i was lookin for, thanks morph!
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Old 06-14-2002, 10:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm getting ready to french mine. Will probably go at least 2" into the frame.
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Old 06-14-2002, 10:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Correct me if I'm wrong. I think you can get the rear spring hanger for $20 smackaroos each @ Front Range Off Road Fab Also I personally think its easier to go that route rather than fabricate one from the scratch.

Last edited by nightcrawler; 06-14-2002 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 06-14-2002, 10:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Here is what I did on my buggy...
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Old 06-14-2002, 11:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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frenching in your spring hangers in my opinion is at the top of the list for "best mod " on a leaf spring setup.

# 1 reason i would not make a obstacle was hanging up on those rock anchors.
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Old 06-14-2002, 12:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Not a very good shot, but here is Allpro's '89....


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Old 06-14-2002, 12:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Jay's go appear the be the shit!
good job.
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Old 06-14-2002, 12:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Chris Geiger
Here is what I did on my buggy... [/QUOTE

perfect chris, got a pic of the bottom of that? thanks
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Old 06-14-2002, 08:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Booger Weldz
Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Geiger
Here is what I did on my buggy... [/QUOTE

perfect chris, got a pic of the bottom of that? thanks
or what it looks like after the cut befor you welded the hanger in??
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Old 06-14-2002, 09:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Booger Weldz
Quote:
Originally posted by Chris Geiger
Here is what I did on my buggy... [/QUOTE

perfect chris, got a pic of the bottom of that? thanks
Here is the bottom...


This hanger was cut out from a short length of 3.5" square tubing.
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Last edited by Chris Geiger; 06-14-2002 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 06-14-2002, 11:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just mounted mine below the frame like stock, but moved them forward and welded in ramps so that they don't hang-up, which allowed me to use stock chevy 63" rears without lots of arch (for lift) whichh as we all know usually reduces flex and creates a harsh ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, can't post a pic.
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Old 06-14-2002, 11:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Another pic.....
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Old 06-15-2002, 03:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok...Time for the newbie bashing, get your flame thrower ready..

It seems to me that if that was done wrong it would weaken the frame?

Also if you are going to put that much effort into the relocating the hangers why not inboard them at the same time? For example on chrisg's buggy it seems a simple square tube across the top of the frame would do very well to hide the spring hangers and provide more cheap flex from the inboarding? I dont know if I'd do this on a DD but we're not talking about a DD here.


Hey Chris if you read this do you have an update to the revolving Dual Shackle? You mentioned earlier allpro was considering it?
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Old 06-15-2002, 08:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ok...Time for the newbie bashing, get your flame thrower ready..

It seems to me that if that was done wrong it would weaken the frame?

Also if you are going to put that much effort into the relocating the hangers why not inboard them at the same time? For example on chrisg's buggy it seems a simple square tube across the top of the frame would do very well to hide the spring hangers and provide more cheap flex from the inboarding? I dont know if I'd do this on a DD but we're not talking about a DD here.


Hey Chris if you read this do you have an update to the revolving Dual Shackle? You mentioned earlier allpro was considering it?
Nope no bashing this time, your questions are very good ones. Cutting as much of the frame away as I could very well be a problem if not done right. We are actually worried that during the cutting the frame would fold up. So the roll cage was welded in place to keep the frame from bending, then later the spring hanger was cut out. On my spring hangers 1/4 steel was used and very carefully welded all around. With the cage legs welded both behind and infront of the hangers the frame won't have a chance of bending.

Yes inboarding the springs will increase travel but the suspension has all the flex I want. Today I was able to test the rig out and found my springs to be a little soft. I will be putting one leaf back into the packs to stiffen them up just a little. Too much flex is just as bad as too little.

As far as revolver type shackles, All Pro will never sell such a product. Sure they help your RTI score a lot but on the trail we think they stink. It easy to make them but do you see them on compition rigs? If they worked everyone would be using them.

