87 4-Runner gets a 22RE to 3.4 swap - auto trans - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 10-20-2007, 01:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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87 4-Runner gets a 22RE to 3.4 swap - auto trans

Here is my 87 4-Runner that I bought for my wife to haul the dogs around in and some snow/sand wheeling, the 22re that was in it was bad, so I replaced it with a good used 22re, spent a lot of money on parts trying to make it run good enough to pull a hill with 4.30 gears, automatic, and 33's, and that was never going to happen. I was about to dump about a grand on gears for this truck when the tranny ecu died leaving only second and fourth gear. I already put on the 2 inch body lift on it when I bought it because I knew it was going to get a 3.4, I just planned on the 4 cylinder lasting longer than it did. Instead of wasting money on gears I spent that money on a 1997 4-Runner engine and trans that will make the truck move great without re-gearing.



you guys can feel free to make fun of the gay bumper the p.o. put on there, I am building some real bumpers for it, putting on sliders, disk brakes etc as money allows, engine is most important right now.
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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 10-20-2007, 03:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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DAMN looking forward to this because i love my 3.4 in my 99 4runner and think it would be great for my 85 Good luck
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Old 10-20-2007, 03:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My '88 will be getting the same treatment as yours. I'm definitely going to be using the Offroad Solutions kit to make life a little easier. I look forward to your build.
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Old 10-20-2007, 05:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Never mind the bumper on the Toy, what about all those others in the background!
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Old 10-21-2007, 06:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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the bumper on the chevy weighs about 300 pounds, took a forklift to put it on, my friends call that truck "trail dog" because if the trail is too nasty for their toyota sheetmetal, I clear it out for them . The bumper on the car is bolted to the frame in 8 places and is off a cop car, we use that at my shop to push dead cars and use it for road trips.
Here are some pictures of the engine and auto trans out of the 97 4-runner, I already put the 89-95 3.0 v6 4wd oil pan on it before the pics were taken, if you cant figure out that part by yourself without pics then dont attempt this swap by yourself.




This has 124,000 miles on it, I got a good deal from a wrecking yard I used to work at, they let me take the truck to my shop and run and test the engine and pull everything myself, and this is my fourth 3.4 swap and let me tell you, its the only way to go. I washed this up and am going to do a full tune to it, plugs, timing belt, water pump, oil change etc before It goes into the new truck.
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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]

Last edited by panty dropper; 10-21-2007 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 10-21-2007, 07:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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here is some pics of the timing belt, now is the time to replace that stuff no matter what the old stuff looks like, You should do the timing belt, water pump, cam seals, crank seal, idler pulley and tensioner pulley because this is an interference engine, meaning, you lose your water pump or timing belt then your pistons hit the valves and break all of them off, then you screwed yourself because you wanted to save 150 bucks in parts . You can also see the 3.0 V6 lower thermostat/hose housing in this pic and see the old 3.4 style on the floor along with the 3.4 dipsitck which will be going away.



Here is an adapter I built today for the pivot plate, the metal adapter bolts onto the intake manifold and the red thing is the pivot plate, it holds the engine completely level and allows you to tilt it forward and backward, I have put three of these in swaps with the old chain method and it sucks so much ass to try to get this engine to sit level while marking and welding in motor mounts on a 4 cylinder frame that you cut all the old brackets off of. I used all 5 intake manifold bolts for the adapter plate, the more the better.




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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I was always under the impression that the 5VZ was a non-interference engine...
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I was always under the impression that the 5VZ was a non-interference engine...
Incorrect, it's a valve bender.
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Old 10-21-2007, 11:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So changing the t/stat housing to the one from the 3.0 will save scrounging around in the parts store for a one off oddball lower rad hose for the swap? If so, thanks for the tip, thats the first I've seen of that in the write ups I've read.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:00 AM   #10 (permalink)
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its actually non interference. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...threadid=82227
plus i have alldata here at work. its non interference.
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I was told by the toyota dealership that it was interference, maybe they were just trying to sell me more parts by scare tactics, I have mitchell at the shop (which sucks ass) and it doesnt even say, but thats fine, as a mechanic I cant put an engine in a rig not knowing if it will fail in a week, I would rather not know if it really is non interference or not, the last engine I scattered was supposedly non interference but it broke all the valves, better safe than sorry. And yes, the thermostat housing is off a 3.0, then you use the 3.0 radiator and loewer hose and it works great, no special hose. If you look at my other swap on here, I dont buy stuff for the swap, costs more money than I have
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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]

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Old 10-22-2007, 08:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I've always been told it was non-inteference as well.

