Blueberry Krunch

[Mr Stubs]

I ran the suspension down to full droop. After measuring I should have 11" of travel from full compression to full droop at the spring to frame.

[Mr Stubs]

Also got the bump stops remounted and started on the tank holders.


I priced out bumps and my wallet started to squirm, so I just recycled.


(Angled just like you suggested Lowtorious)

[Mr Stubs]

I am close to finishing the pane tank holders. The only thing that I really need to do now is mount the tank clamps. I cant do that right now since will have problems setting the body on if I do.












I made these pins to help hold the tanks in place. My reasoning for them is that they are used on forklifts to keep the expansion safety valve up and the pick up tube down. It will also be a back up holder if the tank clamp comes undone during a rollover.







I also made these bump stop strike plates. I like this type because it puts a double nut on the U-bolts. This will keep the nuts from working loose over time.

[Kiwipushrod]

Hey Stub's,

I've been watching the Krunch build since the beginning, I like everything You've done soo far, Nice skills/work.

I have a question about the double nut plate setup for the axle ubolts, it will keep the nut's from loosening.

But is'nt the reason for them loosening, the fact that the ubolts themselves actually stretch and not the nuts rotateing on the threads. So did'nt You just make it harder to tighten them?

Kiwi

Almost forgot,

[Booger Weldz]

i think he did that because the leaf spring centerpin will chew up his bumpstop as it hits it over and over...i would hve just cut the centerpin off flush with the top of the Ublt plate so he doesnt have to deal with what you described above??

[Booger Weldz]

i shoulda trimmed the body mount like you did for the shackle mount clearance...good thinkin! mines a bit steep, as i got greatly moving the axle forward, but im trying to hold up the 3.0 v6 and some fat girls...

[Mr Stubs]

Originally Posted by Booger Weldz

i think he did that because the leaf spring centerpin will chew up his bumpstop as it hits it over and over...i would hve just cut the centerpin off flush with the top of the Ublt plate so he doesnt have to deal with what you described above??

I want to keep the center pin long since I will be experimenting with the rear leaf pack. I dont want to go and buy new pins every time I want to add a leaf or cut them if I take a leaf out.

[Mr Stubs]

Originally Posted by Kiwipushrod

I have a question about the double nut plate setup for the axle ubolts, it will keep the nut's from loosening.

But is'nt the reason for them loosening, the fact that the ubolts themselves actually stretch and not the nuts rotateing on the threads. So did'nt You just make it harder to tighten them?

Did I make it harder to tighten? Yes.
Do they stretch and loosen? Yes.

I think that once the u-bolt has stretched a little it gives room for the nut to start to work loose. Since the nut has another on top of it with the plate between (plate can not turn with the nut) it is unable to work loose. It will only let the spring get as sloppy as the stretched u-bolt will let it and not the combination of the bolt and the nut.

[Booger Weldz]

Originally Posted by Mr Stubs

Did I make it harder to tighten? Yes.
Do they stretch and loosen? Yes.

I think that once the u-bolt has stretched a little it gives room for the nut to start to work loose. Since the nut has another on top of it with the plate between (plate can not turn with the nut) it is unable to work loose. It will only let the spring get as sloppy as the stretched u-bolt will let it and not the combination of the bolt and the nut.

good point

[Mr Stubs]

I awoke to snow on the ground today so the body isn't going back on today.

I decided to start on my next headache. I bought this front axle a while ago ( before the prices on used stuff got real good ) along with the rear that I am using. The more I look at it the more I wonder why the hell did I buy this thing. It is loaded with great parts but the fab work is a bit to be desired.

Hydro assist ram angle is way out of line and mounts are, well,










Knuckle gussets. Better to clearance the felt and ring than the gusset itself.







I need to repair the pass side perch. The spring pin hole has been elongated.






Now can anyone see to two problems here?

[Kiwipushrod]

The caliper mounting bolt is bent and hitting the rotor?

Are we going to be graded on a curve?

