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Old 03-20-2009, 01:42 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Bringing this back instead of starting a new post...

I'm wondering what people are doing about leafs. I don't have mine in front of me, but I think its the standard 2wd 3 leaf/overload pack. I plan to run a traction bar on mine, and am thinking of removing the overload. I normally drive unloaded for the most part but sometimes carry a bed full of gear, so I don't want it super soft. I have a few spare leafs and was wondering if people played with their packs and found something that works well. Ya i know, make one and try it, but im trying to start out with a good proven baseline that people like. I'm planning on taking the pack apart and cleaning it up, painting the leafs etc, so I might as well put the right leafs back that will work well.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:14 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Just FYI,

These are $90 new (each) at JCWhitney and you can get free shipping


http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...27235810263066
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:19 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by christyle View Post
Bringing this back instead of starting a new post...

I'm wondering what people are doing about leafs. I don't have mine in front of me, but I think its the standard 2wd 3 leaf/overload pack. I plan to run a traction bar on mine, and am thinking of removing the overload. I normally drive unloaded for the most part but sometimes carry a bed full of gear, so I don't want it super soft. I have a few spare leafs and was wondering if people played with their packs and found something that works well. Ya i know, make one and try it, but im trying to start out with a good proven baseline that people like. I'm planning on taking the pack apart and cleaning it up, painting the leafs etc, so I might as well put the right leafs back that will work well.
Anybody....
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:05 PM   #29 (permalink)
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My pile, f150 rears up front with 63" cheys in the back.
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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sorry to highjack but in other threads, it sounds like axle wrap is worse with the long side forward which is what I want to do to be able to keep a good departure angle(the main reason I'm not running chevys).....is it really bad enough that a traction bar is needed or can I hold off on it till later.....
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:56 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I've heard varying reports...

I think a lot of it depends on your engine/transmission/transfercase combo as well. You can buy longer spring perches from places like Davez to help combat the spring wrap

I'd say give it a shot and see what happens, a traction bar can be added afterwards relatively easily if it is needed
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Old 04-02-2009, 12:01 AM   #32 (permalink)
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sorry to highjack but in other threads, it sounds like axle wrap is worse with the long side forward which is what I want to do to be able to keep a good departure angle(the main reason I'm not running chevys).....is it really bad enough that a traction bar is needed or can I hold off on it till later.....
If your even a little hard on them you'll kill them on one ride without a traction bar.
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:54 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I would put in a traction bar. My first thread(under user name T1tndra) i ran the F150's turned around. I didnt have a traction bar got some good axle wrap and bent both springs.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:14 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I've been runnin' reversed F150s for about 4 months now, and they seem to work great. I'm runnin' the 4 leaf pack with overload, so that might make a difference in axle wrap. I did move the leaf clamps to the side closest to the t-case.

I don't full-throttle often, if at all, so that might make a difference in axle wrap. My biggest complaint is that runnin' reversed has caused me to hang up on occasion on my frame mounts due to moving them forward 11.5" from the stock hanger. I think I might try to french them in at some time. Dunno.

And Mike Honcho, do you think they were torn up because you only ran a 3-leaf setup? Those look a lot like Chevy's for some reason.

Here's a pic my crap with some F150 droop...
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:03 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I could of been from just having 3 leafs only. But a bunch had to do with the added wrap from running them backwards as well as a heavy right foot.

I liked them and im going to use them again on my new rig.
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:24 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I just picked up a set of f150 springs off a 90 4x4 for free, they are in pretty god condition but could use new bushings.

What I am wondering is where can I find spring hangers and a u-bolt kit for these since they are 3" wide?
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:44 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Use Toy ubolts (like a TG flip kit). Drill your own ubolt plates out of 3/8" for the wider spring.
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:52 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Use Toy ubolts (like a TG flip kit). Drill your own ubolt plates out of 3/8" for the wider spring.
That is what I was thinking. Should I find some 3" wide perches or will the stock ones work fine?
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:22 PM   #39 (permalink)
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springs

also check into exploader rear leafs. Just another alternative. I ran them for a while they were ok.
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:46 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I run the F150's with frenched hangers. I like them a lot they are a bit soft with all my camping gear in the back, but for a light trail run they work very well.

If I didn't have them I would go with something aftermarket or a link system. The Chevy's hang WAY too far out the back for my taste...
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:54 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Its looking like im going to have to notch my spring pads to get my u bolt flip kit to fit, so I think you'll be fine. I'd just look for some 2 wheel drives tho...im liking how my setup is turning out but I need an anti-wrap leaf and some others to stiffen it up a lil, its soft seeming even for my bobbed bed truck.
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:56 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Got my f150 swap all done and tested it out at the Hammers.