My mother in law blew a timing belt in her Taco (it had never been replaced) and it didn't cause any damage. First it slipped and ran crappy, then it finally came all the way off after they kept driving it, and of course they kept trying to start it...

And its not like they don't last. Both I've replaced in my T100 had over 90k on them and still looked about as good as the new ones I put in (90k and 180k, I'm currently at 237k).

Anyway, its cheap and easy to replace, so yes now is a good time to do it.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panty dropper View Post
And yes, the thermostat housing is off a 3.0, then you use the 3.0 radiator and loewer hose and it works great, no special hose. If you look at my other swap on here, I dont buy stuff for the swap, costs more money than I have
Other swap thread is here: /forum/toyota-truck-4runner/512033-another-3-4-swap-89-99-plus-auto-t-100-a.html
in case anyone else is searching for it. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Pretty close to what I have in mind for my soon to be runner. Keep up the good work.
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I was told by the toyota dealership that it was interference, maybe they were just trying to sell me more parts by scare tactics.........
Sounds more like an inexperienced parts guy at a dealer

I used to work the parts counter for a Toyota Dealer in Vancouver. As far as I've learned, been told, read or experienced any Toyota with a T-Belt is not an Interferance engine. Really good design trait IMO.

I plan on this swap as well, then Supercharger......

I really like that crane plate you built, must be the cat's ass for lining up the engine to get the mounts in the right place. You got specs on how you built that ??
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Toyota.....what a feeling.

I try to only use genuine toyota parts, aftermarket parts suck. Here is my Toyota Oil filter, spark plugs and 95+ T-100 3.4 oil dipstick and tube and block adapter, as long as your block is 99 or older it should have a spot on the side for the dipstick adapter, if not you can drill out the hole. Also you need to run the dual electrode spark plugs that toyota tells you to run by the big sticker on the front of the engine, I had single electrode plugs in my truck for a while and it was setting misfire codes, the spark was jumping to the head instead of the other electrode that it was looking for, and the only place I have found out of 6 local parts sellers is straight from toyota, and factory denso plugs are less than NGK plugs from napa.

And since we replace the contacts in at least two toyota starters in the shop every week I decided to replace these while the engine was out, good thing I did, they were almost gone, very cheap and easy to do without the engine in the truck.

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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Here is my pathetic excuse for exhaust, it looks like crap but will do the job, I am too poor to afford the ORS pipe which looks to be made out of too large of tube anyways, it costed me about 6 dollars and a few hours of labor and a 2 litre of mt dew. Now for a tricky part and some people on here will call bull but the headpipe on this engine and the whole factory exhaust is 1 7/8 inch pipe. Now there is a reason for that, I found out the hard way. On my 89 pickup 3.4 swap we made the head pipes off the engine out of 2 inch pipe then necked it up to 2 1/2 inches all the way back and that is causing not enough back pressure and also causing knock sensor codes, I replaced three Ecms (800 each remans), two sets of knock sensors and wires (350 each time, thats my shop cost on parts) and couldnt fix the problem, I finally let my college ASE course teacher use it as a case study and came down to the conclusion that the sensors arent seeing enough knock or "detonation" due to the lack of back pressure and causing the ecm to not see the sensors to know they are working, hence causing the problems, thats why it pops codes upon startup, not when driving, its doing its system checks and not seeing them. So in short, bigger pipe is not better, and leave the cat converter in when you go to obd2 computer, it needs to see the exhaust being cleaned at the second sensor or it will think the truck is running really rich and lean it way out and maybe fry a piston and cause runnability problems.




And for motor mounts you need the block mounts off an 89-95 3.Slow, I am going to try the frame mounts from Ors.