Kiwi

[Mr Stubs]

Originally Posted by Kiwipushrod

The caliper mounting bolt is bent and hitting the rotor?

Are we going to be graded on a curve?

Kiwi

"F" is for FAIL.

Next...... or do you want to try again?

[Kiwipushrod]

No Mr Stubs,........Can You call on dopeass, He knows the answer.

Kiwi

[billybob13]

the problem i see is toyota brakes on a semi floater. need a ff or chevy calipers.

[Mr Stubs]

Originally Posted by billybob13

the problem i see is toyota brakes on a semi floater. need a ff or chevy calipers.

This problem is on a front axle...

[billybob13]

Originally Posted by Mr Stubs

This problem is on a front axle...

it's all that crack i smoked for lunch today

[Mr Stubs]

Originally Posted by Kiwipushrod

No Mr Stubs,........Can You call on dopeass, He knows the answer.

Kiwi

Originally Posted by Mr Stubs

"F" is for FAIL.

Next...... or do you want to try again?

The front is set up in a old school IFS hub conversion that doesn't use the Sky spacers http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=127
This is a messed up way of doing it because the rotor and caliper can not be taken off until the wheel bearing is removed. The guy that I bought it from must had been drunk with no patience. The caliper pad was installed backwards (steel to the rotor) and ran that way. Wheeling must had been more important the next day than disassembling the wheel unit and switching around the pad.

[YOUNG BEN]

looks like the caliper is on the wrong side of the mounting ears on the knuckle and the rotor is spaced away from the hub body

[jackson58]

i used FJ rotors with 4 piston calipers with the ifs hub swap. had to use the stock ifs rotor to mark FJ rotors where to drill for mounting to the ifs hub. then tapped calipers with 1/2'' fine thread tap,drilled out knuckle where bolts went through to caliper. you have to also mill a little material off of calipers tabs so they don't rub on rotor. also make sure to use grade 5 bolts because they have a higher shear strength than grade 8.

[Mr Stubs]

So I have sent a bunch of time cleaning and disassembling this front axle. What a mess.

I lowered the spring perches as much as I could. 1/4" is all that is possible.








Then I had a fellow Pirate member suggest lengthening the perches to combat axle wrap.













Then I started on the 5th stud mod. Bobby Long style.

This is the sweet spot to drill, dead center of the two casting lines.




I had a lot of drive line bolts laying around and they turned out to be the perfect length with a piece of 1/4". Smoothed out the top of the knuckle for a good flat fit.

[Maroon Monsoon]

I love the idea of lowering the spring perches. I think the front of my truck sits a bit high and it's nice to have that as an extra option in mind. I just might give that a try one of these days... 1/4 inch isn't much though, but definately worth it if the axle is already off the truck for something esle.


once again, great work on this rig.

[Erick561]

I have a question for your Post #12; how high did you raise the steering box with this mod?

[Mr Stubs]

I dont remember exact measurements, but the lowest bolt hole was drilled almost to the top of the frame.

[Mr Stubs]

So I have spent a bunch of time cleaning parts, painting parts, deciding what parts to buy, ext, for the last few days.


I cut off and replaced the shock mounts and capped the bent steering stops.









I had a 4 cyl front diff with a Lock-Rite and 4:11s in the front and a welded V-6 diff with 4:11s in the back. I didnt want to kill the rear output shaft so I started to check out prices on R&P. I have set up gears before so I figured it would not be to much trouble again. But typical of me, this followed me home from a Craigslist add. Both have Detroits and 5:29s with Yukon gears. The set up paint is still fresh.






This was thrown into the mix as well!!!! New 30 spline with the 40*
Now that I have more than one pair for this truck do you think I can double them up for extra strength?

[Mr Stubs]

Welded the 5th stud nut to the inside to the knuckle and tack welded the top steering knuckle studs (along with red lock tight)

I have had studs work loose before even with red lock tight. I think that studs break because they work loose first.