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Old 01-17-2008, 12:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Post 22r/20r hybrid oil pressure

I have this motor with barely 600 miles on it but I can't seem to keep the front mail seal in this thing! I know the rear main seal is leaking too but I haven't made my way back to it yet but I have tried to replace the front main/crankshaft seal on it 4 times. Everytime I replace it it walks out and gets tore up and leaks really bad.
It has 2 breathers and a pvc valve on top of the motor so I know it is not building up to much pressure but all I can figure now is it has to much oil pressure. When I first start it up it has about 70 psi and if I rev it up to 3K or more I can get into the 80's which is about the time I see oil flying over my fenders. Should I be getting that high of oil pressure or could that be what my problem is or do you have any ideas? Please help, I have installed 4 main seals in 2 weeks and I am getting fed up with this thing!
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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get a different timing cover. the current one must have too big of a hole for the seal to fit in. make sure its in fact the correct seal for the 22R. my hybrid runs great there are no problems like this.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Does your crank have wear marks around the seals?

I can't imagine a engine with so much oil pressure that it's blowing out those seals.

Have any other indications of internal pressure - like pushing the dip-stick out, oil around the breathers, - stuff that indicates blow-by?
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Old 01-17-2008, 04:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I installed a sleeve on it a week ago, or 2 seals ago, and none of the seals have just slipped right into place and I have installed 3 different brands as well because that is what I thought also.

Blow-by- YES, there is blow by. I have two breathers on it and a pcv valve and you can see wet oil where the breathers are.

Somebody mentioned that the spring in the oil pump could be bad... any thoughts?

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Old 01-17-2008, 04:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have a fairly fresh 22r and run in the mid 70's for pressure when cold.
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The spring is part of the relief valve.Found under the hex head on the right side of the engine, behind the oil pump.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Probably a stupid response but I remember seeing that you need to have the oil journals from the head to the block machined to line up. I considered the hybrid thing and this was one of the things you had to do to make it work. You probably already knew this and have made the appropriate changes.
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Old 01-18-2008, 05:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahfecks View Post
Probably a stupid response but I remember seeing that you need to have the oil journals from the head to the block machined to line up. I considered the hybrid thing and this was one of the things you had to do to make it work. You probably already knew this and have made the appropriate changes.
I think that's only if you're using an 85+ block, because in that case the head requires so much machining that the oil passage is gone?? Anyway, this step wasn't necessary on my classic 79-84 hybrid.

Big Pip, when you did the rebuild, did you have block decked flat without the timing cover bolted on? That's a no-no, and then if you install the timing cover after the head it can end up lower than its supposed to be (if it goes on at all).
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I bought the motor already rebuilt and I was not told if the block was decked or not. I don't think it was because there was not a problem with the seal until recently when I changed the timing cover gasket. there was a small leak out of the cover where someone put too much silicone in one of the corners and it didn't sit on straight. But ever since I did the timing cover gasket and repair sleeve it has kicked the seals off anytime I rev it upover 3k when it has over 80 psi for oil pressure.

I have noticed that with the repair sleeve on the seal sits half on the sleeve and half off the sleeve so my next approach is to push the seal on further than just flush as I have done every other time before. I am also going to clean the piston and cylinder on the oil pump because it took a little work to move it when I had it all apart.
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I ended up taking the spring and piston out but it wasn't that easy. The spring did not want to come out so after a little beating and pushing from behind it finally came out. I polished the piston with some fine emery cloth and did the same with the cyl and put it all back together. Put the oil pump back on the motor and fired it up. Oil pressure finally dropped from 70 p.s.i. at idle to 40 p.s.i. and when I reved it up it would get up to about 70 p.s.i. much better than the 80+ p.s.i. and this time it did not shoot out the front seal(not yet anyways) While i was letting it sit there and run everything was nice and dry until about 10 minutes of running at idle. It started to leak where the timing cover meets the head and now I am puzzed how to stop that from leaking without replacing the head gasket... JB Weld maybe...
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've never had to stop a leak where you're describing at the head/block/cover spot, but I did R&R my timing cover once without replacing the head gasket. It didn't leak.

I fixed oil pan gasket leaks a couple times by duct taping a shop vac to the oil fill hole and turn it on, spray brake cleaner on the leak spot to clean it, then apply some fipg. Give it a moment after applying fipg before turning the shop vac off. Could be worth a try on your leak. The trick is knowing exactly where the leak is.
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Old 01-26-2008, 08:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I went to inspest the area today and noticed a crack at the top of the timing cover. It is in the area where the bolt comes down from the head/under the dist. drive gear. So now I may be looking at JB Weld!

I hate that I have been so many problems with this thing but at the same time I hate to think about working on a front wheel drive POS!
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