Specs:
2wd springs flipped around, mid length leaf added
new hangers front/rear
5" shackles (need work done still, bracing, beefing, etc)
wheelbase stretched ~3" to 107"
12" fox 2.0 resis mounted with 7" bump travel

Pics:

















The setup works great, very happy with them. No axle wrap issues, but im still building a traction bar. Spring rate is good with the added leaf. I want to get a longer shackle, but dont want to move my rear hanger, its already barely higher than i wanted...
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:32 PM   #43 (permalink)
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f150 rears $11.50 each at pull-a-part
added a j-10 jeep leaf for a bit more clearance
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Old 12-29-2009, 05:42 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Got my f150 swap all done and tested it out at the Hammers.

Specs:
2wd springs flipped around, mid length leaf added
new hangers front/rear
5" shackles (need work done still, bracing, beefing, etc)
wheelbase stretched ~3" to 107"
12" fox 2.0 resis mounted with 7" bump travel

The setup works great, very happy with them. No axle wrap issues, but im still building a traction bar. Spring rate is good with the added leaf. I want to get a longer shackle, but dont want to move my rear hanger, its already barely higher than i wanted...
Christyle,
My truck is just like yours w/ the bobbed bed but I can't move the rear hangers further rear because I chopped the frame as well.

do you remember how far you relocated to front/rear hangers??? With your measurements I'll know exactly where to mount my f150 rear leafs on the rear of my truck.

I'm looking for 3-4' lift with this swap, is it possible?
I'm not looking to extend the wheelbase, so I'm thinking to move the front hanger forward some.

let me know

thanks
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:40 AM   #45 (permalink)
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My rear hangers are maybe 2-3" and the front were like 6 i wanna say. I'll have to measure tonight when i get home. I originally had it set up with the stock pack minus the overload and it was ok, but a little soft. I added the overload back in and then an additional middle length f-150 spring and i love the spring rate. I only have a 5" shackle though... The rear is a little higher than my 3" front TG SAS springs, which came out to more like 4" lift. Id say I got 3-4" out of them, ya. Id rather be running a longer shackle but oh well. Id def need a 14" shock if I had done that. The wheelbase stretch was definitely worth it. So much better now...
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:09 PM   #46 (permalink)
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When you move the front hangers do you measure straight from eye to eye or along the frame rail or something?
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Old 12-29-2009, 09:06 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I saw what others did on here as a reference and then just kinda did it myself... Tack it on, try it out, if angles dont look good, then do it again. Ideally eye-eye should be the way to measure i think.
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:16 AM   #48 (permalink)
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My rear hangers are maybe 2-3" and the front were like 6 i wanna say.
rear hanger moved 2-3" towards the rear? and the front about 6" towards the front of truck? and this is with the long side of the leaf forward right?

if correct, theoretically, with the long side of the leaf forward i can move the front mount to ~11" forward and it should work w/o moving the rear hanger and the wheel base also should be back to norm.

does that sound right....?

I know its all trial and error but this would be a starting point.
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:30 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Your thought process is correct, but im unsure of the measurements... I wanted to stretch my wheelbase and i didnt want my front hanger hanging down off the frame rail. I moved my rear shackle mount back some to keep from having to push my front hanger towards the front too far, and to stretch my wheelbase. I think there were other posts where people talked about keeping the same wheelbase somewhere...

Sorry i didnt get measurments, I'm busy getting packed and ready to leave for JV tomorrow
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:59 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead... but figured it would be better then starting another post...

I've read through the faq and many other posts to figure what route I wanted to go...

I picked up some f150 rear springs today... 3 leaf with overloads....

Ive got a few questions about this setup...

Currently, I have them sitting under the truck long side towards the rear... facing them the other direction makes it appear that its going to need a HUGE shackle unless I french the front mount into the frame which I dont really want to do... So with running the spring mount just under the frame... how long of a shackle is needed to get the driveline angle correct without shims?

Is there a downfall to running them the way they where designed to be ran?

I rebuilt the back half of the frame on my truck due to rot and I bobbed it off at the stock shackle mount length (so basically 1' or so off...) and with the springs mounted in the stock orientation... and keeping the stock wheelbase... it looks like the shackle mounts will land right at the stock location (or where they would be...) front hangers look like they will land right at the back of the rail before it angles up... so several inches forward...

I'm just in a bit of a debate on what to do... I'm also currently IFS (will be doing sas next year... want to wheel it this season on ifs) and I'm not running any lift on the front... so if I run them reversed with proper length shackles... how funky is it going to look (height of rear based on stock height of front)??

With all that said... should I reverse them or run them longside towards the rear?

Thanks for any info guys
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