My '82 First Gen Project: The Dirt Squirrel

[the_white_shadow]

A little face lift fo the dirt squirrel. Whats the PBB think? I might redo the top of the fenders to follow the lower body line and continue it onto the door. The hood and top of the cab is staying flat black. Im also repainting the grille and headlight bezels black. They are faded and have some previous overspray on them.





My"helper"

[Electric-Mayhem]

Very nice. Is that blue a Rattle can color? If so which one? I've been thinking about doing mine in a Blue color that Krylon makes and that looks similar to it. I like the split between the flat black and the blue, definitely adds some style to it.

[wentz912]

Random question involving your rear disc conversion as far as the whole caliper bracket thing goes.

Did you flatten the back side of the axle flat all the way down, aka there is zero gap between the "front" of the rotor and the back of the flange now?

If so, can you get me a number on the thickness of the nuts you used to space your brackets over? Trying to see if I can use Davez brackets and have my rotors on the outside of the flange....

[the_white_shadow]

Originally Posted by Electric-Mayhem

Very nice. Is that blue a Rattle can color? If so which one? I've been thinking about doing mine in a Blue color that Krylon makes and that looks similar to it. I like the split between the flat black and the blue, definitely adds some style to it.

Thanks. Yeah its the Krylon Rust Tough rattle can blue. I wanted a flat blue, but couldnt find one so I just went with it.

Originally Posted by wentz912

Random question involving your rear disc conversion as far as the whole caliper bracket thing goes.

Did you flatten the back side of the axle flat all the way down, aka there is zero gap between the "front" of the rotor and the back of the flange now?

I didnt take any thickness off of the axle flange (at least not much). I had to grind down the inner portion of the backside of the flange so the rotor "hat" would sit flush with the back of the flange.

This pic shows what I am talking about. The thickness of the flange is close to stock after grinding. Ideally I would have chunked the flange in a lathe and turn it down some, but the grinder is all i had. I tried to take no material off of the thickness of the flange.



If so, can you get me a number on the thickness of the nuts you used to space your brackets over? Trying to see if I can use Davez brackets and have my rotors on the outside of the flange....

Ill get you a thickness of the nut I used and hopefully it will help you out. It cant be no more than 3/8" but I will get an exact measurment.

[wentz912]

That will be much appreciated, and even though it looks like it from the pictures, did you caliper ended up centered on the rotor perfectly or is it a hair off to one side or the other?

[Full Throttle ORC]

I like it. I, personally, would continue down the side like this though:



Just my .02

[confederate muscle]

the dirt smurf

[the_white_shadow]

Anyone know what aftermarket wheel stud will work in place of the stock IFS wheel stud?

I found some ARP wheek studs at Summit but they are $30 for a set of 5, which means I have to buy 3 sets.

They are from a Lexus IS300 and have the same knurl length/diameter as the stock studs, but are about 1" longer.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7715/

Anyone know of any others before I drop a hundo on some wheel studs?

[Full Throttle ORC]

Don't see why they wouldn't. They're just a fuzz longer. Same thread pitch. Which is the 12mmx1.50

EDIT: Any will work, as long as it's the 12mmx1.5 and long enough.

[the_white_shadow]

I need more than an fuzz. I think they are about an 1" longer.

[scottapher]

get that pile down to K2 this weekend

[Full Throttle ORC]

Originally Posted by the_white_shadow

I need more than an fuzz. I think they are about an 1" longer.

About that. Your studs should be about 1.75", and the Lexus studs are a shade over 2.5". You could even run the wheel studs from the rear of an 02-03 Matrix. Those are a touch under 2.25"

[the_white_shadow]

Originally Posted by Full Throttle ORC

About that. Your studs should be about 1.75", and the Lexus studs are a shade over 2.5". You could even run the wheel studs from the rear of an 02-03 Matrix. Those are a touch under 2.25"

3/4" should be perfect.

[Okiyota]

Originally Posted by Full Throttle ORC

I like it. I, personally, would continue down the side like this though:



Just my .02

I was going to say the same thing, but my photoshop skills are non-existent.

Looks way better like that, take the blue all the way around the top of the bed/tailgate.

[the_white_shadow]

Welp. I finally finished the paint job on the other side and also put the blue on the top railing of the bed as mentioned above. I like it alot. Looks good from 10ft, but who cares right? its just going to get scratched and dented anyways.

I went to Muddy Gras in Huntsvegas two weekends ago and got the squirrel a little dirty, but not a bad a previous years. i only took out my rearview mirror and my starter.

Pics:
All loaded up and ready to roll.


A little car crushing (my Brother-in-law posing):


A buddy's Chevy 4-linked on Airbags and 44s took quite a beating, but always breaks. He needs rocks and to chuck the D60:
Blew a bead and broke off his Hydro in the big mud pit and had to be escorted out the next day. Did I mention he drove this rig 6 hours to get there?




Some random trucks:

This guy has like 12" coil spring spacers on his front links. Belongs in the "ghetto fab" thread:


Which resulted in this:


This dodge was a BEAST:

[the_white_shadow]

I also picked up these bad boys to relace my front wheel studs. Hope they work. I still need to put them in.

[Thunderpig05]

When you ran those hoses to to rad in the bed, did you run hard lines along the frame rail or is it soft hose the whole way back? I am doing the same and want to see how you pulled it off.

[the_white_shadow]

Originally Posted by Thunderpig05

When you ran those hoses to to rad in the bed, did you run hard lines along the frame rail or is it soft hose the whole way back? I am doing the same and want to see how you pulled it off.

They are 1.5" EMT hard lines under the cab and connected with flexible radiator hose and rubber sprayer hose. Double hose-clamped w/ no leaks yet.

[Thunderpig05]

Ok grant me this one stupid question.... what is emt?

[the_white_shadow]

Originally Posted by Thunderpig05

Ok grant me this one stupid question.... what is emt?

I got it at lowes for about $10 for a 10ft stick of it. Its just thin walled galvanized tubing.

[abrogate]

Electrical Metallic Tubing. Its a type of conduit.

[the_white_shadow]

Small update.

Started making a set of rectangular tube rock sliders.

Specs:

2x4, .120 wall rectangular tube slider
2x2, .188 wall square tube legs
4x4, .188 square frame plates
.188 gussets.

Pics: The welds dont look as bad as they appear. Im still perfecting the art of making the weld look pretty. I still have to finish weld the passenger side slider and then all thats left is to weld them to the frame. Rear bumper and body protection is next on the list.

[the_white_shadow]

Question for all: Since I am running full hydro, can I cut my steering stops off to gain a little more turning radius and just let the ram do the limiting? Will I do any damage to the longs if I do this?

Specs:

6" stroke, single-ended Surplus Center ram

[scottapher]

I doubt you will do any damage to the longs.

And if your ram is positioned correctly, using the ram to limit your steering travel will save your knuckle studs...

[Boomtacoma01]

Great progress pics Alex. How did the squirrel do this weekend at Hidden Falls? Thanks for posting some chubby pics of me working on my truck at Jambo