We do have a Johnny Joint shackle that allows the shackle to twist and these are working very well on the test rigs we have tried them on. I will be posting pictures and details about these on our web site later next week.
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Old 06-15-2002, 08:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It seems to me that if that was done wrong it would weaken the frame?
Possibly, but we're replacing the removed metal with plenty more so should be fine. Also, we each have a tube chassis that provides further rigidity thru the cage structure.

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Also if you are going to put that much effort into the relocating the hangers why not inboard them at the same time?
I really see no need to inboard as you can usually get good flex without going to all that trouble. There are also some limits to how much you want a leaf spring to flex, though doing the Johnnies like chris did will allow more spring twist. With the Toy wide track axle and 10" wheels, 4" bs, and 12.5 tires I just barely rub the frame so more flex is a bit limited by that. There is also the gas tank issue.....

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Old 06-15-2002, 10:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally posted by nightcrawler
Correct me if I'm wrong. I think you can get the rear spring hanger for $20 smackaroos each @ Front Range Off Road Fab Also I personally think its easier to go that route rather than fabricate one from the scratch.
I went this route and found out the hard way that the FROR hangers won't work with springs with a military wrap (such as All-Pro springs). Looks like I will be fabricating my own from scratch.
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Old 06-16-2002, 08:21 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by pvonburg
Ok...Time for the newbie bashing, get your flame thrower ready..

It seems to me that if that was done wrong it would weaken the frame?

Also if you are going to put that much effort into the relocating the hangers why not inboard them at the same time? For example on chrisg's buggy it seems a simple square tube across the top of the frame would do very well to hide the spring hangers and provide more cheap flex from the inboarding? I dont know if I'd do this on a DD but we're not talking about a DD here.


Hey Chris if you read this do you have an update to the revolving Dual Shackle? You mentioned earlier allpro was considering it?
very good idea, my zuk has a custom frame 29" front and rear, so rears are inboarded about 5" per side and the stock 79-88 rear springs flex great, doing a crossmember and inboarding the springs tucked up out of the way so sounds very bright!
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Old 06-16-2002, 10:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
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is that a trail pic seabass???? nice replies and a real trail ride to boot . looks like things are lookin up .
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Old 06-16-2002, 10:43 AM   #21 (permalink)
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is that a trail pic seabass???? nice replies and a real trail ride to boot . looks like things are lookin up .
that is...but from the previous owner....here is one from friday in the "box" I just didn't get any good flex pics.
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Old 06-16-2002, 12:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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If you wanna talk about inboarding as well as getting the spring hangers out of the way, someone post a pic of Chris Durham's East cost rig (not sure if his west side rig is the same)...

He just took a piece of appropriate square tubing (in this case 3.5x3.5) and drilled for his springs and then welded it on the outide of his frame. Same idea as frenching them in but EASIER! You could do the same thing on the inside of the frame and get inboarded un hang-upable springs.

Seems to work well for him

Looks pretty redneck, not like those purty frenched hangers...
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Old 06-16-2002, 01:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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JAY, wheres your wheelbase with the hanger mounted there? i was gonna use your design but go a bit further back on the frame where it starts bending upward, right where i could get the hanger to sit flat....
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Old 06-16-2002, 04:30 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Anyone got any PICS of Freching hangers with Checy's ??? and what did you do to lost lift ?
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Old 06-16-2002, 05:18 PM   #25 (permalink)
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rj, wanna have an inboarding party? you can run some shorter springs and well get hung up on nothing! missed you the other day by just a few minutes! thanks for the sticker

i was thinking of inboarding mine and running a johnny joint for the shackle hanger off the 2x3 i boxed the frame in with...betcha we can get better flex off a ~56" spring inboarded just to the inner frame rail, then a 63" chevy(which takes away your depart angle and gets hung up on the front hanger???)...s10 junk yard springs are ~56", or f150, ranger, allpro....
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