And for the Air conditioning I cant do like the 89 and use old parts to make it work, this will involve a bit more, I am keeping the 97 Runner compressor and bracket and will just have new hoses made to match the 87 runner evap core.

And I am going to run the inchworm auto taco to gear drive case adapter on this with a gear driven case, so now is the best time to strip the transfer case and go through it and re-seal it.
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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 11-07-2007, 10:15 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Updates?
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I will update as soon as I get somewhere, the intake and valve covers should be back from the powdercoaters soon, and I havent decided if I am still going to run the gear driven case or the one off the T-100 tranny I bought for parts last week, need to get all three trannys (the 87 auto, the 97 runner auto, and the 97 T-100 auto) all out and side by side and see if I can get away without having to make new crossmembers and without having to buy new driveshafts cause I am poor as hell right now.
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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 11-15-2007, 11:42 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Any idea on what the 3.4 weighs?
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I dont have an exact figure, but last week when it was sitting on the floor and fell over and I had to catch it, its pretty heavy. I would guess somewhere in the 5-800 pound range, I can almost pick up the core block with crank/rods and pistons in it by myself and I am not a big guy, and the heads I would guess at about 40-50 each, upper intake and valve covers weigh 25 pounds, add in the oil pump, pan, timing, water pump etc etc and you get an idea. Its not overly heavy, not much more than a 3.slow, but it makes up for it in power, I would use it in anything I was building, I would just move it back/down etc to keep center of gravity and just work around the weight if the weight became an issue on a project because I like the 3.4 so much more than the older 4 cylinder or v6.
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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 11-19-2007, 12:26 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Got the old 4 cylinder engine and tranny out tonight, now to chop off the old motor mounts and prep the frame for the new ones.

Anybody need an older automatic???

Yummy

SAY GOODBYE TO MY LITTLE FRIEND


The 22re minus the intake will be for sale, if anybody needs one PM me
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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 11-23-2007, 02:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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nothing like a good ol day after thanksgiving junkyard trip. Went out today and chopped the 3.0 frame mounts off the junkyard 89 4-runner, I also got the torsion bars out of the 3.0 runner since the old 4 cylinder torsion bars are smaller in diameter and will probably not like the new engine. I have the ORS frame mounts but didnt like them very much and wont be using them, the Toyota mounts will be easier for me to place in the right spot on the frame to make everything line up better.
Here are some pics of the junkyard mounts in the truck to help other people to know where they are supposed to be mounted and how they sit,





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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Its in the hole......The engine that is, I got it in last night, got some pics today. I used the air chisel to cut off the old mounts, worked better than anything else I have ever used, then used the grinder to prep the frame for the new mounts


Here are the stock 3.0 frame mounts after cutting the old frame chunks off of them, a lot of work but worth every second in the end, they fit awesome.





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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Here is the exhaust, fits pretty nice, not bad for a guess, the red paint is all spots that I am going to "massage" a little for more clearance just to be sure, nothing is actaully touching, but I am a little crazy about small things, its what I do


Also, one more thing, the 4 cylinder anti sway bar is shaped different than the v6 sway bar, it hits the tranny pan, I can either lower this one with some brackets or get a v6 one, probably just going to get the right one from the junkyard.

Also found out that you cant use the T-100 transfer case with anything but a T-100 trans, so I used the gear driven case with the Inchworm adapter (yes I know advanced adapters makes them for inchworm, but Jim kicks ass, super nice helpful guy, I would rather give him my money, he deserves it) and I am going to get the skys transfer case disk brake for the back of this case, I used the stock crossmember and had to cut a slit in it, I can use two of the stock mounting holes in the next spot forward on the mount (if that makes any sense) and will have to figure out where the two others will bolt up unless I make a new crossmember.



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89 yota/3.4 swap/auto/33 stt's
87 runner/3.4 swap/33 toyos
78 chev k30/400/th400/44 swampers
77 chev k20/400/th350/36's, no lift, lincoln locked front and rear
79 blazer-getting piratized as we speak
84 runner/9 inches taller,3.4/auto/crawler etc soon
[url]http://www.myspace.com/slater442w30[/url]
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